This channel is not really geared at a specific topic, as of right now. I may decide to change that one day but for now I'm really only posting videos for myself and if someone else can get something from it great. I enjoy many things from woodworking to having fun offload in my jeep, to camping, guns, rock climbing, my 12V Ram, stuff like that... Man stuff so you'll likely see posts in those area. If you happen to stumble on my channel and want to see/know/learn something, let me know and if I can help I will.
Very cool! Couple of suggestions...for axle lubrication, seat the ends on some oiled wool felt. An idea for water control ...bolt with rubber washer and nut for fine tuning.
Unfortunately, there aren't any adjustments that I remember. If you feel it's "tight" you can try filling it with a lighter weight oil. The only other thing I can think of that would cause it to feel tight is some inconsistencies in the gear teeth themselves or not the best fitting bearing races (the holes/pockets that are holding your shafting in place). Hope that helps and good luck!
30:22. Amusing. I am playing a Dungeons and Dragons game. My character is definitely an angry dude. He had to improvise an ignition source in combat, so he ruined one of the edges of his longsword with a flint in order to ignite a fuel-soaked harpy. He's now in a blacksmith's shop and had commandeered the smith's water grindstone treadle. I put a link to this video in our group's chat at the 25:13 mark. I then smiled when I got to 30:22. Thanks for the upload!
Hi Matt, hope you're enjoying the videos that are up. Here's the short version lol... Since my last video I have retired from the Navy, lived in Indiana for about 4 year while preparing to buy remote land and build a future. I learned a ton which will help me on my journey and ever fully restored a bulldozer and a crawler loader/backhoe. Last summer I bought myself a new 20' shipping container, packed up all my stuff and moved to the land I bought in NW Montana which is a pretty remote 40 acres in the cabinet mountains deep in the Kootenai National Forest. II was able to get the road into the land cleared, set up camp and build the foundation of a small 16'x28' stick built cabin. Unfortunately the snow started to fall and II had to make the decision to leave for the winter or risk getting trapped on the mountain. Right now I am living and working in Eastern WA and will be headed back to continue the build in about 3 weeks. Currently finishing up a 1/12 scale model of the cabin to maximize the efficiency of my short build seasons. Should have the cabin done by the end of the summer/fall and wiill spend the winter planning and logging for a larger timber frame barn followed by the main house which will be a mixture of timber frame, log and stone construction. I am taking photos along the way but not filming simply because it would take too much time away from an already short season and I want to ensure I get finished up and moved in before winter. This is one of those places where if you are not set up and prepared for winter, it could literally mean your life. I will likely get the channel going once I get to a point where time is not such a big factor and I can slow down a bit but not until then.
Absolutely LOVE the restoration of that treadle Stone. I have a very old treatle stone that works but I do want to completely restore it and fix it up. Images of yours absolutely gave me thoughts and goals because mine does not have some of the parts that are on yours. I have had to fabricate a new rod for one pedal because it only came with one. And then also where the rods attached to the axis of wheel basically - I have had to basically fabricate to fix not only the connection for the rod but also where it connects to the center access of the Stone. Some of these parts I can tell has been repaired at one point with some decently solid welds. Thank you so much for sharing this video. It definitely gives me a goal to reach for with this treadle Stone. I love the thing. My ex gave me the treadle Stone - with an extra wheel that is shaped a little funny - because I admired it when we go to family get togethers at his grandmother's house. They used to have sheep and goats and definitely did things by hand they had all sorts of hand tools not electric shearers. I always admired it so at the auction he bought it so I could have it. And I also have my grandfather's rotary manual mower that I want to restore also I need to get it sharpened and I need to take it apart so I have access to all parts that have a little rust. I get very picky picky and detailed once I get on the project. I think the lawn mower and the treadle are going to look amazing side by side - and then still probably get used as well. Thank you thank you for your video
Very interesting, thanks! I'm writing a novel featuring a blacksmith, and I watched this for research. I laughed out loud when you mentioned the fifteen-year-old apprentice being the one to sharpen "some angry dude's sword", because that's exactly what's happening in the scene I'm currently working on!
That washer on the gears is babbet - I was able to fenagle them off of my No. 61 Acme. Just yesterday I had to forge my own crank lever and feed gear indexing arm and pawl. Thanks for the footage - I didn't bother recording disassembly of mine as it was seized up badly so that made it a several day operation.
Great video. Now I don’t have real life experience. But I think the reason for turning the stone towards you has to do with forming the burr on the blade. People that sharpen on wetstones generally only go forward and push the axe away from themselves. And then after you create the burr, you pull the blade towards you on a piece of cloth or leather to remove it, and then you get a sharp cutting edge. Again, I get this from other people’s experience, not my own. So don’t take my word for it.
Thanks for the reply. What I have found through many years of experience in sharpening is that it doesn't matter whether you push OR pull the iron across the sharpening stone/plate, it will create the burr, then by flipping it and giving a tug, it will break the burr... then stop. In fact, as long as you keep the tool in contact with the stone (flat stone, not wheel), I tend to sharpen on both the push AND pull stroke, even going in circles and figure eights (if the cutting iron is large enough to do so with). The more angles of approach you can present between the cutting edge and stone, the faster it will remove material. This is true for all types of material removal processes.
Hi Daniel, there is another "Re-Assembly" video I did but it doesn't get to the oil fill part either (simply do a search on my channel for canedy otto). To answer your question though... There is a fill plug at the top of the blower's gear housing as well as a pet-cock valve on the lower half of the gear housing... you simply open the pet-cock valve and add oil through the fill plug until it starts coming out of the pet-cock. You then close the pet-cock and as you crank the blower, the gear train will carry the oil from the lower half of the housing up the gears to the remaining gears in the upper half. Hope that helps... good luck my friend.
They're always messy no matter what you do, I've seen people literally have it going everywhere, most people use the well for the water but you don't want leavenit there as it will erode the stone over time, but they didn't really care much back then and later to save money on stones they would usually add a dripper and usually like my great grandfather did which was use oil instead of water, it needed to be washed after a month of use but it would make the stone last much longer and get a finer cut, and as far as grinding blades goes...it depends on the application, most kitchen knives use a backwards grind as it cuts quickly and finer, but doesn't last near as long, the forwards grind for things like machetes as its not as fine and can hold up to a heavy beating LoL.
@@thelucondrix391 I am planning on having two stones, one with water for coarse and one with oil for fine... I found a huge wheel at an auction a few years back which has been patiently waiting for restoration and I plan on that being the coarse wheel and this small one here being used with cutting oil for a finer finish. The roles might be reversed once the large stone has been tested in water to fin d out which has a finer grain structure. The finer grain'd wheel will get the oil.
I would like to know: why aren't such sharpening stones widely in use today? Their wide diameter should be superior for a near flat grind. And yet wheels these seem forgotten
I think the biggest reason is because of the nature of our reliance on electricity. Most people don't even think of this kind of stone until they get older. I can only assume, generally speaking, that most of todays society was raised by parents or grandparents who lived through the rise of the power tool which is what they taught their children to use. That AND the rise of suburbia. The children & grandchildren were simply never exposed to such tools and therefore never had any options. Those who grew up on farms probably still had them kicking around in the barn but most people grow up in the city or in a suburban community where tools like this have been tossed away like a corded telephone from the 80s. Thinking about it from that perspective, when you teach your kids now a days how to use a phone for the first time, you would hand them a smart phone not a dial telephone, same with ALL tools from the past. In reality, electricity made life easier and faster allowing people to get more done in a shorter period of time. It's not until we get a little older (for me anyways) and start realizing that slowing down and enjoying the process is just as important that we revive the older ways. One side benefit I've learned throughout the years working with only hand tools is that you also get a pretty good workout at the same time lol.
Nice series. I am working on a 3/4" set now myself. These can be tough to restore because if you need to remove material from the wooden tongue plane you need to do the same to the metal skate of the groove plane to keep them cutting in sync with each other (assuming they were cutting right to start with of course). You could either deepen the groove in the wood plane or remove metal from the skate to match them up again. Enjoy your retirement. I have been "free" since Jan of 2019 and spending much time in my woodshop.
Sure it can but if you take a look into the times they were using such stones on a daily basis, they were primarily used for sharpening. The blacksmith who was forging the knife would forge not only the shape of the blade but also the profile of the cutting edge(s) best he/she could and then go to the grindstone... then heat treat the cutting edges and go back to the grindstone before handing off to the customer.
Interesting. I saw one just a few weeks ago, and was thinking about buying it, but the stone's face was on an angle. Not sure if it was made that way, or got worn down to it. It was awful coarse too. Did you get yours refaced or was it just like that? I think I see a little bump on it, but otherwise looks nice and flat.
There are a few real small chips out of the edges but overall I got a great wheel. I have others, one needed re-surfacing and I have tried a few tricks but they haven't paid off. Next I'm going to try treadling it (away from me) and resurfacing it with an angle grinder with masonry wheel... should do the trick if I can come up with a jig to hold the grinder steady but be able to move back and forth as well as inch in on the depth. I have a humongous wheel too which is almost perfect condition, only you aren't treadling this one haha, it has double reduction pulleys that are clutched to a 3hp motor (thinking of upping it to a spare 7hp baldor I picked up at an auction for next to nothing)
The Cordless Carpenter Yeah, I've seen a few but they're always in bad shape. I wish I could figure out how to do it, or find a place that would. Your idea about a grinder may work, but it would take a while. Have you ever heard of one having a face with like a 30-45 degree angle on it? Do you think it was on purpose for something in particular, or was it used the wrong way? I mean it was set up in a proper box, but with no pedals. Coulda been put on an electric motor and got wrecked. Dunno.
The Cordless Carpenter Yeah, that's what I was thinking. It'd be way too much work to bring it back to flat, and I don't know if I could use it like that. Too bad. The wheel, stand, well and all were there. Just needed peddles, or a stepped down motor, and it was only $50.
I'm not against trying olive oil, hell I'll try just about anything seeking perfection but initially it doesn't make sense to use lubricating oil that is designed to "reduce" friction in an application designed to force two objects to produce friction and remove material. If only only I had gallons of tap magic lol. I will definitely try this though because I have learned (through experience, not through what someone else has told me works) that it is the slurry created from the water or oil and the fine particles breaking off of the stone as you sharpen mixing together that actually does the sharpening. Hence using a dripper instead of filling the well full of the cutting fluid which would just wash away all the "desired" slurry off the wheel. Your question has sparked an experiment that I just thought up and will be doing in the future... to discover which technique (well or dripper) would remove material faster AND which one would produce a better finish. Perhaps the results will produce the same results, maybe not, I guess we'll find out huh... I'll definitely shoot a video of the experiment when I do it. Thanks for the comment.
@@thecordlesscarpenter7956 I found that using Olive oil does slow the process however it gives it a better edge. While an axe may only need to get the gouges out, other items like scissors and such one may want the slower sharpening. It gives me for one, more control over the shape and precise-ness. Is that a word? Shalom
I just got one of these the other day. Gearbox was full of mud. The composite-type gear at the bottom is swollen from where it sat in the mud. Any chance on fixing this old girl?
Without seeing it I can't know for sure. Wash off all the mud from the phenolic gear (I'd use a petroleum or citrus solvent) and just let it dry out, then clean everything else up and once you have disassembled it all and everything is cleaned up, try dry fitting everything back together and see if the gears will all mesh properly... if they do then sure, there is definitely a chance of breathing life back into her. Just make sure that once it is all said and done, you do a good job sealing her back together either with a gasket or use RTV like I did so she will hold the oil you'll fill her up with (fight the urge and let the RTV cure fully before adding the oil) and once the blower is oriented correctly (all the lettering should be horizontal and should look normal) fill the gearbox with oil until it comes out of the petcock valve. Have fun with her, I thoroughly enjoyed my rebuild!
@@thecordlesscarpenter7956 add me on Facebook and I'll send you some pics. If you don't have Facebook I'll give you my phone # so i can send some to you
Hello, I have a blower like this that I'm trying to restore because I bought it from someone and it was very rusted. How do I take off the fan whent the blower is opened?
Hi, from my recollection, there was a small square headed set screw coming in from the side (between the fan blades that held it on the shaft, if not, look for a capturing type bolt holding it on from the end of the shaft... that's really the only two ways I can think of that would hold it on. Just play around with it and you get her all figured out... it's not rocket surgery :-)
@@thecordlesscarpenter7956 thank you. I got that screw off already. It's just very very rusty and it still spins despite the handle being stuck in place so I can't even open it up to the gears
@@BlackBeastWorkshop If you're on a shoestring budget, you could try and make it out of a hardwood (Phenolic machines just like wood does so the properties aren't too far off)... just make sure it is a super hard wood that isn't too brittle and just saw yourself up a block of the same width, put the old gear on top, trace it out, then cut it out and shape it. would take some time but might be fun. Most gears back before the Iron Age were made from wood, you'll just have to make sure it is a wood that is strong enough and also one that won't swell too much when sitting in an oil bath (or compensate for the swelling when you shape it). If you are looking for a quicker less involved solution, you could always find your local machine shop and have them pump one out for ya.
Well, I got a steal on this one, I bought it from an older gal about 5 minutes from my cabin for only $80. Of course it needed to be restored but it had good bones and a full size stone in great shape. you can find them all over the place ranging from $100-$300... some go for big money though... thousands. I haven't shared it yet but about 9 months or so ago, I was at an auction and scored a motor driven stone that i'll be restoring... don't think i can make this one into a treadle tough (without some serious imagination), it is a whopping 3 foot tall and 4 inches wide... big son of a gun. perfect corners too... can't wait for that one.
If I was to sell this one, which I'm not lol, fully restored like it is with a full size stone in great shape, I'd be asking $750 - $1,000... probably take a while to sell it though but ya never know.
That's pretty much what I do is put a little grease where it rotates... anywhere where two metal surfaces are rotating against one another. Thanks for the comment.
So.....the tabs on the bottom are for mounting a blower directly to the bottom of the pan/hearth. The boss at each side of the cut-out is for the swivel tool rest. Yes, the holes in the side are intended for mounting the shield and or the smoke deflector/vent assy. If intended for indoor use. I'll email you some pictures.
Ha, yup, she's a holy grail (- manual tranny)... '98 1/2, suicide doors with the newer interior but the important thing... 12V!! Perhaps I'll do a quick video of her soon. Like every truck, she needs tome cosmetic work but she's mechanically sound and oddly enough the fastest vehicle I've ever owned and can tow like nobody's business. I'll explain in the vid if I make one haha
The Cordless Carpenter Yeah....i saw that right-off. Both of mine are 1990 era 1st Gen I swear, I cant go anywhere with either and not have to stop what I'm doing and chat with folks. They want too look or buy. I have had to open the hood so folks can take a look. I co-founded a truck show in Peru Indiana years back to focus on the 1st Generation trucks.
1st Gen are definitely cool. One of my 3 close friends has had a couple 1st Gens through his days and they were indestructible and just damn cool. He had one with a little crane on the back that stuffed into a custom rear bumper and it ran better than most new trucks and talk about patina... whew... was sad to see him sell it but I sure didn't need more vehicles, I already have to sell one of my vehicles before the move (the Jeep) which also pains but will be impractical and money used best in other areas in retirement.
Awesome video man! I just got mine and you have helped me so much on the disassembly. The Acme drills are interesting on how they were made. But stocked to get it all cleaned up and back in working order. I need to see about getting a new ratchet arm fabricated. But aside from. That it's all original.
I've used that method before too and it works great, especially when I'm working on a project and run out of all your materials and the store is 15 minutes away haha. Just waxing and using the plane works well too when you're pressed for time.
