Thanks ☺️ we typically use KDR resin for epoxy and geveko for acrylic, prismo for thermoplastic and LineWay UK for MMA / acrylics. In America you could try Sherwin-Williams, geveko which you can access here www.geveko-markings.us or swarco which you can access here: www.swarco.com/solutions/road-marking-systems# They are all very much the same and all perform very well just try to keep to a few suppliers only so that you can keep the finish consistent between projects

@IhorHorovyi-td1mu Thanks for your question - Here's my thoughts to answer your question: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-hJ6nO0nE5iE.htmlsi=dmcJSEJ6fRuzVvGE

Thanks for the message @InMushroomsWeTrust. I've kind of slipped from doing the weekly Vlogs for the past month because there's been so much other stuff going on, but we do have a load of content to release. It's just getting round to editing and uploading.! Is there anything in particular that you'd like to see in the upcoming videos?

Honestly, I bought that thing for my son and he has literally no interest in it whatsoever! I've got a 10 acre field at the back and I think he must've been on it twice and that's about it. Fortunately, I can still fit in it and get to ride it up and down to the farm every single day. :) it's a petrol powered 4 stroke 150cc. they good for about 25 miles an hour but as I only just fit in as soon as I go over any bumps it causes tears nearly every time!

​@AlexCIrving Hi sorry about that, im a linepainter myself i was checking out your paint sprayer. however I'm curious about the buggy, where is it within the video?

Check out some of the weekly vlogs - it usually features at the start of them as I head uk to the farm first thing Monday mornings

You can definitely get started in Line marking very cheaply. As you say doing parking lot with a roller and tape is a great way to get out there. Another great way would be to add a hand mould and use an MMA as this will give you a more durable finishAnd will allow you to paint much quicker. Starting with indoor Line marking isn't as easy and cheap. To start with you are going to need a shot blasting machine, a vacuum and probably a generator. The biggest issue with indoor line marking comes down to preparation of the floor and having the knowledge of the right paints to use. My suggestion if you were looking to start warehouse line marking, is to have a budget of around £15,000 or $15,000 for equipment and a couple of thousand for training and technical support. If you want to know how to do indoor Line marking and get the technical support, use this link: linemarking.expert/ And if you need to add a laser guide to your shot blasting machine, use this link: roadlines.co.uk/ Hope this all helps and that you get started soon! all the best, Alex

@@AlexCIrving Thank you so much for taking the time and explaining all this to me!

@@Snarfimus No problem at all, that's what I'm here for. When it comes to purchasing indoor equipment, I always recommend buying new or renting if you're uncertain about the investment. In the past, I've been too quick to buy expensive equipment, only to regret it later when it wasn’t used frequently enough to justify the cost. Personally, I enjoy factory marking, but keep in mind that it takes significantly longer and clients tend to be much more particular compared to car park line marking. You'll also need a team of at least two or three people to complete the job efficiently. In comparison, car park line marking, while occasionally impacted by weather, is faster, more profitable, and the customers tend to be easier to satisfy than those for factory work. The only reason I even started doing factory and warehouse line marking was because I had existing clients who owned warehouses and we get a lot of rain in the UK. If you're in a sunnier climate and have access to parking lot work, that could definitely be more profitable, especially if you’re using a spray machine or hand moulding. While it's tempting to cut costs, you also need to factor in productivity and meeting customer expectations.

Oh that thing is called the straight line 1000 and it is honestly an absolute nightmare unless you are doing curves on the ground. It really isn't all that great or useful in my opinion and it cost an absolute fortune, but if you are interested in them, there is a company in the US that sells them. Here's their web address: www.precisionfloormarking.com/product/straight-line-1000/ My recommendation is if you're going to be doing parking lot either by spray machine or if your budget doesn't stretch to that, you could start with hand moulds which cost around £25 / $40 and use an MMA paint. That will get lines down far quicker, easier and a lot cheaper than using a tool like this. I think the straight line 1000 is great in principle, but the handle is far too low, meaning you have to lean right overAnd it is actually far easier to apply tape by hand as typically you'll be taping along a shot blasted surface when you're doing indoor Line marking and if you're doing outdoor marking, you can buy a single piece of aluminium bar to use as a straight edge for about $50.

absolutely! To get the tape lines straight, you first have to get the shot blasting straight. In order to do that, I'd recommend using a laser guide which you can pick up here: roadlines.co.uk/collections/frontpage/products/shot-blaster-laser-guide-system-with-battery Once you have your straight shot blast lines, my recommendation is to pull the tape in by hand. He's a link to a video showing you how to do it from one of our training courses: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-d1V_tyoEDXU.htmlsi=KfKr0oLtHSEUuc62

mostlyFrance (Geveko) orthe netherlands (Veluvine)

Thanks for the question, @vyompatel6253! When customers first inquire about warehouse line marking, the key is understanding why they need the lines installed. Are they replacing old lines, possibly requiring removal work? Is this a new installation for safety compliance or something else entirely? Understanding their specific problem allows me to tailor the solution and quotation accordingly. No one installs line markings for the sake of it-there's always a reason, and knowing that reason is crucial. Once you’ve established the ‘why,’ the next step is understanding the surface type. This influences product choice significantly. You'll also want to find out how long the area can be out of action during the installation, as this affects both the materials and methods used. Finally, setting clear expectations for durability is essential-does the client expect the markings to last 20 years, or is a shorter timeframe acceptable? For example, if a client needs the lines to last 20 years in a high-wear area like a workshop, you'll likely need a two-part epoxy system, as well as a degreaser and oil-penetrating primer. On the other hand, if it's a clean warehouse moving pallets around with an expectation of 5-10 years' durability, you could opt for PU or 2K epoxy. Curing time is another critical factor to discuss with your client. To ensure long-lasting adhesion, the surface must be properly prepared, whether by shot blasting or grinding. After that, primer and potentially multiple layers of paint will be applied, with each layer having its own curing time. The products used will determine how long the area remains out of action. When I'm putting quotations together, I use an online system to lay out the quotation in an easy to read format and then I also provide a video overview of the quotation explaining what I'm going to install and where I'm going to be installing it. It's something that you may wish to consider, and although it is, a subscription service, it helps me convert so many more clients than any other method of ever used. Hope this helps! Apologies if it's a lot of information. I've just put together a quick video for you now on it. I;; get it edited and uploaded. Regards, Alex

@@AlexCIrving Thank you for your reply Alex, looking forward to see detailed video. I’m a student, and I want to start lines stripping business. So basically I’m just at beginner and trying to learn about it. Thanks again, Vyom.

@@AlexCIrving one more question that is in my mind is, in-terms of safety line marking, first we need understand how warehouse operations works, along with their raw material, finished goods storage areas. To understand that we need to take a tour of warehouse with client, take notes. And then make a digital layout, get approved by client. And finally start working on it. This is what I assume, are these correct steps?

I’ve filmed the video for you, I just need to get it edited and uploaded but in essence, yes, you need to understand what the best times would be for your customer, whether the floors are oily or dirty, what sort of cleaning they do and of course how long they expect the lines to last. I’ve also put together a downloadable checklist of things to ask that should make it an awful lot easier for you. I’ve got some customer meetings planned for tomorrow and I’m flying away to Spain on Saturday so will likely get the edit finished on Monday and uploaded as soon as it’s done

@@AlexCIrving No worries, Thank you so much for filming a video. All the best with your client meeting, Thanks

The XHD's aren't really designed for lower pressure applications like walls and doors. You'd probably want a neon or blue tip. Here's a list of the tips available and where they should be used: Green tips are meant for spraying fine finish applications with thin material (such as varnish, laquers, stain) at the lowest pressure. Neon tips are suited for every interior and exterior paint job. They offer high productivity at the lowest pressure. Blue tips are meant for wall painting and spraying in general. Like neon tips, they offer high productivity and are suited for latex, paints and emulsions. Brown tips are the heavy duty tips meant for plastering and less fluid materials. Grey tips are heavy duty tips for protective coatings sprayed at up to 500 bar. Yellow tips are specifically meant for line marking applications. Although, I still prefer the grey XHD tips.

£13,856.78 ex VAT for the auto single gun from Meon or spray direct

@@AlexCIrving sorry no kit lazer for my graco pls

I don’t sell spray machinery myself - these are the prices from meon and spray direct without the laser guides. The meon one is an auto series as you mentioned, the spray direct one is manual (my preference would be manual) Here’s the link for meon: meonuk.com/products/graco-linelazer-v-5900?srsltid=AfmBOoo7yeX5JWoOYQnsxEzfwnuW-3mwRjiyi2QNlT3mJdG-ahTN0OXJ And for spray direct: www.spraydirect.co.uk/acatalog/Graco-LineLazer-V-5900-Standard-Series-Petrol-Airless-Line-Striper-1-Manual-Gun-17H454.html Meon also do the laser kit, it’s about £1k more than ours. Here’s the link for theirs: meonuk.com/products/graco-laser-1700-kit-standard-series-3900-5900-200hs And for ours: roadlines.co.uk/products/green-dot-laser-laser-only You would need to buy the line marking machine directly from Spraydirect or Meon. Jonny Ryan runs spray direct and Charles Spencer at Meon - both great guys to work with

Sorry for my english. Igo White in french... Je voulais vous demander le prix pour le laser de votre vidéo, nous avons déjà tout notre matériel de traçage, nous réalisons cette activité depuis 10 ans déjà. Merci encore et félicitations pour vos vidéos.

@@snowgroup2431 Merci beaucoup pour votre message et vos félicitations pour mes vidéos ! En ce qui concerne les guides lasers, vous pouvez les retrouver sur notre site web. Voici les options disponibles : Version pour shot blaster avec système de batterie - 1495 £ + TVA : Voir le produit ici: roadlines.co.uk/products/shot-blaster-laser-guide-system-with-battery Laser guide avec batterie pour les machines de marquage de lignes - 1195 £ + TVA : Voir le produit ici: roadlines.co.uk/products/green-dot-laser-with-battery-system Laser guide sans batterie - 899 £ + TVA : Voir le produit ici: roadlines.co.uk/products/green-dot-laser-laser-only Il existe également une option pour l'expédition dans toute l'Europe lors de la finalisation de votre commande sur la page de paiement. N’hésitez pas à me contacter si vous avez des questions ou besoin de plus d’informations. Merci encore pour votre intérêt et je vous souhaite une bonne continuation dans votre activité de marquage de lignes !

We always go for 100mm lines. The primary reasons being: 1. The shot blasters use plates that reduce the opening from 300mm to 100mm and also 300mm to 50mm. 2. The paint roller heads come in 100mm as standard. You could probably get a plate made for 75mm fairly easily but it likely wouldn’t be off the shelf. It does raise an interesting point though; would the line be any less prevalent at 75mm? And would it save you 25% on materials?

Thanks @rae08. The main problem with that is that concrete is porous and so the oil will seep in - perhaps fairly deep and leaving a permanent stain. The best bet would be to use a varnish remover (amazon or similar) as these will tackle oil bases really well, but It really depends on just how big and deep the stain has penetrated. If you are going to use an acetone or similar, leave it to seep in for 10 - 15 minutes before trying to wash it off. If you have some pictures or a video, tag it below and we'll be able to help more.

@@AlexCIrving This line of work is so interesting to me. I'm just curious and I enjoy watching all your videos. As a woman I totally support your channel and I'm a new subbie 🤎. Unfortunately, I can't make it to the UK for the trade😭. Hopefully you'll make clips of content if you're up to it. Do your thing! and congratulations ‼️

So glad to hear that! Thank you for the support! We'll definitely be filming the trade morning - I've never done anything like it before and so I'll be honest honest, I'm a little bit apprehensive about how many people will turn up, will they enjoy it, can I provide enough value et cetera. One of the things that I'm really keen on doing is travelling over to meet paint suppliers, equipment, manufacturers and other line marking installers throughout Europe and the US. I feel it would really add to the weekly Vlog series and provide a lot more inspiration for people that are looking to get involved in the industry but unsure where they would fit in and how to get started.

@@AlexCIrvingI see where your coming from. It's really about being around like minded individuals. Continue going to different locations, marketing etc. I personally think this will be on the up & up. You're doing excellent already. This just looks so fun. 😍 I wish I could do something like this. I Just enjoy watching you and your team. U got this Alex ‼️

Thanks ☺️ If you’re ever in the UK and want to give it a go, do let me know! It’s super easy to get started with and we’re always here to support and help anyone we can, no matter where in the world 🌍

We typically use 4 suppliers: Geveko - www.geveko-markings.co.uk Aximum (that’s what this is) and the individual paint is called Marqualit www.aximum.com/en/industry/veluvine Prismo - www.prismoglobal.com Lineway UK - www.linewayuk.com

Either here: linemarking.expert/ or here: roadlines.co.uk/ or here: www.eventbrite.co.uk/e/line-marking-expo-2024-tickets-981339311297?aff=oddtdtcreator

Now that is a challenge! The nearest distributor is nearly 5000 miles away in South Africa! 🇿🇦 They don’t sell Titan but they do sell Graco (which are far better). www.speccoats.co.za Here’s the Graco website for searching: www.graco.com/gb/en/contractor/how-to-buy/where-to-buy.html?wtb_code=LL&address=South%20Africa%20&radius=50&radius_unit=km&services=sales_service_rental&ct=family And for Titan: www.titantool.com/find-a-dealer

Hi, doing great thanks. I hope you are also. The easiest way to get started is with some training. One of the things most people worry about is getting it wrong. If you want to learn how to do it with training and support use this link: roadlines.co.uk/products/superline-membership-12-months It will give you access to all the training needed that you won’t find anywhere else online as well as 12 months of technical support to overcome any problems you might encounter. In addition, you also get a monthly call to go through challenges and how to overcome them.

In this one we’re using the Harris TRADE MICROPOLY MEDIUM PILE ROLLER SLEEVE EMULSION 12" X 1 3/4" Here’s the link: www.screwfix.com/p/harris-trade-micropoly-medium-pile-roller-sleeve-emulsion-12-x-1-3-4-/2870X?tc=OT8&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAAD8IdPyNiAsCQoJow5ve6gpDgtyl9&gclid=Cj0KCQjwzva1BhD3ARIsADQuPnWq8YMAsVSsApwRSbZp4fSzwId2FxK8N9KKvI1Zg96jPpymDRDM3ewaAojJEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds I use this for just about every job whether we’re priming, painting or sealing. The only exception is when we install UV line markings we always opt for a foam roller as it gives a better finish

@@AlexCIrving Thank you for that information. I was already curious. Excellent work guys!

@@rae08 Thanks!

Ciao ciao

Now that's the million dollar question @biffen1969! I have tried a few "add on" items such as the Titan SureTrak Floating Gun Kit (link: www.spraydirect.co.uk/acatalog/Titan-SureTrak-Floating-Gun-Kit-759120.html#SID=2113) but they cost £1k and don't add much value. The best way to keep it straight I have found is to use a laser guide system - this is easier on a long distance line but shorter lines always look "iffy". If you have to do it on a short line over rough ground, try using a hand mould and an aluminium edge. The bigger issue I find on a rough surface isn't so much keeping it straight, but keeping the line width consistent. Typically, as the spray arm is fixed, when you roll the machine over a rough or undulated surface, the gun moves up / down and that changes the line width - sometimes by a fair bit! Again, in this situation, hand mould and MMA is my go-to! Hope this helps. I'll make a separate video and also add it to the week 6 ending for you.

Placer le pistolet à l’arrière de la machine change tout

Yes, placing the gun at the rear of the machine is always better than the front position. Well said. It’s also much easier in this position for curves. It’s just parking bays we find it doesn’t work as well as you often can’t get close enough to the edge of the bays

Thanks John. I hope you’re doing well.

Thanks for the feedback. I’m at a warehouse this weekend so will film it in more detail for you. I’ll list the material prices, paint application processes, floor preparation processes and cure times for paint, primer and sealer. Is there anything else you’d like to know for the video?

Great question Vince. I personally think that hand applied does look better than spray applied as you don't get the feathered edges. However, there is a way to improve spray application indoors; I would still tape all of the edges as that will remove the feathering. go wider on the tape (100mm) if you can so that you can raise the spray tip higher and prevent the pressure of the spray from lifting the tape and then, once it's been sprayed in, roll it once over to create a smooth finish and remove any ripple effects the paint can tend to leave. It's a quicker process and one that I'll document in an upcoming video on comparing the two options. The key i find, is that you mustn't go too thick otherwise the paint won't cure properly. This is one of the main benefits of hand application. We go thinner and build it up in 2 layers, giving each the time to dry thoroughly. with spray, its very hard no to go too thick!

Great question David. I purchased a trailer set from B-Tek fabs in burton on Trent for 17k and it’s pretty good. There are 2 other companies I know of, Tex engineering and Somerford Equipment and both do the exact same sets. I would say that there isn’t much demand for them though. Most people want lorry mounted but I still think they have a place - just in limited numbers. I also see a lot of people moving toward MMA which I think will takeover somewhat in the next 5-10 years. Can you share any pictures of the one you built?

@@AlexCIrving yes I did see somerford and Tex make them but they do look like small setups for dry day line marking, not much chance of that this year ey? Also not sure if you can spec them to run diesel burners like mine? Sure I can email you some pictures of the setup I made if you give me your email address? And MMA is great gear and the way forward if the price was a bit more like thermoplastic. And if someone can develop a pram that lines MMA then it's a game changer. I see Hoffman do one but it looks an absolute game to use it 🤣

@@davidunderwood8196 sorry I thought I had already responded! no, I don't believe you can use diesel with wither of these units so it would be good to see what you have. My email is alex@line-mark.com

@@AlexCIrving will shoot you an email over this evening 👍

I started out running a landscaping company and one of my customers had asked me to Line Mark their fields and car park. I put the lines in on the field for them and Line-Mark the car park and did such a terrible job that they threatened to pull the contract from me, unless I put it right. To be fair, the lines were crap! 💩 I decided that I would invest properly in Line marking to try and put it right and ended up spending a substantial amount of money buying equipment (most of which I didn’t need). Shortly after buying the equipment my farm was broken into and most of my landscaping and Line marking equipment was stolen. This was November 2021. I couldn’t afford to re-purchase all of my landscaping and Line marking equipment and decided that I had to choose only one of them to pursue. I decided that landscaping felt like an incredibly saturated market and there were literally hundreds of other companies trying to win the same limited amount of work, by dropping prices so low, that it didn’t make the work viable. I decided that Line marking would be the way forward for me as it’s largely an uncontested market space that is run by outdated and “traditional” businesses, which meant there was a huge room for improvement with technology, processes and branding. I’ve been running Line-Mark.com since March 2022 and have been filming and documenting as much of the journey as I can from that point. It’s not all rainbows 🌈 and butterflies 🦋 I can tell you but it has been so rewarding. The last six months I’ve tried to massively up our content and improve our filming and decided to take somebody on full-time just to help me film and edit the footage. Five weeks ago, we started filming our weekly vlog series Showing the behind the scenes of building Line-Mark.com and how we generated 1.5 million in sales in the last two years and £130k profit the last 6 months. I’m going to keep up with the weekly blog series and any of the questions I get through, if possible, I’ll try to turn them into a standalone video for people to watch. Are you involved in Line marking or looking at getting involved?

Thanks for your feedback. Absolutely the SEO can and will be improved. It’s all a big learning curve for me! What suggestions do you have?

@@AlexCIrving Yeah Proper SEO optimization increase our Channel Visibility Double. Where can I explain or suggest you in detail.

Thanks 🙏 I had this conversation with someone else last week. He was saying that he doesn’t rate the diesel ⛽️ boilers and thinks gas all the way. Apparently they are always cycling and burning the paints. Absolutely have to get a PTO for the mixers though. That much is a definite.

UK 🇬🇧

Thanks! When are you going to film some more of yours? I just watched the arrows you painted - nice job ✊🤜

@@AlexCIrving soon man I appreciate your feedback 👍🏾🤝🏾

@ProStripeLinePainting Thanks for the feedback 🫶 glad you enjoyed it. I’ll get a new episode out every week

So loud aren’t they! PTO all the way! Just weighing up the cost of a new truck build VS re- building this one. I’m keen to go diesel boilers with a PTO

@@AlexCIrving I'm not all that up on diesel boilers. I've worked for a period with them, not sure does the boilers have to be lighting and turning all the time because of the pto but I see the yellow goes an off colour like a yellow green because it gets burnt. Only way to keep yellow a real yellow is to have 3/4 of a half boiler unless your going to be bangin out a shitload of yellow and never fill up the boiler as it takes too long to cool down in the evening, just under half(with bags fired in) for the way and as I said the colour goes off cos it gets burnt heating and reheating all the time. I work with gas all the time, prob bit more expensive but quicker for heat etc. Can't say about diesel cos didn't work for so long with them. Boilers were lit up and turned from inside the cab, all automatic. Somerford is the company that builds the bodies and by the looks of ur lorry, they built that 1 aswel.

I’m sure it was a Somerford. I did look at Maxigrip for a new one but it looks like they are resellers as opposed to actually building them? The ones I had previously were made by B-Tek Fabs and I had it trailer mounted. To be honest a trailer would still suit me fine as we only do 25 - 100 bays on average per site and perhaps a 100m of walkways at a time. At most, we need 15-20 bags on board for the average job. I think it would save me thousands in insurance, service snd running costs vs the truck + I wouldn’t have to pay congestion (it’s euro 5)

@@AlexCIrving very true , u cud always have your compressor on a trailer also with 2 gas barrels installed for burning off. Very handy to have a burning off unit ready to tow, burn today, installation tmoro.

Not tried Visever but neon paint is expensive VS many others. They have an expo on in a few weeks over at Donington park which should be good though. I did manage to talk to Charles Spencer and he reduced the tins to around 50% but that was a while ago. The spreadsheet is a great starting point for knowing your prices and profit quickly

@@AlexCIrving visever same size tin as the lineway uk tin you have. I've used it quite a bit for blue wheelchairs, getting approx 4 to 4.5 full backgrounds sprayed 4.8x2.4 . Nice strong blue colour not bright nor dark blue. Spreadsheet is bang on for what I need. Perfect👌👌👌

Great. I’ll give you the download on the call

@@AlexCIrving I'm leaving Nigeria tomorrow night, here for a few weeks visiting won't be back in Ireland until late Monday night. I only just thought of that now. We'll try make contact very shortly though.

No problem at all. I’ll move the booking for you

Thanks John. Week 2 video is just uploading!

Thanks John. Glad you liked it. They will get better as we make more of them!

Glad you enjoyed it. Hope all is going well for you

Absolutely, I’ll get it filmed and talk through it for one or the days this coming week for you

@netsbaltutis1436 Here it is for you: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-3Hyq4oSO3-A.html

Thanks Sam!

I always use 3M 101e as I’ve never had the paint bleed through it. Here’s a link for it in the uk: www.vikingtapes.co.uk/products/3m-101e-general-purpose-masking-tape-48mm-x-50m-formerly-3m-2120?variant=33106447958079 It’s far better than the generic tape you get at DIY / home depot type of places. Every time I tried an alternative (cheaper) tape, it struggled to stick or the paint bled etc.

Hi John. I typically use either an MMA from PPG / Prismo called RoburGrip. If you look for Rob Salt on LinkedIn 👇 www.linkedin.com/in/robsalt1? he can help you with pricing and delivery, but it’s usually around £60 for 20kg! Which is very good! Alternatively, we might use a sprayable MMA - Geveko do a great sprayable and hand rollable MMA called RollPlast and if you look for Andrew Price 👇 he can hook you up. www.linkedin.com/in/andrew-price-399bab35? Acrylic is around £95 / 20kg and is very good. It’s called HS or 3s route And lastly we use acrylic and MMA from LineWay UK supplied by Ash Kejriwal 👇 www.linkedin.com/in/linewayuk? Acrylic is approx £90 / 25kg and is very good. We have used Meon for paints for a few projects and indeed, that’s whom we initially were supplied by, but it wasn’t cost effective for us long term. Charles (Spencer) actually did manage to improve the prices for us significantly and I believe we were paying around £75 / 20kg for vialine approx which is very good 👍🏼 as the list price they have is £150+ but as we had agreements with others by this point we continued with Ash, Andrew and Rob. In all cases, a primer can be a good idea, I have tried both with and without primers and I think that comes down to the surface. The one thing you will need to do is clean the surface first if it’s concrete or block paving. In terms of best use, I’d go: Hand applied MMA Sprayable MMA Acrylic And, I’d never use thermoplastic on block paving. One thing I found really beneficial is to create a spreadsheet with each of the products on showing the list price and coverage rate. If I’m then looking at a project for a customer, I know the cost difference using each product and I can let the customer make the right decision on which product to use. I personally found that’s one of the best ways of deciding how to progress and choose products for a surface. Simply present the customer with the options in a very clear and concise way and ask them which they’d prefer having.

@@AlexCIrving super il check them out during the week. Thermoplastic is def a no no for brick or concrete, hate using it on it. Paint is the only way forward. Thanks so much for your help. Be in touch down the road 👍👍👍👍

@@johngreene3376 Just made a quick video regarding the paints on concrete for you. It'll be edited and live by the end of next week and also ill incorporate it within the weekly vlog episode for Friday!

Thanks for your feedback - always great to hear what others are using. We used to use the yellow tip RAC 5's that you mention - thats what we've moved from following guidance from SprayDirect. As a result, we're finding the XHD's do much better for our lines!

What sort of issues are you getting?

@@AlexCIrving the pump loses pressure and it is not spraying

That sounds like the packings could be worn. Depending on the machine, you could pick up a pack seal kit and fairly easily change it. I had this issue last week on my 5900 and ordered a repair kit. Here's a link for the repair kits we use - you will be able to find your model number here (assuming it's Graco) and then note down the repair kit parts list number to order from your chosen dealer. www.spraydirect.co.uk/acatalog/select_pump_repair_kit_by_product.html for other machines such as the ES 1000, I just change the whole pump as it's cheap and easy. If you can't see your model easily, hit CNTRL / CMD (on mac) F and then type in 5900 for example. that will highlight the kit for you and you can then order from these guys in the UK or type in the part no to get it elsewhere in the world.

does it sound like this? ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-5DjP58PDyAs.htmlsi=Esjdyr72IMvwVLrs

Great question thanks. I think it warrants a video all on it's own.Give me 10 mins and I'll get a video out for you!

Here's a very quick video on spray tips: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-bu71Rzx3UKI.html

@@AlexCIrving Thanks so much for putting that video up Alex, much appreciated.

You're most welcome!

Thanks Sam, I hope you're doing well. I just got your message on LinkedIn. Anyone interested in a tip saver can find them here: www.sprayman.co.uk/product/tipsaver/

We always use the Keson Prochalk (5lb / 2.27kg). They vary in price from £15 - £22 per tub. We like the fluorescent as they stand out really well and you can't see the chalk under the painted line. Here's a link for where we buy it in the UK: www.buybrandtools.com/acatalog/Chalk-Refill-2kg.html?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwyJqzBhBaEiwAWDRJVB-He7SW_DRwZYpvPXlu2rpHQnyM0htk8pohq5EduM2OZd9IqERhVBoC7gUQAvD_BwE It's a little cheaper else where in the world: USA site -> www.karaco.com/marking-supplies/chalk-line/keson-prochalk-marking-chalk-refill-red-5-lb/

Thanks

Thanks Steve, appreciate the support!

Thank you so much 😀