Here to learn and share projects with the community. I do my best to give quick & concise information about my process hoping to help anyone trying to do something similar.
For any inquiries you can reach out to me here or at the email below - I reply to all questions.
@@adamdebowski2037 I got it setup in 2 workshop tables each rated at 2200lbs so I'm really hoping that is sufficient 😂 I'm going to drop video soon of the build.
@@mrraimundo130 Nice 👍 Here’s another video you might find helpful. I walk through the process of machining a part with a CNC program: Making Parts With Centroid Acorn ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-bvAuZfgSsnE.html
Let us know what kind of machine you have and what sorts of help you need or want to see. Remember, there is always the Centroid CNC Users Forum where you can feel free to ask you questions!
Thanks Aaron! I tell you, I tried and tried to come up with a design that didn’t look like yours, and kept tweaking it back to the point where it did again. There’s something about your Resolute that is really appealing. Like this cool mix of ergonomics/utility and beauty. Thanks for everything you do for the community and it’s great to see your first program’s running in the new shop! Cheers 🍻
Hello Adam, at 43:00 of the video you put in a .043" diameter offset to tool #6 to re-run that hole and make it bigger. I would of thought you would have put a -0.043" in there to make the hole bigger. Coming from Mach3 if I needed to re-run a hold and make it bigger, I had to tell the controller think the tool was smaller so it would run a larger path, hents making the hole bigger. Ill have to experiment with this feature to get it right. Im nearing completion of converting from Mach3 to Acorn and found your video pretty well layed out for an introduction to using the software. Good job. Mark
@@Browningmotorsports Glad to hear you found the video helpful, Mark. The value would be negative if we selected “wear” cutter comp in CAM, but we selected “inverse wear,” so it’s a positive value in this case.
Great video and absolutely spot on. I am so glad I found you to help me get started with CAM. I just bought a used Novakon NM-145 mill with very low hours. The previous owner upgraded the spindle to VFD but didn't know how to hook it up to the breakout board and was still using Mach 3 demo version. It took me 3 weeks to figure out that Mach 3 was a dead end. My Acorn kit is arriving tomorrow! Centroid is an industrial system with decades of support, documentation and tutorials. What really sold me was learning that Centroid makes massive commercial systems and this is their very low end controller. But the absolute best part is the CNC12 software running on your PC is the same for this kit as the big commercial systems they sell so you get all the industrial strength features. I don't want to play with home made CNC like I did with 3D printing. I want a reliable mill to make parts. You get what you pay for and the capability is worth the money. Finally digitizing allows you to copy parts made of unobtainum. Years ago my neighbor had a side business making parts for antique car clubs on a manual mill. Where are you going to get a thermostat housing for a 1940 Packard? What if you could copy the cracked part and make a new one?
Not really. But the probing functions that are part of the "pro" license (one step less expensive than the digitizing license) sort of can. You can accurately find the location and size of features like circular bores and bosses, edges, corners etc. with the pro license. Dedicated CMMs have all kinds of advanced automated reporting/programming functions that you won't get with acorn. But if you're willing to put in the extra time of running probing cycles manually, you can get much of the same information (absolutely dependent on the accuracy of your machine) a CMM would put out. I use my little machine to measure parts all the time as a sort of CMM and am always blow away with the accuracy. Hope that makes sense!
For me Im actually very excited about the digitizing because o reverse engineer very comolex engine parts and timing change covers and atuff woth a but load of features.
@@raindeergames6104 here’s something to be aware of - steep surfaces will be offset by up to a full radius of your probe tip. I haven’t found a great way to deal with this. Let me know if you do! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-GezEigQ7o-4.htmlsi=fkpoOplh_kTwBLEf
@adamdebowski2037 thank for the heads up. This should not be a issue for me to much. As long as I can do all the different flat surfaces and bores it should be great. I can match this up with my 3d scan and should be perfect
I wish someone would do a video on "Starting From Zero Knowledge, Machining 101" This is the closest Ive seen toward new learners, and its excellent. Thanks Adam!!
The part where you explained how all CAM software/tool paths share the same parameters was GOLD. I have a CAD background and have recently gotten into researching how to build custom CNCs, I’ve tried to explain the same concept to my fellow cad peers about different softwares but end up looking like a clown because the basics don’t make sense to the advanced users anymore. Would you happen to know about PLCs and automation robot arms? That’s my final goal to 5axis 3d printing.
I'm glad you found it helpful! I've programmed some robotic PLCs in the past. I think one of my very first videos on RU-vid is balancing a beam with quadcopter propellors/motors. I don't know anything about 5 axis robot arm programming, but my instincts tell me there should be some reverse kinematics libraries you could take advantage of if you wanted to do it yourself, and I've definitely seen 5axis motor controllers you can buy, but that's the extent of my knowledge. Would you buy the robot arm or make it yourself? Cheers - Adam
@@adamdebowski2037 I’m looking to make a smaller arm for my independent study class in CNC programming. Initially was planning to make parts for my 3d printer and call it a day. Since it’s still summer time I’m thinking of laying out all of my skills acquired over the years into one project. That goes without saying I’m still a noob when it comes to scaled up machines or even just understanding how the electronics scale up compared to diy 3d printers. Will check out your videos 100%.
I'm glad you enjoyed the video! Objectively, both the 440 and 770 are better machines than my setup, but they sure come at a premium. All in, the setup I have is under well under 10K USD, and that includes the Mill, CNC conversion, air compressor, tooling, everything. The main benefits of the Tormachs: Tool Changers (this is huge), way higher 10,000 rpm (great for small tools) compared to my 3000 rpm, enclosure & cooling (lets you get into fancier materials easily), BT30 spindle is more rigid than the R8 spindle. The main benefits of my setup: a fraction of the cost, somewhat easily (and economically) upgradeable spindle that will out perform the Tormachs, and PM30 has larger machine travels. If I had to choose between my setup and the 440 or 770, I would probably still chose my setup. If I had to choose between my setup and the 1100M, I'd choose the 1100M if money was no object. I'd say it really depends on what you want to use it for (hobby, or business/making money?) and the materials you want to machine... and most of all; budget.
I looked into Linux CNC but bought PlanetCNC in the end. PlanetCNC looked less complicated. There is only one version and it has wear compensation, Probing routines and it can handle 4th axis and tool changer.
Adam, currently I’m running nema 34 on the Acorn. I’ve done a lot of research but couldn’t find the answer. I’m trying to find what to set my PPR or step per revolution on the driver. Any recommendations?
@@adamdebowski2037Adam, the driver is set to 6400ppr. I’m tuning the motor to move 1” but it is really inconsistent.. average around .001 off give or take when I rerun 1” movements. I take it from the backlash?
@@TheAnt0906 yup - sounds like backlash. You can compensate for backlash in the control. Try passing one inch on the way back, and then changing directions to get back to 1 inch…. Something like: G0X0, G0X1, G0X-0.125, G0X0
Hey Adam, Thanks for the vid. I watched it when you posted but just came back to watch again. You helped me a while back when I was deciding which way to go on my controller and software, thanks for that! My controller cabinet is done besides putting a skin on it. I'm working on the machine design now. I have the ball screws and servo motors already just need to get something put together for testing. I think the biggest hurdle may be getting the acorn setup correctly. But once I have one axis figured out the rest is cake. You do a great job explaining how and what you are doing and I appreciate it! Cheers 🍻
Hey Blackbird - thanks for checking back in with an update! Let me know how you make out when connecting the acorn. I’ll be happy to share all my settings. So long as your step and direction connections into the motor drives are good, you shouldn’t have too many problems but I’m curious to see how it goes. Thanks for the kind words! - Adam
Thanks for the video Adam! I always enjoy watching your videos. Even though I've been running my Acorn converted PM30 mill for almost 5 years now I did learn a couple of things. I didn't know you could modify the hole size using the D offset in the tool library. I also didn't know you could get a 3D view of the tool paths when running the program. I manage my tool offsets a little different using the Fixed Z Home method and a Tool Touchoff mounted on the left-front of the table. I also made a power drawbar for tool changes. I don't know how you have gone on so long without one. A ATC would be nice but I mostly post for each tool change to prove out the CAM. Most of my jobs are one offs so the ATC wouldn't make much difference.
Thanks Mark! Which tool touch off are you using? I’ve been thinking about getting one for a while now…. Maybe it’s time! For your fixed Z home method - are you using one of those standard mechanical limit switches? I always thought they weren’t accurate enough, but I haven’t actually experimented. Do you find any variability in your Z positions?
I have always wanted to be able to do this type of CNC type machining in my home shop but never had the nerve to pull the trigger on purchasing the system. Unsure how long it took you to get good at this? Did you have a machinist background? In any event, very impressed with your abilities and video. Thxs
Hi Ralph - thanks for the kind words! I have no previous experience as a machinist, and extensive experience with the Solidworks CAD software. Designing parts in 3D was no problem, but learning how to apply toolpaths to the parts was all new to me. I’d say it took me a couple months of using the machine a few times a week to get comfortable with it
Absolutely fantastic video. I'm just getting into the Acorn CNC with my PM-25. So many things I was curious about and you covered them. You do an excellent job explaining how to get from A to B to the novice.
