Flexfilm is a window film distributor dedicated to providing top-tier ceramic and carbon window film, paint protection film, superb tools, and unmatched customer service and support.
@@juptonstone Simple... you commented before you watched the entire video. Had you watched the entire video, you would have had the answer to your question.
i was always under the impression that you never hit the defrost lines with anything abrasive because it will damage them? Clearly youre a professional but im just curious the steel wool sanding down the defrost lines has no negative effects?
I'm sick and tired of this liar's. Just look at their commercial. They use a dozen different people to make the testimony.. BUT they all appear using the lip sync voice. Unbelievable Scammers. If they can't be truthful and honest in their advertising, how good do you really think their product is? These guys are a bunch of con artists... please stay clear of FLEX FLIM.
Why don't you back this up with facts instead of being a little emmotional bitch? (Trying to save the world) I bet you can't even pull out 1000 dollars out of your ATM... Lions do not have time arguing with Donkies... Also... look up the Kruger-Dunning effect on Google and learn what is really going on here. ✌️
Thanks Ralph for a great intro into the tint cutting world. I would like to pick your brain and ask you a question about my issue. I have followed your directions from a to z and I have hit the wall with the following problem. My cutter is cutting through the film on far end and too shallow at the starting end. Have you experienced such case? I wonder if there is any way of tweaking the settings before I start taking the machine apart and play with rail adjustments. Perhaps the issue is with the film itself... I have purchased the amazon special to practice different cuts, before I spend a little fortune on high quality tint. Maybe that's my problem... Any thoughts?
how would this be explained through online or text request. We get a lot of leads online nowadays and customers often ask the simple question "how much for so and so". I understand that you should never try and sell through a phone, however, how can we change the conversation to a value product rather than that of price.
I wish I watched this a week ago would have save me a number of messed up window films. Its a little help on my back window, my back window bends quite a bit so I messed up a lot at least 7 goes to get 1 that I could put on it. It has a few crease no bubbles and its cut just to small on the bottom. I say not to bad 1st time tinting a car. when a pro shop said it took him 3.
I appreciate how thorough you were and how well you explained every step. Really wish I would have stumbled on this before my first attempt at doing my back window.
Are you comparing apples to apples? If you take the CTX vs Stratos film you'll get the same results. If you're going to compare films show he spec sheet of both otherwise it isn't a fair comparison.
That would be boring. The result would always be the same. The outside temperature would equalize with the inside temperature over time. This is referred to as thermal equilibrium. Mother nature always wins.
@@FlexFilmPlus no it would actually be a real test of how well the films reduce temperature in a vehicle instead of some theoretical ray gun and meaningless measurement!
Im the bestest and mote gooder then you. I can do it way more quicklier too. Sorry your not the bestest but you arentnot the worstest either. Bye Mr Hackadack!
Have hear a RU-vidr/installer say that Crystalline will block over time whereas they say Nanoflex’s heat blocking will breakdown over time. Any thoughts?
Flexfilm will not give up ANY performance over time. The Tungsten Oxide, mixed with Antamony tin oxide, also combined with carbon will always be stable. These nano particles of elements off the periodic table will always be stable and not be altered from exposure to the Sun in any way. The possibility of any nano technology changing over time in any film or any brand is a myth or urban legend. It's not possible.
I don't know why this didn't click in my head. I'm just doing some home windows and I came up with the same idea, overlap and then cut. My dumbass overlapped it as little as possible and then tried to dig out that stupid little splinter of a piece. thankfully I've got one door left so that one should be a lot easier.
Do you have a test with the tint percentage with the ceramic with the heat rejection? 5% vs 30% vs just ceramic/ highest percentage? I want the heat rejection but not the night time visability issuses with the 5%.
