Dear Armin! I use a ring similar to the Yuwen style, but with a manchu release technique. (Clockwise rotation for right-handed pulling.) Smoother release when exiting the groove...
Could you check the actual draw weight of the limbs? I got mine in 38 pounds, but it only measures 34 pounds at 29" draw length, limb bolts middle setting on W&W ATF X. Told them about the issue but they refuse to acknowledge their QC mistakes and just say different riser will have different poundage, however a difference of 4 pounds is outside of normal range, overall a pretty negative experience with them so far...
Hi Armin, thanks you for everything that you do. I have improved my archery due to all your videos and advice. I have one question… I have never seen you twist the string on any of the horse bows? Can you explain? Thanks in advance DJ
hey armin,,, for your info, the winner of traditional division 12th CONQUEST CUP FETIH KUPASI 2024 at Istanbul, Turkey, used this Barbaros bow to win the cup...
A simple fix for loose arrow nocks is a piece of dry grass stalk. Remove the nock, insert the grass stalk and hold to one side, then push the nock in 😊 Enjoy 🕉💖🏹
Shooting Asiatic right-handed with thumb draw. My arrows keep flying off to the right. A less stiff spine has reduced this but it’s still a bit of an issue - not sure if it’s my technique or what. Has anyone experienced this issue?
I had an ides that all bowman's measured the amo length from the back of the riser. But it's easy to find out draw the bow using a scale to its amo and check the poundage against the manufactures mark.
The bows tiller looks off to me. Can't see the full profile but when you first shot the bow (at 14:30 timeline) the upper limb looks stiff while the lower limb is bending nicely...
Just found it but to late, my first set is on the way, a snake ;-) But you show a verry nice bow, set. Its finish looks beautyfull. I miss a stand, probably it would be a bale of straw.
I started with archery 8 weeks ago , so I am nearly completely a newcomer. I have an American longbow and a metis buck trail (saw your review). First bow is said to have 35 p second 25 p. And I have 29 inches arrows with 2 different spines and a draw length of about 26 inches. And Armin , in the moment I remember your sentence in one of the videos - or in more - go out and shoot some arrows. And I am not fixed to mediterran release but with the metis also thumb release is possible. Later I guess it will get more important but in the moment 25 p is fine 35 gives me a harder time and I guess both are about 5 p less for me than said. But: thanks so much for your virtual coaching, it helps a lot - it is fantastic! In the archery club (mainly string walkers and recurve) they are wondering how to hit target with these „techniques 🤣
Draw length should be measured from the two consistent points of contact with the bow - the belly, where it sits on the palm/draw board, and the peak of the string, where it sits on the thumb/scale hook. This way if you were to freeze a person at full draw and place a variety of different bows in his hands you would find him drawing them to the exact same draw length. Measuring based on the arrow is terrible because relative to these two consistent points: - Nock location changes based on string angle at the thumb, gap between arrow and thumb - Tip location changes based on grip shape, hand size and placement The same supposed draw length on different bows could have your body in a variety of physical positions.
Hi, would you show us how to measure the length of the riser of the Asian traditional bows? I am trying to make a Tatar bow and I was told that the length of the riser was 8 inches, but I don't know how to measure the riser( from where to where). Thank you very much.
Thanks for video, I found it, because I search why my Korean laminated bow just snapped. It was Kaya Black K 45# 46". It was a sunny day around 30 degrees today. I left it at the shooting position and went to collect arrows from the target. When I returned in few minutes the bow had odd shape and lower arm collapsed under arch pressure and folded inwards while the bow was still maintaining pressure from the chord. I've noticed a crack near handle on the lower limb and it expanded in shape was bulkier at that area then upper limb.
On the Bose that I build, I measure the brace height from the belly side of the bow near the top of the handle. I measure the draw length from the back of the bow where the arrow would leave the shelf. Some of my handles very in thickness, so the 28 inch arrow that I measure from the inside of the knock to the Back of the arrow the point I mean to the back of the point that’s where I measure 28 inches but because my handles vary and I come to the same draw length each time I don’t pull an arrow I pull the arrow the same distance, but it always doesn’t measure the same based on the back of the bow where the back of the arrow meets the back of the point.
The "Back" meaning the front side of the Handle? I have measured from the "back" (front side ) of the handle, makes sense since that is as far as I would draw
Thank you for the information. This is always been a confusing point to make. I'm wondering if it would benefit to house 2 or 3 different standards. AMO for those with a shelf, A separate one for those without a shelf, and a third, one for compound. I'm not sure, but AMO and compound might work out the same. I've never shot off of a shelf, so I am just brainstorming here.. Thank you so much Armin!
inside of the handle. makes matching various bows with arrows easy, measurement easy to read with eh measuring arrow. but foremost it is YOUR drawlength regardless on how the handle is shaped. it reaches from the string to the where the hand is on the bow handle. that should be the standard, I'd say
Does it matter that much? As long as you reach your own draw length, have arrows of appropriate GPP and spine... does it really matter when shooting asiatic bows if you have an inch of 'extra' arrow protruding at full draw? I mean the Koreans developed methods of shooting much smaller than usual arrows so they could use anything found lying around on the battlefield.
It would appear that most would be concerned with safety while drawing the bow. Having the tip behind the front of the bow would generally considered an unsafe draw. Bottom line, who really cares if the variation of an inch changes the draw poundage by more or less 1 1/2-2#? Would be convenient is all of the bow makers could agree on one method of testing, whatever it would be, and measure all bows by that method.
If you’re talking with experienced bowyers the standard is from the back. Otherwise, you’ll create absolute confusion. Everyone needs to be on the same page.
AMO is great if you're shooting a recurve, everyone knows what it means. Doesn't work for Asiatic and English longbow. I believe the latter is to the back as standard, it's less certain for Asiatics. The only time it's important though is if an archer is at safe draw limit, and a bow isn't happy there, whether it's slightly under or over. Thanks for raising an interesting discussion point.
Thanks for the video! It's been a few years since I had the pleasure of practicing archery but one factor I believe affects the draw length (and position used to take the measurement) is the type of bow used. You covered traditional Eastern bows (I really like them). For competition Western bows, with a "clicker" at the handle (can't remember the correct name of the thin metal palette), I believe we should consider the tip of the arrow for the measurement, since the entire arrow is drawn (to pass the clicker trigger point indicating the arrow release point/moment). All the best to you!
If you use broad head tips, which is how for arrows were originally made to be used with bows, the arrow needs to be long enough not to cut your fingers when drawn. So, 1 inch to 1.75 inches past the front of the bow where you hold when shooting, makes the most sense.
