I’m Matt, I like to take things apart and fix things myself, I don't always follow the instructions but decided why not capture this as content that can be shared. This might give others ideas and inspire them to DIY fix things and maybe even save some money along the way!
My videos are for reference. Get help or consult a professional when in doubt, better to be safe than sorry!
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This just happened to me. Scary as shit. (I live in an apartment and this is on my deck). I literally just cleaned my Traeger before this cook as well.
I was worried this was gonna take more time! You made it easy for me on my 99, appreciate it! I'm basically in my 3rd year of being a lube tech so trying to get my hands dirtier on the heavier stuff.
Thank you. All the info I was looking for. Especially the light type! Even my manual doesn’t tell me what bulbs. I’m going to your links and ordering 👍🏻
No, this car isn’t a daily commuter, mostly used when I go short trips or camping. It’s on the trail when I’d have the camera and phone mounted up. If you were worried you could rig up something similar mounted coming up from the center console maybe?
Very few things are built to last these days and many things are not designed to be easy to work on or will require special tools. For me I see the tools as an investment that helps me save significant money when I can tackle a DIY fix. Good luck with your repair! Ask around maybe a friend has a set of Torx screwdrivers you can borrow 👍🏼
Thank you for these instructions, but my gas Whirlpool duet dryer has a similar problem that these instructions didn't help resolve. I appreciate any further tips! I did replace the thermal switch and thermistor, but my problem recurred. Here's what happens: my dryer is idle for at least half an hour. Then I put a wet load in and start it. The gas will ignite and run for about 2-3 minutes as normal. Then a high pitch sound starts coming from the bottom. About a minute later the flame extinguishes and shortly after the high pitch sound stops. The drum keeps turning and I can see the igniter glowing on and off every minute trying to reignite the flame, but the flame never ignites. Keeps doing this until I cancel the cycle. If I try to re-run it within 5 or 10 minutes, the igniter glows on but the flame never ignites. The drum runs without a flame. I have to let it sit still for at least 30 minutes to get it to re-ignite like before and only for just 2-3 minutes as mentioned, then a high pitch sound, etc.. Does anyone know what could be causing this? It is behaving like this with the older and the newer thermal fuse and thermistor. Thank you!
Check out my other video where something similar happened with my dryer. In my case, the Gas Valve Solenoid Coils needed to be replaced. Easy fix, inexpensive, hope this helps! These over time stop working when they get warm, which is why when cold it will work for a light, and then during the cycle they stop working as they get warm. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-dyKubdUM-RI.html
@@MattsGarageMiscDIY thank you very much! Yes, that turned out to be my problem too. I just installed a new set of coils and the dryer worked like a charm. Thanks again for this tip!
I used your video to change my radiator. Thank you so much! Saved me thousands. Easy to understand and it only took me just a couple hours. I’m just a chick that didn’t want to spend the money so thank you!!
Sandy, keep in mind my attempt to solder failed, but I was using what I had which is a 60/40 rosin core solder that I typically use when repair ing guitars… best of luck in your repair!
There is a plastic air flow panel that needs to be removed for this job, it has two actual bolts and some of those plastic fasteners. Draining the radiator was a waste of time, because there was a lot of coolant behind the thermostat. I was expecting it and had a washtub under it. That empties very fast. My hoses are in good shape so I just left the hose attached to the housing cover. Not a bad job, much easier than changing a headlight bulb. Thanks for your video!
Richard, glad it went well for you and hopefully my video gave you an idea of the level of effort? I had removed that stock plastic “skid” under my Outback years ago and have a beefier aluminum skid plate from Primitive Racing that provides more substantial protection off-road. That’s why I didn’t show removal of the stock plastic unit.
@@MattsGarageMiscDIY Your video was helpful and I hope I did not sound dissatisfied. I watched a couple of videos about this job and in one of them some guy was struggling to get a wrench on one of the bolts because he was doing the job with that skid plate in place. My comment about not draining the radiator was to point out the fact of the thermostat being on the bottom of the engine rather than the top, like I am used to. I am 67 years old and have been a mechanic/machinist for most of my life. I usually can figure things out. I watch these videos to save me some effort and time. Thanks again for your effort, I do appreciate it and your time.
Thank you for this easy to follow video. I inherited an Intex when we bought our house, so videos like yours have really helped me keep up with maintenance.
Man, I owe you a case of beer. You just solved my problem. I have now tried 3 times to make my new pump play nice with my intex system, and right now it's just dripping. The key, for me, was to use the 1 1/2 to 1 1/4 bushing with the original screw, that's just genius if you ask me, if I knew where you lived, I would ship beer to you.
Thaks Matt! Very nice video and part/tool links! And you are correct, getting those two terminals off of my thermal fuse was hard!!! I kept thinking there may be a locking clip -but no, just need to carefully pry off with a flathead screwdriver.
Just repaired my dryer using the tips from this video and the comments.... The hard part for me was getting the leg on the relay hot enough to accept the solder
i just cleaned mine, and i thought it was dry enough to go in, it completely restricted air flow...is this just cause its not fully dry? did you notice that at the beginning when you first got it?
Have you found a solution to the problem? I have the same issue and I just don't wanna drill extra holes. There are Graph Tech ratio tuners for 150 $ or Tone Ninja ones for 50 $. In both cases shipping to Europe is an addiotnal 30-35 $ on top :/
I ended up selling this guitar and left the stock tuners in place. I have on another Squier updated to the Fender Locking tuners, plugged old holes, drilled new ones using the StewMac jig. Came out great but takes some time.