You’re the only one so far on RU-vid, I found that shows the Buick Rendezvous exhaust system. Rendezvous must never have exhaust problems. I got broken crossover bolt and my Rendezvous sounds like crap.
I think the color-coded link is just an artifact of the manufacturing process, they use color-coded links for the OHC motors. I did put it so that if faces 'outboard' away from the motor, but I don't think it matters. Also, van has run at least 4000 miles now, not using oil, no issues that I've heard of...my son is using it for school/work, driving around to hospitals in central IL.
@@elmarko9051 Ok, yea i noticed that on the OHC's it has to line up, just wanted to make sure. The original chain didn't have it on mine so it kind of threw me off. These motors are bulletproof so I can imagine yours is still going strong, good to hear 👍🏼. I'm putting one together for my 04 Monte Carlo, i appreciate your response, Thanks again 💪🏼💯.
Well u really mean is that u had a no cranking problem. There's a difference in no crank and no start. No crank means when u turn the key the vehicle says nothing. No start means u turn the key and the engine turns but won't run.
I have almost the exact same chipper/shredder. My Renegade came with an 8hp Tecumseh. I need a chipper chute but it looks like I'll have find someway or someone who can make one. Other than that, it's an old machine with an old engine that works like a champ, not like a Champion.😆 If you ever have to replace the engine, I believe the mounting specs for the 5 & 8 hp engines are the same. You'd have to check to be sure though.
Question, is it possible to develop a coolant leak back there? Got water pouring down from somewhere between engine and trans.. no oil leaking. Everything up top/under hood is dry, looks like the engine side of the flex plate is damp. Saw a little coolant on bottom of plate, along oil/trans pans, bottom area of starter, etc. No obvious culprit with mirror and light, but its a tight area. Been trying to find solid info before I go ripping trans out for no reason. Thx
The rear main seal cover has a gasket. There are two coolant holes up high. Yes, they can leak if either the timing cover is pitted/corroded, or the seal has gone bad. But up higher the lower intake manifold gasket can leak down the rear of the motor, so you'd want to rule that out first.
The way the manual reads, for 2001 and later...small = 20 Ft-Lbs, medium and large fasteners 41 Ft-Lbs. From personal experience, a lot of the timing cover bolt have short heads, so you really have to have a 6-point socket on them, and push down on the torque wrench so you don't round off the flats.
@@rumblertag1419 Not RTV or loctite, use Permatex thread sealant 59124. You can usually tell which bolts had sealant on them before as they will have a white colored patch on the threads. Generally the fasteners next to the coolant ports would get the sealant.
The EGR heat shield is held on with 2-3 fasteners. At 1:11 there is an 'ear' on the lower left of the screen, that is one of the holes for the screws. I think they all use a 10MM socket.
...holy moly, that's one hell of an Undertaking. I've been needing to replace my lower control arms on my 2004 Rendezvous CX, but I've been procrastinating for over a year, because I know how tough it is to do the job with out a lift and air tools. 🤔
Hi, the rear manifold has a flange with two studs. The tailpipe assembly has through-holes, and 13mm nuts hold it together. It could be easy to break loose or multiple shots of penetrating oil and/or torch heat. Good luck!
Thanks for sharing this sort of repair. What was the mileage on the engine? Did she come from Towanda? The LA1 timing chain in our ‘02 Silhouette looked okay at 110k, but needed a new gasket after the head gaskets were done. Still need to replace the pesky oil pan gasket. I’ve wondered if some of these engines were better than others. Any survivors now must be good. Again, a great fan of your LX9 conversation. Our Silhouette is the best pickup truck ever as she is cheap and keeps furniture dry. These are definitely under appreciated as they do a lot of work for little money. Kids loved the beach vacation in our comfy Silhouette.
Model year 2000 and up the OEM Mahle head gaskets were reliable. All mine made 190k miles or more before either failing or preventative replacement. Outside this chain I never put in a timing set on any of the others. There are 3100/3400 that just seem cursed though. That's why I swapped one.
Thank you for the video! Tips after I completed this job: 1. Take front left tire off. 2. Use a longer wrench and hammer from the wheel well area to get the one bolt off. I had my brother outside of the car in the wheel well and I was under the car looking at the bolt. 3. You can remove the clamp from the hose (goes to fluid reservoir) from the top of the engine bay without removing anything but the engine cover. 4. After you remove the old line, start routing the new line at the bolt side, thread it in (I had to use a 18mm wrench that I can’t in half from the wheel well area). 5. take pictures of where the original route is. 6. Wear safety goggles.
Great video. When I was in Auto tech school, they showed us that oils and petroleum can cause dramatic swelling of rubber brake system components, because the rubber is not compatible with oil. I would assume that is why they reccomend denatured alcohol instead of brake parts cleaner. When I was in school they emphasized brake parts cleaner is not safe for things in conact with brake fluid. I bought one of these recently and look forward to try it out. I bled my brakes by pump and bleed, and accidentally let air in 1 circuit. I tried bench bleeding my master with no luck to get it back to 100%, so looking forward to trying this. How were the results for you? Thanks J
I just did almost 100% new brake lines except past the drum brake proportioning valves on my 1998 Olds (it's the star of at least a couple of videos). Those lines were done be previous owner. The only residual fluid was in the ABS module. Master cylinder was dry as a bone. When the process was completed, the brake pedal was very firm, no issues. If you're going to do a 100% fluid change-over, and crack all 4 bleeders screws, I don't think bench bleeding the master cylinder is necessary. Good luck!
I appreciate your video however fortunately I read @dpratt2000 comments on FIRST removing the two Philips head screws on the far right of the grill (far right plastic trim has two slots on side in order to insert a Philips screwdriver) and pulling off the knobs. The metal face control panel then easily lifts out giving you full access to the igniter button (without removing the grey larger plastic button) and the burners. It is necessary to remove/loosen the two brackets holding the burners which are very easy to reach now that the metal control panel cover is removed. Makes the whole process of replacing the burners, crossover tube, and the igniter so much easier. Love our two burner Weber Genesis Silver grill. Still going strong since 2002 with a little TLC and replacement parts. Check this video out to see what 2 screws to remove FIRST. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-5E_yI-ACqrI.html
That’s where my Little back up replacement stocks should I ever need to replace mine in my 96 Park Ave. I have extras, which would be 6 in total wrench apart or a you pull your part I believe is the actual name of the salvage yard but it’s basically the same thing and eBay any salvage yard with probably any Buick from the 90s or Oldsmobile and Cadillac probably even a Chevy caprice would have that little stock part on the mirror it’s a pretty common part shared by the majority of the cars midsize to full-size GM vehicles Cadillac Oldsmobile, Buick Pontiac, and then your regular Chevy caprice from the 90s, especially if it has the power mirrors option which the majority of the Buick and Cadillacs and Oldsmobiles did especially the higher trims of the Oldsmobiles and Buicks and the Pontiac Bonneville from the mid 90s
6mm Imbus at the Top of the Strut? I have a 7mm there... a very unusual Imbus we dont have in countrys with metric sytems... also my struts coming w/o the nut for the GM Tool...otherwise a great explaining... thx
Generally, people state the socket/wrench sized needed for the bolt head or nut removal. 6 or 7mm sounds like a thread size. This strut style was unique to GM in the 90's, and only certain cars.
@@elmarko9051 Thanks. I get a rubbing sound/feel sometimes when I turn sharp even though my tires seem to have plenty of clearance. I thought it might be a power steering shudder that feels like something rubbing and wondered if you were experiencing something similar. Guess not. Thanks for clarifying!
You make this look so hard , the body was droped over the engine with shock control towers mounted and sitting on the tube under carrage. Lots of fun going back>.
For people without a lift, taking the motor out the top is so much easier than jacking up the vehicle 24" in the air, then wrangling the cradle/engine/trans on the floor out from under the vehicle. There was a video years ago starring a Pontiac Aztek, where the fellow pulled the motor out the top, but only after removing the heads. If you want the motor out with a minimum of stuff to remove, in my opinion, my video shows the best method. Dropping the 3500 back in was challenging, but very do-able, all without a lift.
Seen the 3800sc in the vans. The only issue I see is the VersaTrack system can't handle that level of power. I've got a 3800sc ready to go for my 1998 regency, just need the time.
@@gpgt1 The 3400 to 3500 swap requires that the front bracket be ground down in a couple of key spots so the AC compressor can be bolted on, but it's more on the engine side of the bracket that needs the modification. For my Oldsmobile Regency, it will be a 3800 to 3800SC swap, that will require very few things to swap over, some vacuum lines, etc., but it will need a custom PCM. Swapping in a 3800/SC in place of a 3400, there is a video with a ~2003 Pontiac Montana where a guy did that. I think he brought everything over, PCM, engine, trans, etc.
@El Marko I have a series 3 from a 2017 but my Buick is also 2017 so that makes it much easier. I have the PCM but I still need a retune to use my original transmission. I've run a top swapped 3800 but the grand prix I had it in was already a GTP.
Thank you for an informative and concise video. About to change power steering pump and both lines on my wifes 2011 Lucerne. Some great tips here. Just wish you could have been a bit more descriptive in the actuall removal and reinstallation of the lines.
I just bought and used this. Main things are that it's stable, maneuverable, and lifts to over 2' in height, which is good for driveway R&R's. Easy to use. The strap is useless, there's no room in the transmission tunnel to operate the ratchet/latching mechanism. And it would have been helpful if the platform tilted side-to-side as well as fore-aft. Also if the tilt had some form of mechanical assist; jacking bolt. I may modify mine for future use.
