Hello! I think you have a great design, here. Could you point me in the direction of your 1" pulley. After hours of searching I can't find one anywhere.
The original router plate was made from 1/4" plywood. The dimensions were somewhat arbitrary but I traced the router base mounting holes to align the ply to the router, then traced the plate on the table to cut it out so it could recess into the 3/4" table. I installed 1/4" threaded inserts www.amazon.com/Furniture-Threaded-Insert-Nutsert-Connector/dp/B07Q6HKK45 into 3/4" plywood mounted below the table at the corners and mid points and ran 1/4" bolts into them as levelers. Hope that answers your question.
THANKS SO MUCH KENT for a magnificent removable, portable, storable, and nice router table on a Workmate 400! Very good implementation. May I suggest you to make your own table inserts from several plies of fiberglass Circuit Board material glued together with epoxi... Those end up being very stiff and easy to make. The first one I made, was to replace the very flimsy insert on my inexpensive table jigsaw, which was made form cheap plastic and flexed too much! Since it was kind of thin, I reinforced it by placing fiberglass cloth plies between the PCB plies, and it ended up very stiff and precise. Best wishes! Alfredo M. Claussen, Mexico City.
Pity about the music/noise I would rather listen to the narrative or the sound of working machines. Why do you think it is necessary to play your kind of music I just have to turn the noise down. Shame spoils the show!
Thank You for this fine video. I wish you were my neighbor so I could learn a lot from you. I am in my 80th year, and really enjoy seeing new approaches taken by craftsmen! I came from a time when all of this was not available, so it just makes life much sweeter to be so privileged.
I love my Workmate but i always thought it was too low to route comfortably, so I have my router in a stand that i clamp to the top of the Workmate. So much nicer to use that way.
Great job! I too like to use craps to make projects. I would really love to make one, but i have a question.. do you have bearings or something between the square tubing and angle iron? I;m curious on how it moves so smooth. Thanks in advance!
just needs a stop on the fence for continuous drilling of the same hole in multiple small pieces think a small wood blok with a sawcut halfway through and a bolt in the back part to clamp it to the fence
*comes ready to use out of the box and does an amazing job of cut quality>>>**ur2.pl/782** It's easy to use and matches what you would expect from a Dewalt product. It's super easy to move from angle to angle on the cuts with a simple flip of the knob in front. I think the one thing that would be nice is if the dust catcher could hold more and caught more but it's a saw and I've never seen a good solution for dust management. this thing has no problem going through 4x4; 2x4; PVC pipe; or 2x6 at any angle I've thrown at it.*
I have an old AEG mitre stand for 9" grinder and it's practically impossible to cut a good 45 degree angle, chiefly because the blade flexes and moves off course, especially as for eg with square tubing the first contact is made on a corner and it gets worse from there.
Hey Paul, I know what you mean. I use the slider by gently cutting the entire length of the cut using gentle pressure with multiple horizontal passes. This seems to minimize blade deflection.
can i ask somethign?? why you use tube inside a ( plastic) cylider? what is the difference if u used tubes over a rectangular tube?whats the gain on a cylnder over a cylinder? more solid movement??
Antonis, my objective with this project was to use scrap material I had kicking around the shop and the PCV conduit was chosen because I think it introduces less friction on the metal rods passing through. In answer to your question I think you can use any stock or shape of stock for the slider. Hope that helps. Happy making!
