I have the same issue with my 2010 F150 pickup. Would you share the link to the video you watched showing the operation of the diverter? Thanks for showing this fix.
I'm having the same problem now in my '13 Lariat. Nothing rattling around in the motor - but I'm going to check this first and sure hope it's as easy as you make it look. Would be great if you remembered what size sockets everything was :)
I didn’t have anything rattling around in the blower either. I actually thought it was the motor since there was no noise. It’s a simple fix and I haven’t had any problems since I did this, but unfortunately I don’t remember the socket sizes. I should have added those to the video.
@@bombsuitstobreadboards6279 No worries, I think I used 8mm when I did this on Sunday. It was a son of a gun but I was able to jam a couple of wedges of swimming pool noodle foam in the smallest frame spots to (hopefully) keep the door in place. Once I put everything back on - A/C was ice cold again and not sucking the hot-as-hell humidity in with it.
Thanks! I just did this using some scrap pipe insulation, works great! I also wedged a block of wood under it to hold it up while I got the screws baxk in if that helps anyome.
The thing about those units and the reason the gear breaks is because it uses a torque sensor to turn the flap motor off. So when you hit the recirculate button the motor starts and will continue to run until the flap can no longer move any further and torque increases on the motor. When that gear breaks the motor is free to continue running forever basically. If you use this method to wedge the flap, you may want to disable the motor.
muchas gracias amigo logre resolver, de repente comenzaron a ingresar malos olores y poco enfriamiento del sistema, y no sabia como repararlo, pero ahora si gracias a ti, saludos desde Venezuela
Anyone having the issue of turning on the A/C at a 1-2 fan speed setting and the air recycler button turning on by it self? You turn it off and it turns back on??
The 5601 part number is the identical connector but wired correctly. I was getting confused why crutchfield was showing 2 different speaker harnesses for my f150, but this video made it all make sense
After doing this does anyone else have the issue of the recirc motor constantly running? I’m guessing it thinks it’s stuck closed. Maybe disconnect the motor?
Come in between gas pedal and brake with a small extension and there will be no reason to remove gas pedal. Great video overall, just wanted to share another way to go about it.
This issue just started for me in my 2014. The biggest help out of all the videos I’ve seen. Is that you showing the part number. lol. Huge!! Thanks for the info brother!!!
I have found videos showing the actuator on Driver side in 3 places. This is the easy access one. One version, (centered and low vs this being slightly driver side and high) you have the choice of cutting the floor vent in half or taking the entire dash out. Another, close to the same location, the vent can be pulled down enough to get the actuator out and replace it. All 3 the same year. Different trim packages. Passenger side actuator is same place all 3 versions. Hoping mine turns out to be this version... Good chance as the hard versions are usually in the fancier trim packages.
Center and low with having to take the dash out or cut the floor vent sounds like you’re talking about the blend door actuator, not the mode actuator. The blend door is a different part number than this (YH1933). There’s 3 actuators in the dash; Mode, Blend, and Recirculation, all with different part numbers. I don’t have the auto-temp control, so there may be an extra or different part number for that trim level as well.
@@bombsuitstobreadboards6279 Difference in driver side actuator locations is interior trim/options package, not engine. Looks to be same actuator for the 3 possibe positions.
@@fhuber7507I believe all three actuators would be different as they are on my 2011 f150. Totally different part numbers and different mounting tab configuration.
Thanks for the video! I recently removed the broken recirculation door gear from the blower motor and fixed the really loud noise. I left the recirculation door as it was and put everything back together. I now have a faint buzzing noise that is present for the first few minutes of starting the truck and again after I turn off the truck. Is this the recirculation door actuator that is still trying to open/close the recirculation door? If so, is there a way to unplug the recirculation door actuator or a fuse to disable it? Thank you for the help!
It could be from the actuator motor, but it could also be from one of the other two actuators. The one that is right above the gas pedal, which changes which vents the air comes out of, went out on my truck and caused some loud clicking noises when I turned the truck on. I did a video on changing that out as well. Next time you start the truck, see if you can determine where in the dash that noise is coming from. And to answer your question, yes, if that motor is your problem, you can reach up in there and unplug it.
@@bombsuitstobreadboards6279 I figured it out. The buzzing noise was the recirculation door actuator that was continuing to turn. I was able to unplug it by just reaching up from the bottom (next to the blower motor) with my left arm. To unplug it, you have to first pull out the red tang, then depress the flange on the connector with one finger, then pull out the connector. After unplugging, no more buzzing sounds! Note, I also took off the small side panel between the glove box/air bag and the passenger door so I could see what I was doing back there. Hope this helps someone.
I’m with you. Learned to drive on dad’s bumpside and have always had an Fseries in the fleet, but this 2014 has had nothing but problems inside the dash. Recirc flapper, driver’s side vent door actuator, infotainment screen all have failed. The only silver lining is there are so many Fseries trucks with these failures that there are youtube videos like this one on how to fix them.
Thanks so much I wish I could buy you a beer 🤣 I just fixed mine after noticing cold air wasn’t really coming thru and I could smell the soap during a Carwash
Actually it cycles for a few mins then stops. I have a raptor and couldn’t tell while it’s running from the noise but seems to do it on every key on and off. Might try and just disconnect the motor
@@xschm1dx yes I can hear it but I just ignore it doesn’t really bother me but you should be able to disconnect it the only reason I didn’t it’s because I didn’t want the system to give me any errors or disable the recirculation button
Thank you for the information. I swear I thought I taped it closed but went to look and it was open. 106 degrees here in south texas. Fresh air was not cutting it. Great informational video and saved my melting arse.
Definitely, the fresh air doesn’t help at all in the summer in Arizona either! My AC has been nice and cold ever since I did this though. Hope yours works just as well!
My clicking was only 2-3 times per second, but that definitely the part that failed. Unplugged it and the sound quit. Been searching for the part number everywhere, thank you for this.
Thank you for your response quick question.. Couldn't I just clip it in the way it is to the factory harnes.. when I put the Terminals on to the speakers I clipped them correctly the positive to the positive the negative to the negative.. I'm assuming Wire Is all the same underneath.. The color coding is just to make it that much easier. ??
Ya, you could always swap the spade connections on the speaker instead of swapping the pins. For mine, those spade connections were too small for the spades on the speaker, so once they were on there I would have had to really deform or break them to get them off. So in my case it was easier to just swap the pins. But you are correct, the wire color doesn’t matter, they all conduct electrical signals, you just want to make sure each end of the same wire is connected to the right polarity contacts.
It’s not that hard, you just lift that plastic tab and pull the wire to get the pin out. I used a toothpick because that’s what I had laying around to grab real quick, but something like a dental pick or a small punch may be easier.
It’s not, this is for air recirculation. I can’t help what RU-vid videos RU-vid shows you when you input search terms. If you don’t have much air coming through your vents when you put your fan setting on “high”, a very likely culprit is the blower motor resistor. If it’s not that, it could be the motor itself or it could be a blend door issue where it’s not routing the air where you want.
This is exactly what I was looking for thank you! I live in deep south east Texas I want all the cold ac I can get and want to keep the dirt roads out I only need recirculation not fresh I want fresh I can roll a few windows down for a minute on the high ways tada all the fresh air you want lol
Thank you, thank you!! I didn't see this video until after I removed the plastic piece that broke off the vent door. I was stuck in traffic during a 4 hour drive and smelled heavy exhaust fumes!! I just found your video and will be performing your procedure this week on my truck. Thanks again!! 🎯💯
That’s great if it was already correct for you, easy day! I probably should have been more specific in the title that this is for a 2013 F-150 XLT. Wiring harnesses can be different on different packages even within the same year, so you definitely want to verify on your vehicle.
The model for the harness adapter is in the description of the video. If you’re talking about the actual wiring harness on the truck, I linked that in a reply to another comment as well.
Watching the video again, that is the rear driver’s side door, and that wire looks like white/green with the other being brown/yellow. I’m not sure if it was this door because it was a while ago, but I remember thinking my positive wire color didn’t match up to the diagram exactly, but my negative color did. Looking at it now, it looks like I probably caught the color in a bad light and thought it was blue instead of green. I got the wiring diagram from the link below, but make sure it matches your truck because they are different for a variety of reasons, even in the same year. www.justanswer.com/ford/ayf8w-looking-wiring-diagram-2013-f150-xlt-stereo-drivers.html
Thanks, In just fixed my 2012 Raptor. Places 2 pieces of fuel line, they held the door up in the recirculating position and removed the broken plastic piece from the blower motor. It works great now. 🙌🏼
Replacing the door requires removing the dash and evacuating the A/C. It’s estimated to be like a 10 hr job for a professional mechanic. However, there is a RU-vid video about replacing it without removing the dash, that you may be able to do. Not sure what the part number is because you buy the entire setup and then just remove the door flap and swap it out.
Ya, that has happened to me before with another vehicle, but it threw a code so it was much easier to diagnose. This one didn’t throw any codes and ended up being the fuel pump relay module, so it was a super simple fix once I found it.
Hey, guessing your a tech based on your RU-vid channel name - help a fellow tech out? Was a symptom of this failing, your climate control being uncontrollable? Meaning no ability to direct air to feet, defrost etc.
Ya I’m a tech, but only part time now. Haha traded in the suit for an air conditioned office and engineering software. My only symptoms for this was that when I thought it was on re-circ, I could still smell everything outside the truck, and then when I pushed the button nothing changed. No noise or sound whatsoever. Yours sounds like the actuator under the dash near the gas pedal. I actually just changed mine out because it was failing and it started clicking every time I turned the truck on and it tried to function. I have some videos on that one too that I need to compile and post, and it has the part number in it. I’ll get that posted in a couple hours if you wanna check back! Gotta wax my snowboard first! Haha
I live in Arizona so I wouldn’t be the best person to ask about this, however, I just spent a few days up north in the cold and snow and didn’t have any issues with it. When it’s cold, I typically remote-start my truck and let the heater warm up though, so it might be different if you just get in and try to drive right away.
Thank you for clearly demonstrating the pin removal and install procedure. I’ve watched a number of videos in which “pinning” was glossed over leaving me baffled…SUB’d peace out..:)