So my 2 cents time is everything to me . I looked at this project for my tractor but in all honesty 285 . For a plate 2 to 500 for a not so great shape used blade . 100 to 200 in steel and 8 hours of time . Or for 1380. I could buy the whole thing brand spanking new with hydraulic cylinder and hoses I can not build one for the price I can buy one at .
gads thats awesome I am drooling as goes if you got the steel to spare I could probably come up with it now the build itself I hate to think what all that cost and then their is the vise wow I like it
Thanks. I used a lot of steel on this project but I am glad that I did because it's exactly what I wanted. The forks were in the scrap bin. The vise was a facebook marketplace find. I always keep my eyes out for deals!
Thanks. It was originally to move those concrete pads in this video. Then it was used for lifting a propane tank in this video. It is really versatile. m.ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-u6lgwN0jOwQ.html
@@jerrynorris1397 tractor needs maintenance, fuel, working battery that you need to keep charged, keep from cold and buy new one after every 4-7 years, it does not.
The angle appears to be 45 degrees or more so it does little more than add weigh. They should be 40 degrees or less. I had that same welder in the 80s and it was fantastic. I had it on an old creaper the rollers had broke. I used the back half to roll it around. I did add a 25' lead but that also reduces the welders effectiveness. I have a Hobart with the same capabilities now and I use a #10 solid wire extension cord and a dolly I made.
That is a VERY mobile gantry crane. Not just sitting on some casters that will only roll on smooth concrete. We shared this video on our homemade tools forum last week 😎
Hey cool! Can you provide a link? I’d like to see that. The crane was designed this way simply because I had lots of this pipe on hand for cheap and the mobile home axle. I needed a way to lift the concrete pads into the shed. Lifting a propane tank in a later video proved its usefulness too. I have noted that an adjustable height hitch is necessary to keep the crane perpendicular to the ground. Break away chains are another addition to add…
Being a retired STATE CERTIFIED WELDER ( retired ) I would like to complement you on your skill and craftsmanship. I have been a blacksmith for over 40 yrs and this is one of the best stands I have had the pleasure of looking at. You mentioned that moving was a issue . This is some advice you might want to consider ,Get yourself some old steel wheels ( casters) and mount them on each corner so this stand can be moved easily . Make some " L " slots on each corner so the casters can be slid in and held in place with a pin. Once in place, remove the pin and pull the casters out of the slots. Now the stand is back to the build height. Be sure ( 2 ) casters are swivel or use ( 4 ) swivels on all four corners. I hope this helps . You did a very nice job!! Keep up the good work. Sincerely ,DUKE
Thanks Duke! In my shop, the jib crane lifted it no problem. In the garage, I lifted it with a tractor straight down to the ground and towed it into place on cardboard to prevent scratching the concrete. Castors is a great idea! I will keep an eye out for some vintage ones. Moving it closer to the door for grinding or smokey work would be ideal!
That's what we call craftsmanship. Its very appealing to the eye, raw finish was definitely a good call. Slick idea with the fixture plate, and countersinks! With or without the vise, it'd be a sweet addition to any garage.
You could make a double impact on thin stiffeners by heating then before you press them; do them hot to make it easier, then quench them. Give them a day to rest, then heat them to a straw color, (dbl chk my ancient memory), & let cool. During the day of rest, drill mounting holes... or buy some carbide bits.. LOL I got tired of the ridiculous price of acetylene a few years back & tried the cheap propane hot roof blow torch I bought 10-15 yrs ago for some hot tar repair. It's my go to metal heating tool; it's fast & a dang sight cheaper for propane. Be careful working by anything wood, though, it puts out a surprisingly LARGE area of heat... I discovered just how large when I caught the neighbor's cedar fence on fire a couple years ago. It was easily 8ft away, but right in the 'line of fire'. Only scourched my side, & he didn't know until he was over asking me to fix something free, again, and said, what happened? Oh, remember that part you wanted me to make? I needed some charcoal... Delivered it w/ a straight face, & he's never mentioned the fence, again. The real punchline is it only scorched it a bit & there is a friggin' gram, if that of 'charcoal'; thought for sure he'd call BS.
Dude.. I Love your build! Ive been pondering for the longest time on building a gantry for my shop but still havent decided.. I love the mobility of yours!! I have three chainfalls from 1000 lb to 1 big harington 3 tonner so not short on chainfalls. What do you think max is on yours? I also looked at "YT Cut & Weld gantry build" that kids perty smart too!! Thanks for the build! L.T. Dan
Thanks! The flaw with this design is hitch height causing the legs to be angled. That can be remedied with an adjustable hitch though. I really like the gantry cranes in junk yards that look like a shop crane but with brush hog wheels for casters. I would prefer something like that for outside work and put a hitch on the side of the A frame leg.
This is the second video I've seen where the chain is used for something it's not intended for, the chain is for hydraulic lift and float, your loader has hydraulic lift and float already built in.
Hey there, can you tell me what STIs you used when changing to a drop bar? I have a Shimano altus 3x7 on my track multitrack from 1996 and would like to keep it if possible. Thanks!
Nicely done. I have a 1998 F150 4.6 5 spd 3dr. Yours was actually slightly more rusty than mine. I didn't think that was possible! HAHA. I didn't take many pics of mine unfortunately. What type of steel did you use for the frame repair? I have a couple areas I need to patch and wouldn't mind any advice if you have it? Thanks.
Thanks for watching. I used 12ga sheet metal and had a shop press brake it for me. Main thing with the splice is fishplates and running the weld bead away from the joint to prevent crack. I was worried about getting the frame aligned perfectly straight. It might have been off an 1/8”-1/4” but I drove it thousands of miles after this repair and it was fine. Unfortunately the center of frame was very rusty right under cab. It got worse after this repair. The truck is now used for logging/firewood off road only. It has held up really well still.
Thanks for this vid! I need to shave costs on a trailer build where possible, and this will definitely help with that. What gauge steel did you use? Does the gauge really matter much?
This is what I do, i make a lot of railings. Setting the posts in concrete is the worst way to mount a rail. I use a 3" square plate with 4 holes welded to the bottom of each post. Another good practice is to drill a weep hole in the base of the post.
