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Thank You for sharing this really well thought out, and sensibly described video with us. I'm presently building a "The Edge Products" Buggy, which utilises a motor cycle engine. I may need to use a header tank (and an expansion tank), as I'm trying to keep the weight (including the radiator), as low as possible in the frame/chassis. Regards Johno
secrete here on why this works with PTFE small hoes and not standard steel braided small hoses... is the design of the nut's to move toward the end.. and not the nut going toward the middle. It pushes the braid down instead of wanting to bunch up the braid. On standard Rubber- braided lines the nuts are universal for Steel and Braided... and.. if was a flare at end like these nuts it would likely work. IF they; Like PTFE desing the nut was installed first before cutting.... and forced the braid down as it tightend on the fitting. this would certainly work. As desined though with Rubber Braided. the nut bunches up the braid's and is a royal PITA. You can mitigate past that issue with superglue on 6an and larger braided hoses before tape; then cutting. On braided hose ALWAYS, no matter how good you are ai it... wants to flare out some. hence why superglue helps.. For steel braided.... it is the ONLY way to do it successfully IMHO!!! BUTTTT On 4an and lower.. forget it.. that wont help you. Sill frays out just enough that you will NEVER get the nut on Steel Braided. The common generic fittings sold for rubber braided lines; without the end of the nut having a magic flared end; like PTFE nuts; on small lines. it ain't going to happen. With superglue and Nylon Braided.. I bet you would be ok on small lines. I've not tried 4an nylon braided; only 4an steel braided; with ZERO success . Have done 10an nylon and 6an steel successfully with Superglue method.
Excellent video and has helped me a lot. I'm installing air lines off a compressor I've bought and some second hand air tools - all sorts of fitting sizes on them. I will buy a thread gauge off you and a chart. Threads are a nightmage particularly the tapered threads. I get frustrated when I am ignorant of facts ! Cheers.
I just bought a flaring tool from Amazon. It does 3/16 and 1/4". The OP1 is pointed at the pointed end not the cupped end. This is wrong according to your video. I guess they marked the dies wrong?
Can this tool be used to join two pipes, mating a single flare to a double flare, using a male and female fitting, or do you have to use a dedicated inline fitting?
Glad I watched this. Too much drilling, riveting and fitting for my application , back to recessed rivet nuts for me ( One hole you're done ) :) Very well presented. Thank you.
I was thinking the same thing, I figured these fasteners should be simple - they’re far from it. Really just needs too much to install a single fastener.
Assuming the difference in size isn't offset by narrower tires, yes. If it's a different overall diameter, the speedo needs to be adjusted or it will be inaccurate.
Yes, the bigger the tyre the faster your Speedo will read compared to the actual speed your travelling. You can set tyre sizes in some computers, some vehicles will throw codes for abs, traction control etc if you don't as the wheel speed sensor will be going a different speed then it is supposed to.
I have a pressed ss brake hose kit on my car. One of them started leaking. So I learned from this and other similar videos that I can just make my own ss brake hose cheaper than the ready pressed ones, which are now super expensive, thanks to the inflation. So I bought 1m an3 hose, shortened it down via taping and angle grinder and installed the fittings to the ends. Everything looked just fine. After I installed the hose to my car and started braking, both sides of the hose leaked from the fittings/olives and that's it. I bought a regular rubber hose and not a single problem! I think I'm done with these type of hoses. The pedal feel is worse but they're not overpriced and also, there is no risk of leaking. Never has been.
I have a question: how could the coolant in the expansion tank possibly be drawn back into the header tank or radiator? If you look at your pressure cap, there is a little brass disc in the middle of the tip which looks just like the anti vacuum one-way valve. These are fitted to stop a vacuum occurring which prevents collapse of the rubber hoses. So without a vacuum to suck back the coolant it would remain in the expansion bottle.
When the system heats, the water expands, pushing some out, past the cap valve. As the water cools it contracts, this will then create the vacuum you are refering to. Provided that the hose on the radiator overflow is in the bottom of the overflow tank then the same vaccum will suck the water back in the same way it went out.
