So sometimes the agitator plate is stripped itself if the whole drum is not spinning then the drive block is tripped If the agitator plate is kind of loose wiggling around you'll definitely going to have to replace it
@@myappliancefixed I tried to remove the bottom plate and couldn't get the bolt out. I literally removed every visible screw on the bottom side of the washer and it still wouldn't budge. SO I got a new washer. Problem solved! lol
I pressed the reset button and can hear the water but it’s not getting to the tray. I then noticed water leaking behind my fridge. I noticed water coming out of the orange line behind the fridge. Any ideas?
Not a very common situation. This code means that the water wall arm cannot find the right position. I'm not sure why it does it one minute from the end of the cycle. Since it's washing fine I think it'll be a different problem than the motor. Would need to test the unit and all the components. I think there is a switch on the motor that arm knows when it returns into the starting position. Possibly could be an issue with the switch
I'm having the same problem...how do you remove the base? Is it more of a problem to remove it or what tools do you use to get those screws out without removing it? I'm trying to do it from the side but not enough room to do it.
Any idea what to do if its not making ice even after the test? I tried using a hair dryer to no avail. I've done everything but turn the firdge off (Which is unreasonable) Same exact model
If during the test it spins around and fils up with water the. But doesn't make ice You will need new ice maker. Assuming it's cooling properly. Get 5$ Amazon thermometer make sure It gets to 0 in the freezer. Make sure ice maker Is on on the display. Before you replace icemaker
So ours the tray disconnected and fell off and it started dumping water out into the bin and we would just get a big block of ice. Thanks to your video I noticed there is an off button to stop it from making ice, I was worried I would be having to keep de-freezing. We have someone coming till next week hope they are able to fix it. Thanks!
So this one was bad switch in the door latch assembly. None of the tests were working. All the loads are going through the one of the switches. There's one switch that registers the door open and close and another switch that allows power go through to the the rest of the components and that's the one that was bad.
So this one was bad switch in the door latch assembly. None of the tests were working. All the loads are going through the one of the switches. There's one switch that registers the door open and close and another switch that allows power go through to the the rest of the components and that's the one that was bad.
I think OEM pump is about $80 It might be worth repairing to replace it is very simple you can do it yourself It doesn't involve pulling out the dishwasher
I had the same issue. This part was full of ice. I ended up running hot water through it in the bathtub. I got it all hooked up again, but I want to ask: Is it normal for the airflow to the fridge to be really weak? Is there a second fan in the bottom somewhere or is it just the one fan in the freezer that blows air to both? Thanks for your time
Usually is pretty a weak airflow. You don't need a lot of air to cool the fresh food section. Also, there's a chance of The return went to be frosted up to be sure. I recommend unplugging the refrigerator for 24 hours and leaving all the doors open
@@myappliancefixed thanks for the answer! My fridge has been working perfectly since I wrote my earlier comment, but I will unplug it for a day later on in the future just to make sure any ice is melted.
Thank you for the clear video and instructions! I had a repair guy come out twice, and he wanted to replace the main board and the control board at over $400 (at which point I could get a new dishwasher), but my dad thought it was the sensor and sent me the part and your video. I have petite hands, so I was able to pull out the dishwasher about 6 inches (after turning off power of course), and reach it through the side. It worked! For anyone having the issue, I was not getting the H20 error and all diagnostics were coming back normal, but it would periodically get stuck on drain cycle, at the beginning or in the middle of the cycle.
Where you able to fix this problem? I have been with this issue for 2 years having to manually press the reset button around 3 times a day in order to produce ice manually. It is not dispensing automatically.
Four times per day is pretty good. I guess it could be an issue with your cooling if it's not as cold. Set the freezer temperature colder try that first
I’m working on a similar issue on the same machine different model. I sounded like the Mode shifter was getting stuck. I sprayed some grease on it and so far so good 👍 two loads down anyway
Likely the same problem on my 2 year old GE Dishwasher that gets stuck on drain mode when initiating Start of wash cycle. My research for a DIY fix says if that does not fix it, ... then try a new control board. Thanks for lesson.
Pretty sure this is the problem on my two year old GE Dishwasher that is stuck on drain mode when I push the start button. Got a replacement coming. My research for a DIY fix says the other possible issue could be the control board. I go with the easy fix options 1st. Thanks for the lesson. 🙂
Thanks so much for this. My off grid unique stove would just click and click forever and never light. A quick clean with some steel wool and its good as new. Saved my wife much frustration laying on the floor trying to light the stove and finally giving up and going to her mother's to cook. 😅
Thank you for the video. On the Subzero website it indicates this board was substituted to part #7041553. Is 7028329 the newer version of the control board? My refrigerator works fine, but the display went blank.
They both should work the substitute and The older version as well. If the refrigerator is still running and everything is cooling there is a small chance that the display board is bad and not the main control. Usually it's pretty hard to test that. Are the buttons responding and the noises from the display control when you're pressing buttons? if there is no response at all I would probably go with the main board most likely that one will be cheaper to try
@@myappliancefixed Thank you. The display shows nothing and does not respond to anything. It sounds like more of a display board issue than main control based on your comments. I have the same unit as you worked on in the video.
