Like following your build. At 4:15 should that cuf not be only halfway on the rib so the next cuff can also be supported by the cuff? Is the cuff at 5:05 not going to "float" now? Should that not be cut like you did later at 12:40?
@@coeniethomas1887 Thank you I appreciate the support, yes you are absolutely right. Once completed I made and installed my own angle to support that cuff. Otherwise it would be floating like you mentioned. With the second wing I cut that cuff a little shorter so they can both rest on the rib. All the learning curves!
I'm originally from South Africa, living in North West Canada now. The KFA kits were always very popular at airshow for any keen enthusiast wanting to build a plane.
Hey Brock, another option for bonding your cabin floor stiffeners would be 3M VHB double sided tape - used in the Aerospace industry - amazing product with huge range of dimensions, and "Click Bond" do self adhesive pads that work with "P" clamps also suitable industrial and defence applications, as you mentioned great to have options - the beauty of experimental, but! proceed / modify with caution Good Video. Cheers Glenn.
Hey Brock, as always interesting updates, the 20mm leading edge spacing tubes look to match the leading edge cuff inner radius profile better than the 12mm tubes, offering more support to the leading edge cuff. long video but great detail. Cheers Glenn
@@glennstocker487 The 20mm spacers do fit very good, the radius on the leading edge cuffs makes it very strong on its own without the spacers, but yes I do agree with you. I made this video an exception as there was so much to be said on just the one topic, for the rest I try keep them to 25 minutes maximum. Thank you for the compliments. Brock,
Also on the covering, if you spill any glue on the fabric then use the acetone or thinners and remove the spot(wipe it clean). All those spots will show through on the final paint so keep the fabric clean.
Make the wing tip angles a temp fit, remove once dry-fitted and cover the wing. Once covered you rivet the angles back on. That way you can finish the ends nicely and hold the fabric.
Great update Brock, good review of the iron, seems like a no brainer to purchase the right tool for the job. Fuel tank instal appears simple enough, there looks to be room enough up the the first rib to have a longer tank giving slightly more fuel capacity? the tanks look like they have a sump drain (water / sediment) installed at the inboard rear corner? Keep up the good work. Cheers. Glenn.
@glennstocker487 Thank you Glenn, always appreciate your positive comments. Exactly, the right tools end up giving back to you in the end. Fuel tank installation is very basic, just another task off the list. Very observant of you, yes you are correct. In fact I believe one Australian builder with an Explorer has done just that with his kit for extra endurance. Yes from factory the tanks have their fuel fittings and drain point installed already on the inboard section. Thank you Glenn, will keep pushing on. Brock,
I extended my Explorer tanks up to the rib, from memory it gave me an extra 18 litres about 9 litres a side. It doesn’t sound much but the extra fuel could be comforting in the north of our state (SA) also I don’t have to fully fill them if weight becomes an issue. Another great vid Brock please keep them coming
@@stevel1451 Good info thank you, and yes northern SA is very remote extra insurance. Would love talk about your build could I contact you at some point? Cheers Glenn, South Coast NSW.
Hey Brock great info keep the updates coming - finding your video's very informative and reassuring, one question / what are the fuel tanks made of ? they look to be a composite - perhaps fibreglass? if so how resistant are they to 10% ethanol fuel ? Cheers Glenn.
The tanks are composite, we use Derakane Momentum 470 -300 which is an epoxy vinyl ester resin used to manufacture storage tanks etc. You can Google the data sheet. It is the best you can get for this application.
@@kfatechnical Thanks Brock, yep - a quick www search & Derakane Momentum - 470 came up, all the info needed for piece of mind 👍. These KFA's just keep ticking every box ✅. Cheers Glenn.
Hi Brock, I've been away in NZ for the last 6 weeks (War Birds over Wanaka! just WOW!) just watched Video 5 - not boring at all, the more detail = the more reassured this is the kit is the way to go with, well done on the progress. I'll be in Maroochydor, 3rd week in June, I'll call first would very much like to come and have a look at your build,. again keep up the good work. Cheers Glenn - NSW south coast.
Hi Steve, Contact “Australian Aviation Distributors” we are on Facebook, also you can find us on Plane sales. As of next week the new website will be out too. Brock,
Good to see yor progressing Brock, I hope to be up your way a little later this year would love to have a closer look at your baby, I'm leaning toward the Safari XL, with the RAaus class "G" having been approved. Will be in touch. Cheers Glenn - South Coast NSW.
Hello Brock Rust protection is your goal..the means by which you accomplish that is not important. Its your project and experimental gives you the freedom to do things in your way. The black on yellow primer should help you find any light spots. Painting a fuselage is tedious and very time consuming but the results are worth the effort. I am restoring a 1946 Taylorcraft and we painted battleship gray over a white primer...with a spray gun...I think your method was the right choice.
Awesome glad I found this channel I just bought a KFA Safary The first one in the States I think.This will help me at building it .Ile be using the Jabiru 3300 with the water cooled heads.Thanks for vids.
Hey Brock, all good information appreciate the update, a "Handy Hint" consider loading your assembly manual onto a USB stick, pop down to Office Works, have them print a A3, or even a A2 hard copy and have them ring bind it, - much easier to interpret the images when they are larger thus avoiding mistakes. Cheers from the south coast NSW, Glenn.
Hey Brock, nice work, hey if it works - go for it, this is what "Experimental" is all about, even down to how your paint and protect. Do you know what the primer base paint is ? ie, - epoxy or acrylic ? Keep up the good work watching with interest. Cheers Glenn.
Im not an expert but it seemed to me that you landed with your nose wheel too low. You will damage your firewall and you are touching down faster than you need to.
Romeo Juliet Whiskey I found it a lot faster, agile and heavier in the controls as it's not push rod like the foxbat, will be sure to call in once I have my nav!
