thank you sir for clearing it up

This circuit is in connected in series right?

Where is part 4?

Yeah that was ace, thanks!

I'm definitely less intimidated by my switch panel now😂. I'm ready to add one with led lights and do away with my old toggle switch panel.

You sir were born to teach! I haven't seen many other content makers cover a specific topic with such incredible clear concise information. Neither have I seen anyone come up with such a wonderful model to help explain the where and why? I decided to put a second battery in my center console. I will be installing a fuse block to run my tinned wire to from some additional interior lights, a stereo and fans I will be installing. I have a large deep cycle battery that will be in a secured battery box. There will be one ground lead to the fuse block and one hot to a 60 amp thermal fuse breaker. Then from the 60 amp breaker to the fuse block. I can put whatever amp fuse I want right in the fuse block and there are LED red lights to show power for night. The console battery will have a charge lead coming out of the battery box as well so I can charge it without removing it. The fuse block will make wiring any add ons a breeze and keep everything neat and organized with minimal wiring confusion because every wire connection will be labled at the fuse block. The console battery will also be connected to a solar panel charging system with the panel mounted on top of the T top. Doing it myself it cost roughly $200.00 and most of that cost is from buying the solar set up. The nice thing about fuse blocks is you can run your fish finder gps off the same battery as everything else without interference because every connection is getting clean regulated power.

Good info.

OMG So thankful to have found a solution but please, in the future stop shaking and turning the item you are describing whilst you talk. Hold it front of you and point with a pen or similar object to the contact. I was 3 sheets of paper drawings trying to decide if you had the control panel upside down, back to front of a normal view. Confused? yeah. Do I have the drawing? yeah. Again so thankful for that.

Great explanation. Unfortunately, I was replacing an old deck connector and had to tighten the block screw after the connector was secured on deck. Trying to fit such a tiny screw, very close to the foot of the mast at deck level is challenging at best. I found the terminal block screw doesn't tighten, never tightens completely rendering the whole thing useless. Otherwise, a beautiful product.

This is really useful and informative set of videos, am working my way through them. Great thing about RU-vid once a video is up it's there for anyone to find.

Man. That blew my mind away. Thanks for giving me the confidence, I'm having anxiety over where and how to begin and then your series came along, I'll be rewatching these videos a lot😅. Thank you much

The potential load according to him is 30 A and the wire supports 30 A. I thought you generally wanted to only have 80% of the theoretical capacity and max. So I would think the wire should be enough to support 37.5 A, or essentially 40 A.

What was the all white wire for?

This is the way to do it. To me, the float switch should be separate from the switch on your dash. Float switch is for when the boat is left on the water unattended. Great video

This is by far the most easy understandable guide to boat electrics! Thank you so much for your videos! I would love to see more in this series :)

Thanks for your help

Thanks

Pretty good….BUT . The negative bus bar should be right beside the switch panel….it will become obvious to anyone actually doing a basic 12volt fit out.

Which voltage should I choose for a trimeran? 12, 24, 36 or 48? If it has twin 2000hp diesels and 5 800kw outboards what sort of capacity should the batteries have? Is lithium the lightest? Thanks Philip

What are your thoughts on putting a bus bar closer to the switch panel? also Using a fuse block and using 1 wire with 2 wires in it for Pos and Neg? Thanks for the series I'm finally getting less intimidated and looking forward to cleaning up the rat's nest situation I have under my center console boat.

Great follow up to your first video. I ran mine slightly different due to my setup on my fishing boat. I went pos bat, fuse, pump, neg split 1 through float to switch top position, back to ground, neg split 2 to switch down position back to ground. Much less wiring for me this way and taking advantage of 3 position switch.

how will I connect the 3 way splice waterproof for saltwater use?

Sorry if this is a dumb question. I don't have bus bars and my auto bilge has been disconnected for years. Can I just wire up a system completely isolated from everything else and keep the 3 way switch mounted near the stern near the battery compartment and pump? and run my pos / neg direct to the battery?

I've never wired a boat, I just find wiring interesting. Looks like once you've done a couple circuits, it becomes pretty repetitive. Positive -> Fuse/Breaker -> Switch -> Device -> Negative. Once you grasp that, you can easily add in whatever you need. One thing to consider is using a relay to switch higher current loads like motors, then a toggle/rocker switch to activate the relay. Saves your switch contacts a bit and may keep you from doing long runs of thick wire. Especially for motors, which are electrically spikey and noisy, a solid state relay may be the most reliable (the name brand ones), as opposed to running it through a toggle/rocker.

Bilge/float switch should be hardwired directly to the battery.

​ @BoatFittings (or anyone else who can answer this, thanks) Agree with all "positive" comments (sorry, couldn't "resist" ... damn, did it again! ;-) Question: Everything is great except the _switch panel_. The wires and connections on the back of it confuse me to no end. Could be the Chinese labeling or some wires being the wrong color or maybe it's just me. My basic confusion ... why is there a negative connection to the switch panel at all? In other words, why is that panel not solely on the positive part of this circuit (for one of the same electrical reasons that the master switch works on the positive side of the circuit)? Guess: I think the answer is that the switch panel is not functioning ONLY as a switch. If it were, you could have only positive in, only positive out, and the switches would interrupt the current or connect it when needed. However, only because those little bulbs are in the plastic switch housing (to indicate ON or OFF), each switch also becomes a load of its own. So, as a collection of little loads, the switch panel needs both positive and negative connections. Am I close?

I have two switches on this panel that don't work. The lights dead on the switch is it the switch or does it means the fuse is out. How do I change the fuse.

Part 4 please! This is such a well articulated guide. The world wants part 4! 🙌🏼🙌🏼🙌🏼

@BoatFittings Darn, wish I knew what happened to this guy! It's been a year since his last video. Hope he's okay.

Well done sir

Nice try - but dangerously wrong. Know what you are doing before educating others to create dangerous installations that don't conform to ISO or ABYC standards. The obvious point is having no fuses to protect the cables - this is a huge fire risk. The circuit to the panel should be fused after the battery. For example if one of the spade connectors at the panel comes off and shorts, the cable will take the full load of the battery = fire hazard with cables going through wooden bulkheads. The knock on effect of this is the generated heat will melt the soldered "crimps". All terminals and connections should be mechanically as well as electrically connected. With no fuse this could actually save the day but in the event of a fire those soldered joints failing could cause a dropped wire to short. Or indeed the melted solder dripping could cause a short. Use of a proper crimping tool and high quality crimps eliminates this problem. All of this happening in a workshop is bad, but at sea it is a disaster. There are correct ways of wiring boats for a reason. This not the correct way and is potentially dangerous. You are clearly not a marine electrician and have very little knowledge of how to use these components safely. Watch at least the first 5 minutes of this video to see why the unfused cable in this video is so dangerous at several levels: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-HzfKJwFCPho.html

Should there be a a fuse from the battery to on/off switch?

Thanks!

Hey Richard, I think we lost you there, is everything ok? Hoping so and that your business is doing well and keeping you busy. Looks like you have a pretty good thing going here with the videos w/ over 15k subscribers and over 70k views on this video alone. Looks like several people were really appreciating the unique content. Hope everything is ok and that you find the time to come back to video making soon. I know content production can be extremely time consuming. Thanks for what you have done so far, it's awesome!

Can you zoom in on the connectors ( closeup) ie eg.the pos from switch and pigtail to 3way switch ,hard to see... I had to wire 2 negatives into 1female connector...after the instructiions said" Connect the neg wire from pump to neg terminal on float switch. Now Connect neg terminal of battery to neg terminal of switch... Helpful if more closeup of actual connectors thx great video... And of course instructions are not always diagrammed properly

I think it would have been a good idea to to have mentioned the fuses for each switch and fuse function.

Very useful video as I have to go through the wiring on my boat and had no clue... Thank you

for the auto bilge pump, utilizing the 3way switch for auto/off/manual, is it necessary to utilize the main switch panel as well or could you just bypass and wire the 3-way switch directly to a power and negative terminals...the use of both switches for the one pump seems redundant

In the US they require a breaker or fuse from the battery to the panel. It’s a good idea regardless of where you live. 😊

Why take such a heavy wire to the control panel from the negative busbar? Just for 6 lights?

Thanks so much for this. I have the newer Seaflow switch and the instructions were making my head hurt.

What is the point of running a negative lead from the swich panel to the bus bar and then run the negative lead of the light to the bus bar instead of connecting it to the switch panel?

Really helpful

Dewalt...goodman 👍

Thanks

Good video only thing is you never said what gauge the battery wire is you just said heavy duty? What gauge are you using and also will I use the same gauge if I'm leaking batteries in parallel?

god bless you

Great video. It would be amazing if you could show how to use the multimeter to trouble shoot electrical issues using the model. Thank you again for the amazing video.

Lets think about electronic pumps at a lightning strike. All electronics just died and you have a leak...

Thank you SO much for these videos. Found them extremely straightforward and easy to understand. Much appreciated, Cheers!