Joe Tobiason is a Washington State elopement photographer based in Seattle who specializes in telling your wedding story creatively. He loves using old film cameras, climbing mountains with his clients, and running. Follow along for adventures in a VW van, discussions on the importance of art that tells your story, and probably some long-winded content. Joe believes that everyone is beautiful and has a story worth telling.
I think the filter itself slows down the exposure by 2/3 of a stop. But, I also overexpose mine by about a bit normally as well. So I probably am shooting it somewhere around 1 1/3 - 2 stops over. That said, if you're using a camera who meters through the lens, the internal meter will do it for you (because it's metering through that filter).
Always. I am not kind to my gear. I throw away lens caps whenever I get something new, never turn them off, just toss them into bags and make sure they always come with me because they don't make good photos sitting on a shelf.
I owned a 500C with a chrome C 80mm about 3 decades ago, but at some point I found I wasn't using it, and gave it to my cousin. About a decade later, I got a 2000 FC/M but there was something not right about how it cocks the mirror, and I was never able to find someone to repair it. In spite of all this, the camera had gotten under my skin, and I just kept looking for another one. I finally pulled the trigger and got a 500 C/M, and combined with the viewfinder, 2 backs and lens from the 2000, it is complete. This one I will never sell again. Now I just have to replace the M6 with 50 Summicron I used to own, and miss equally.
Oh man! I'm so gald you have one again. The Hasseys are so special. And I agree about the M6. I am lucky enough to have one of those too and will never sell it.
Thanks for making this. Just the review I needed. Been eyeing with the Mami 6 for a while now. I have one question: my only concern is the retracting mechanism. You seem to use yours a lot, do you experience any issue(s) with that? Does it always lock at infinity?
That's a good question. I've never had an issue with it. It is a moving part which is inherently a question, but I close it after almost every photo and never had a problem.
Lisbon is wonderful. I feel like I end up re-scanning those photos every year just to relive that trip. I probably should go back and make new photos, but this is cheaper. Haha
Thanks for sharing this. I have one too that I did not use much. My lens flared too, though not nearly as bad as yours. I narrowed mine down to early 50s with a Zuiko lens which impressed me at the time because I was an Olympus shooter then. Back then lens coatings were poor and usually only on the front element. So there was a lot of light scatter. Sadly the focus mechanism locked and am debating whether to spend for a repair worth more than the camera.
That's a tough one. Honestly, if I used this camera more, I'd just crack it open and have a go at fixing it myself. Buying a new one would cost less than a repair. So see if you can do it, but then know you have that backup. Good luck!
Yup. Exactly. Just rotate the nob on the top to the desired ISO. That said, I think mine only lets you set it to 100-400 (this is just from memory). So there aren't a ton of options.
It was my first. Moved to Nikon to follow my dad. Went back to my camera. Like my first guitar that I tried to replace my guitar is my guitar. My camera is my camera. And it’s this one
Thanks for the photoshop action! I was wondering, can all the layer adjustments after the auto contrast step be replaced with just the adobe camera raw step at the end?
It is quite ironic how rangefinders really are the most adapted bodies to use these filters yet nobody seems to be manufacturing them for smaller filter ring sizes - I noticed you're using a step-up ring for yours, as well. I've been using the gelatin snap-on filter from Fotoimpex but a drop of water got on it and it seemed to dissolve the orange coating on the gelatine, so I've had a big white hole in the middle of the filter. Had to take it off mid-roll while I was on a trip so all the consequent rolls are unfiltered. I'm hoping it won't be too bad once I get the films back. So my question is, how are you scanning them ? Is there an adjustment you do to manually correct the color balance, or does your software take care of it for you ?
Yea. It definitely is annoying needing the step up, but my two lenses have different filter sizes. So, the step up does let me just have one filter for both. As for editing, I mostly just use auto-white balance in Lightroom before using Negative Lab Pro. It turns out ok. I use 500T a lot in my point and shoot camera, which can't use a filter. I'll be honest and sometimes it's easy to get right and sometimes it's hard to match. Not sure why.
Got one for 25Euro with a Battery Grip and everything seems to be working, Havent had the Chance to shoot it myself yet due to some cleaning I did before and now that I got my 50mm EF 1.8 Lense I can finally do some real testing. It seems to be a very nice and capable Camera in the right hands. Im also very tempted to sell it because I would make a good profit but I think it would be a great way for me to start my Canon Journey. :)
Wait, I'm confused. I thought it was supposed to have that grainy look...like it's trying to have the picture quality of a disposable, but having a "modern" camera body, so that you're not polluting the environment with tons of disposable cameras. Is that not the point? I didn't think many people were buying it to take the pictures and editing them to make them look better, I just thought people were buying them for the nostalgia factor, and simplicity of not having to be distracted by the screen, but without all of the waste of the disposables. Am I missing the point?
You are right, but they don't look like film. And the files aren't as good as film. So, Id argue that they aren't living up to that goal very well. That is just my opinion though.
You can use a Kodak slip on series 6 filter adapter and toss in a yellow filter to up the contrast. It slips on easy (36.5mm size) Patch small holes on your bellows with black Flexseal until you can replace the bellows. My Ilford ISO 125 negatives are sharp and contrasty. Shade your lens with your hat when needed for landscapes.
I'm happy with my Mamiya 6...so happy I bought two more fixer uppers. My lens had scratched coatings and despite cleaning all surfaces it looks a bit hazy too but the negatives are awesome!
Not in camera, but you can add some looks by putting a specific file onto the camera. Those can be downloaded and explained from the CampSnap site. I haven't played around with them myself though.
just picked up one in immaculate condition from a local owner. SRT MC-II which is really cool since it was a sort of limited run of 201s for macys. his father bought it brand new in 77'-78' and ended up preferring other cameras. the son who sold it to me tried using it a bit in college for a class but never did much. it was 90$ so prices are rising it seems (finally, lucky me). Given the series its from as well as museum level condition - like brand new looking - not to mention all the goodies included (a sick md rokkor 45mm , minolta 200 flash , a couple rolls of expired film and an extra telefocal lens) it was worth it. Loved your video ! So excited to add this to the collection w/ my x-700 from my great grandma :) that classic started it all for me (guess i was meant to be a minolta fanboy lol)
HOLY SHIT I have been looking for years I have set up a ton of keyboard layers to make things work better for me I currently use the pallete system by Monogram and love it. but it lacks setting up crop settings as presets and for whatever reason lightroom doesnt let you just make your own preset with just aspect ratio. I've been planning on making a guide on how edit for a long time now. This might be the final piece for me. I'm stoked I came accross this video, because this is what I have been looking at for years. Super bummed it's subscription based for a program like this. I would just like to own it and not have another thing to pay yearly or monthly for. But thank you thank you! keep it up dude
Glad to help! Seriously, this program absolutely rocks. The subscription thing is a bit of a bummer, but in the last 6 months that I've been using it, they've made a few major updates. So it's that sort of ongoing funds that keep it going.
I've never heard of this app, thanks so much for showcasing it! I'm extremely skeptical of edit-for-me AI tools, so I immediately downloaded this. Also looks like it integrates with keyboard maestro as well which I already own!
That's awesome and I didn't know about Maestro. I used to use something similar on PC a decade ago when I did tech support, but this looks awesome. Cheers!
Its just not NLP that piggybacks on LR so requires the user to subscribe, almost all the plugins are like this and a double waste of money, because if you one day decided to stop the subscription or Adobe started to get super greedy again, these plugins are of no use and you loose your money. There is also a problem with standalone software particularly with regards to Apple. Apple Operating Systems have for some time now been upgraded to take advantage of the latest hardware sort of speak and are not backward compatible. The stand alone software has to keep up with the Apple operating systems, so there is a short limit to how long a stand alone software remains usable as the latest operating system may not work on the slightly older hardware. These guys are all connected to each other and cooperate on a research and development level. Obsolescence is built in by all the usual suspects, or a company might find itself shut out of the company of wolves.
Great video. I’m gonna do this in a month or so and was researching it. I live out in Leavenworth and have never done it. Thanks for all the tips and tricks.
It's made by a brand called Casual Industrees. Ive had this for a really long time so i don't know if they make it but they do definitely make other kingdome gear. 👍
Cool review but you can get a flatter output from Filmlab, and it doesn't seem like there was an attempt to match the white balance or saturation in some of those images across programs. In my experience actually NLP is oversaturated by default and does a bunch of stuff automatically (like raw profiles, sharpening etc) and gets blue tones wrong quite often. I find I can get a very flat neutral starting point from FilmLab that is not at all 'vibey' and make further tweaks from there in actual editing software. It's fantastic for those of us who don't want to work in the Adobe ecosystem because you know... adobe sucks.. for like a lot of reasons. And frankly, with Photolab and Capture One available, I don't see why anyone would feel restricted to Adobe's archaic legacy software or horrible UI of modern lightroom (with many of it's features missing from lightroom classic still??). And I don't think any cost comparison is far. Yes FilmLab costs more for a permanent license but that untethers you from the Adobe system meaning you can work with other professional image editors that are just as good as lightroom if not better and get perpetual licenses for them as well. I'm not sure why you even included Darktable given it seems you didn't even attempt to really learn it. I totally get that it's a hassle to learn but negadoctor is maybe the best tool of all of these for accurate film scans and it seems pointless to mention it in your review.
Hey I have this Mju camera too! Or Sarah, my wife does! Check out the new short I just posted where she shows it off, and please ignore the stuff she says about me kidnapping her. I'm definitely not holding her against her will locked in my film cooler. Subbed! As long as you don't report me to the cops. You scratch my back I'll scratch yours!
Great video on this! Thx for sharing! I have a bunch of expired film and just tried using a similar method for loading old film stock into a point and shoot camera that doesn't allow for any iso control. Off to Italy next week with an unused out of the box Espio Mini and very much looking forward to putting this to practice! For those interested, the rule of thumb is to overexpose expired film by 1 stop per 10 years of expiry. So my 20 year old Fuji Superia 400 I changed to iso 100 for example. Look up what's the standard iso setting if your camera doesn't register any DX code. The Espio Mini is 50 iso, which is lower than the typical 100 iso. I scraped the black off with scissors and placed carefully cut out black electrical tape where needed. Fingers crossed 🤞
It's not uncommon for the coating on the Olympus lens to degrade over time, which could very well be the reason for the flare exhibited in your pictures. I have heard from a couple of sources that there are some slip-on U/V filters available that may provide you with a reasonable solution for this issue. If everything else on the camera is sound, a simple solution may help you enjoy this wonderful camera for years to come.
This campsnap is probably the closest I'll ever get to owning a leica. I have subscribed in hopes of living vicariously through you as you shoot your leica because I'll probably never be able to own one. BTW, please don't be upset if you scroll upon my video making fun of leica owners. It was all a joke for internet attention. I don't want to get cancelled by the film community before I get a reel following.
Thanks for watching and enjoy. I have Leicas and also make fun of Leica people. If you make a company into your personality, that's kinda strange. But they're fun cameras to use. Just do you.
I love this video give kids camera to shot film and see them how to see this world I do it this to my Sister's daughter too I give her Konica MS-40 To shot film~
Really glad you made a couple CL videos. I’m just starting photography as a hobby and your videos are helping. I know it’s niche with this camera but I would like to see more.
@@JTobiason I think I just really knew to this so it’s a bit intimidating. Your video about loading the CL had been immensely helpful. Going to look up the manual and read that a bunch of
