This is the official Channel of HHH Cycles Motorcycle repair, restoration and customization Located at: 257 seaboard Ave Venice, Florida 34293 Phone 941-451-4318
Ebay and Amazon -- every now and then a NOS set will show up ... Personally, I had the best luck with Jardines -- and Jardines behind fenton cast iron headers... not stock - but period correct and what most of us actually ran anyway
Bro I love ur description of shit lol but yooo I jus got an absolutely beautiful mint ass condition set of Mach ones for 30$ lol did I do good ? I had no clue they were soooo old lol
I was just going to replace the fuel pump.but when I heard you changed the coils to accell I got excited and decided to do the same thanks.love the way you fucking talk right up my alley.keep up the good work
I can relate. At 50 I found a 22' 1971 cabin trailer sailor abandoned on a property on the Monocacy near Fredrick MD and after a quick re title and about five years of rehabilitation, my brother and I got her back on the Chesapeake Bay again last year to explore the waters where we grew up on a boat much like the ones we had as kids. This year we are sailing the little free boat out of Annapolis over to the Eastern shore for crabbing and fishing.
Yup... For me it's wandering the grassflats with a mask and snorkel looking for seahorses... minus the nickel apiece my grand-dads gave us for them.... and passing the 20 footers with 150's on the back LOL
The frames on 60's and 70's Hondas rarely - in fact very rarely matched the frame numbers past the first week of the production run (honda had a bad one on the line, they'd rip it and pop in another thereby messing up the numbers for the rest of each year) .. Not sure if we left the SL K0 engine in it or put in a leftover Cl engine - That was one of those deals where I was doing one and Dennis went out and found 4 or 5 parts bikes - 3 of which lived LOL - This was the frame I spent awful amounts of time on though... I remember we ended out with a pair of K0 engines, a CL engine and 3 SL K1 engines out of that deal by the time it was all said and done ... Kind of wish I would have kept one of the SL;s but at the same time... I know me... I would have had the thing on the beach a few times (a no no in Venice and Englewood) ...
@@dawino6260 i ment the little Thing Holding the cable in place in the Box before the Clutch, the one you that you Bend Up with the screw Driver. In the end It worked fine with a screw Driver and a Tong and my Bike is driving again. Thx for your Video, was a great Help!
I miss this bike. My bike was in perfect condition. Left it at my dads house in storage for 2 years. Came back and he cut it up and sold the engine for 50 bucks. Thank you for letting me hear it again...
not really -- that generation ... it's either under the seat or the sidecover -- 1 bolt unclip or a rubber strap to unstrap --- remove ground ( - ) FIRST, remove positive SECOND ... when installing attach positive first and ground second - re-clip or strap ... (prevents that wrench making sparks if you goof and hit the frame if you do it in that order)
I've never taped em .. little axle grease to keep em stuck on if they're loose in a finger cutter situation at most ... they mount to pipe (rings) and bolt on (retainer rings) with 2 bolts (generally) crush gaskets you just dig out the old, finger em in with a little grease to keep em in place ... wash down or let the grease burn off when done (grease goes away in the first 5 or 10 miles -- used to test ride em 20 just to not have to deal with that clunky pressure washer I had for a couple decades)
A lot of brainless wonders take em off ... quite a few of them find out anti-freeze on a tire is far slicker than oil... I can't make it much clearer than that .. it is not safe nor sane to run without a catch tank period
the second one out the box that looked like it would fit was the one that fit ... Literally, I just grab em out of the box according to whats in front of me
If you're going to use use indoor consumer grade equipment either outdoors or in "extreme" conditions (high humidity, salt, heat). A little conditioning goes a long ways. Plug in your wires, then WD-40 the rest of the ports. Wd-40 is not conductive, (actually it's a water dispersant). Then even if something the simple as packing tape closes the rest of the open ports. Especially with that line of switches It doesn't "breathe" through those ports.
I have to often put things in in a hurry down there -- they open at 10am and I'm usually lucky to get to a point where I dont have a screen down when they were open -- put in a tp-link temp today -- my final solution is a re-purposed freedom-fi box that's been gutted and filled with a 4 port netgear gigabit switch -- then I gob all the connections with liquid electric tape after I am sure everything is living again ... WD-40 is freat in freshwater outdoors.. Makes for a bigger problem quick in salt air right on the bay like that (2-3 months and the copper goes green)
Shit, buddy I like you. Hell, you talk my lingo fucking bunch of shit. You know the fuck you did the dual between the dual and the singles the single you can get the fuck back home a dual gear stuck on the side of the goddamn road just put your fucking thumb out and everyone looking at you like you’re stupid. I’m just a dumb redneck too, at least I work on my bikes too. What’s the difference? Can you run a single with a damn program to?
My gw1200 limited has sat for about a year. Everything was great then but when i got ready to go for a ride the clutch lever was loose. So i added some bf until it was over it's top. Now it is extremely hard to pull the lever, and i cant get it to release the engine. Whats going on ? Thank you.
You know that little bleeder valve on your slave cylinder...???? OK -- first off you need new lines -- but to buy another year or so and get the crud blocking your return passage out -- Git you a couple of quarts of brake fluid -- put a jug underneath with a hose going in it so you dont get too much air in the system -- pump that part through until the fluid comes out as clean as the new stuff.... cap that puppy at the bottom (slave cylinder - close the bleeder valve) -- take you a 14mm wrench and pull the banjo bolt off the master cylinder -- best to remove the cylinder from the bars if you like your paint -- take you some brake parts cleaner - that little flapper thing inside the master -- you're gonna want it out of your way if you can -- blast the holy hell out of those 2 little passages.. HAVE REBUILD KIT FOR MASTER RIGHT THERE WHEN DOING THIS -- pull the c-clip for the rubber plunger and spring thiggy -- gut that stuff out, hit it with the rebuild kit before you put it back on -- usually it's lines but for me, personally if I'm riding it, I'm rebuilding it while I have it off just in cases its that little rubber drum thing in there that's breaking up and clogging the return (9 times out of 10 its the lines are old - Galfer is your best friend for lines) dont take a chance on it being that plunger replace it while you are cleaning it -- buys you another year or so before your lines break up more and do it again (or start that leaky when you dont want em leaking stuff) ... usually about 20 bucks to rebuild a master -- kits availabe all over - even amazon and ebay ... lines are about 60 bucks... and side note: for safety, if your clutch line is that old - replace your brake lines too - before they start doing it .. probably a good time to flush both your brakes (no need to remove masters if you dont see chunks in what comes out) before some 40 year old fluid reminds you that aint good for lines --- Synthetic you flush your lines every 2 years - regular -- mehhh.. no difference liiterally --- service interval replacement for hydraulic brakes lines on ANY aircraft is 5 years - I apply that rule to motorcycles as well
Legit my dude! My quest that lead me here was wondering about the heater cable and all that. The caddy is WO but thought it odd the keep the cable but had a plug in it. But, then again, mass production is mass production and that's why all Chryslers vehicles from 80's until cab forward era were all wired for the Infinity sound option.
@@tyronenelson9124 isolated in this case ... my parts guy keeps me in pcie risers that self protect (and WONT send power) .. but if you have the old kind and cant keep em isolated .. most of these little monkey boards you put on server power supplies have an inductive sense to turn em on -- use the thing -- it will tie your grounds .. the method of turning on your cards first, then turn on machine .. yahhh that's great for high schoolers (you getting why I only give overviews in the vids) .. but them high schooler tricks .. mehhh if I want to kick on a video wall .. I wanna hit one button .. Plus the guys futzing like that are always messing up --- comes down to a harley mentality - they like working on em LOL ... this was just to show 12 is all you need and give a kid in ohio an answer to an email
Only by proxy -- I worked with all 5 branches but was just a contract employee (sub-contractor via Bosch Aerospace Division in the early days/DOD assigned to DIA at the end) -- Glorified cable dragger/tower monkey who kept his job only because it's hard to find nerds willing to go play in the field and I was too stupid to quit ....
folks don't understand that steel only needs to be heated to the point that it becomes more ductile and will deform. it loses it's ability to stand up to the forces acting upon it and fails
Sure... but ou're gonna need a really big crane and a couple of extra heavy load Semis LOL ( My bread and butter money that paid for all the bikes to begin with, came from years of exposure to DOD types from all branches)
I tried using the screw method on my GS 450 that other people in this thread have suggested, and the screw pulled right out. Nothing for it but to do just like what Da Wino does and perseverate with a screwdriver.
