hello RU-vid world names Adam and im Piscataway Indian from the d.m.v area on this channel you can experience and view many different things about my life from my love of older Mercedes Benz and doing repairs on them. to my native Piscataway heritage events, daily life and many other adventures I go on during this journey of my RU-vid channel growth and expansion!
@@MB-wq9ic very high possibility it is ! But Also check the near by fuse and relay . Those also burn out over time once these two items I replace in this video begin to wear out and fail ..
@@kof20024ever the administrator key means any other key you have that has not already been programmed into the my key system.. so if u only have 1 key and it doesn’t allow you to access the my key menu. A trip to the ford dealership is necessary for them to delete all keys and reset the system.
Yeah u may have roof rails broken or cable could be snapped or bad roof motor .. which requires take the headliner off and do visual inspection of the whole sunroof system to see what’s really going on..
@@piscatawaymechanic I helped it move and then lubricated it and now it works. When my friend had it 1 year ago it only worked upwards but now I only got it to move backwards and forward. After sitting for an hour it moved all ways, weird thing😅
Well. Make sure you ac compressor is coming on and there is r-12 gas inside the system to make cold air, if the fan is coming on as it should there must not be any issue with that. You may need to check the wires from the ac compressor also , then check fuses related to the climate control system.. lastly check for blink fault codes .to see what underline issues are present within ur car..
You need another key that is not already programmed into the my key system . If u have just one key and you can’t access the my key menu in the dash. That key is already programmed and can’t be used to deactivate the my key system. U will need a new key or a trip to the dealership to reprogram the system
I replaced two map sensor including clean throttle Body on my mercedes benz C250 and after one day driving back with same fualt P0106 & P0068 especially no vacuum leaks at all, any recommendations to solve this issue or you think need to drive the car for couple more days and fualt will clear by itself
All I can say is maybe, bad throttle body unit, they are electric and fail quietly, you can check the wires harness for power to the connectors (they fray and crumble short out over the years) , also a bad mass air flow sensor will cause problems that can’t be directly pinpointed by the computer, a lot for part stores sell defective parts so your new map sensor could be bad ( I’ve already had to change the one in this video smh) . And the hoses to things become very hard and ever so slightly cracked and cause problems . So nice soft rubber hoses are essential to the engine operation. Sometimes it can be simple stuff like the air filters need replacing .. hopefully this helps you somewhat
Hi, I have a 2001 s600 today the Esp BAS Came up on screen however the car won't pick up speed I put it in drive but it's not accerlating it goes very very very slow. Do you know if the BAS has anything to do with the car not being able to accelerate?
Well if u haven’t fixed it yet. Get a obd2 coder reader , or stop by AUTOZONE FOR A obd2 scanning . Find out what codes are showing And fix them first . This will most likely lead you to the real issue
We replaced the throttlebody and is in the process of getting a pedal sensor the reader said it needed. Also the reader said the car is misfiring it told us about 6 or 7 cylinders. We replaced the engine coils right and left one was brand new and the other refurbished. Of course it's the brand new one go figure lol. The car has 84, 000 miles I love it but I don't want it to become a money pit..
Long story short the original owner of the car passed away. The car was sitting for about a year his mother was going to junk it she's older and didn't really need it my boyfriend brought it from her including title for about $1,200. Now we had the car towed because it wasn't running my boyfriend said it needed spark plugs we put brand new spark plugs in it still didn't Start. Then he said the engine coils need to be replaced we did that still didn't start then we replaced alternator it finally started. The airbags was fine the car lifted up and was able to drive. That was my concern too the airbags I was afraid it wouldn't lift because it was sitting so long but it did. It drove really good so smooth . When we first got it up and running the BAS assist came on I asked my bf what was it he said its fine then it when away for a while. Last week it popped up again along with the ESP. And it wouldn't accerlate no matter how much you push the accelerator. The mechanic put it on the reader said it was the throttlebody we brought a new one still was doing the same thing not accelerating. Put it back on the reader said it was the throttle pedal sensor circuit A. We are now in the process of buying a sensor. The reader also said it was misfiring on about six to seven cylinders mind you we put new engine coils in it. I just don't know if we should keep fixing it. What you think lol
If it’s not allowing you to access the my key menu . The key you’re using is already programmed into the my key system . So u have to get another key or head over to ur local ford dealer for a computer reset..
Great video.. hey, Mine doesn't blow ANY air at all. No hot. No cold. No defrost or circulation. But when i hit the buttons i can slightly hear the engine idle change with a draw. I FEEL like its the hamster cage/blower motor because of that. ??
Yes you may need to replace both at the same time . They aren’t really super expensive online. And if that doesn’t solve the issue then the next possible problem is ur ignition switch. I have a video of that also. 😀
wow. thanks for the fast reply. i know the blower motor is fairly cheap (rockauto) but a good resistor (not ebay haha) seems pretty pricey. @@piscatawaymechanic appreciate the reply. Subscribed!
I tried the method. However, I counted 5-second holds in positions; forward, backward, downwards, and upwards for 2006 S350. The sunroof reset and closed. Thanks.
Depends on how strong ur clip is to be honest. Mine never made any sounds and is currently seated.. have to be careful with old plastic parts. Sometimes they will randomly snap off pressing on them to hard 😬
You have to purchase another key from the dealership or go to the service department and have them reset the my key program.. unfortunately both options are kinda pricey.
Well. You have to problem solve. Is everything getting power ( battery work ok?) Next check all the fuses ( make sure non or tripped or damaged) if u havd power to the car, next u want to check the blink codes it’s the black box somewhere on the right or left fire wall or near the battery. Check the blink codes which tells u of any issue. Then u may need to test the wires to make sure they are getting power to the starter etc. I’m just trying to offer blind advice but hopefully it gives u some ideas of possible solutions
Thank you man you are awesome i'm very thankful you replied to me the Battery does work and the starter does get power, I will look up what the blink codes are! but the small wire on the solenoid has constant power but it still doesn't push out the starter to turn on the car @@piscatawaymechanic
I made the same stupid mistake by setting this but now that i want to clear it clear my keys doesn't show on settings. I'm using the key i set it up with. What's wrong???
Yeah the administration key is actually just (any other key 🔑 u have for ur car) . That is not currently been programmed into my key system.. if all the keys u have for ur car is somehow programmed into the Mikey system. A trip to the Ford dealership is the next step ..
This is a good video. Today I followed it on my e320 1994. I succeeded, but almost had a big problem. I was working on a warm engine (an hour after being driven) on a fairly warm day. Before removing the regulator, I unscrewed the brass cap and depressed the Shrader valve with a screw driver. I got a hiss and then some gas dribbled out. I let it dribble for about ten records and then replaced the cap. Next I disconnected the rubber hose and pulled out the C-clamp. I wiggled the valve with my left hand. It popped out followed by pressurized burst of gasoline that sprayed my face, jacket, etc. Luckily the glasses protected my eyes. I washed my face and finished the job. Getting the c-clamp seated again took quite a few tries. Question - why was I sprayed with about a pint of gas? I’m assuming that after I closed the Shrader valve, the internal fuel pressure started to climb again because of the warm engine. Is that right? If so, is this avoided by working only on a cold engine ?
Well may not have drained all of it which is hard to do unless u force the fuel line clear of fuel .. if you don’t start the car u won’t activate the fuel pump to build up the pressure again . So the pump will keep the correct pressure for the next starting of the engine. So u kinda have to leak , spill fuel to release it.. only then will there not be anymore pressure built up in the line/ rail . If u get what I’m saying.
Brother! i owe you a six pack of beer for this one 🍺🍺🍺🍺🍺🍺 I have had this rough start issue for months. Mine was weird. It would start great after about 5 hours. Or after a quick run. But if it sat for about 40 minutes to an hour, it would barely start and rough idle. I was about to buy MAF, Fuel Pump, Fuel Filter and just start throwing money at it until i found this. I found that Bosch FPR on RockAuto for $30 and bam! All good. The pliers with the ring was hard for me to get off but aside of that it all went smooth thanks to you. Much appreciated for this video. Saved me a ton of money and headaches
hey, glad my video helped you ... if youre in the USA .. try to read the blink codes thats on the passenger side near the battery (its a small black box) .. I have a video of what each blink code means .. this will help you also find and fix and other hidden issues ..
What part/hose is the one with the blue on it? I replaced the MAP sensor but still getting codes, and not sure the blue hose is connected properly. Very much appreciated.
The black hose with the blue ring is going to the secondary air injection valve change over valve ( it’s apart of the emissions control system) if that hose is broken may need to ask a dealership the part number it’s difficult to find the exact one online sometimes.. if ur obd2 code reading says map sensor go ahead and replace it like I did in this video. It’s also possible that there could be an issue with ur mass air flow sensor.. those will show a generalize code with no exact pinpoint of this issue ( so stupid lol ) but try to fix everything ur obd2 code reader is saying need attention first. Because if will drive u crazy guessing what’s wrong 😵💫.
@@piscatawaymechanic WOW! Great answer. I was having to work on this when my other cars were in the shop. Replaced a MAP sensor but then it started throwing P0171 and P0173 codes. I only noticed this week that the hose didn't seem to be connected back up. You have given me enough to go on and might just need to hook it back up. Thank you! I'll let you know.
My heater fan quit unexpectedly. There was no power to that 30a fuse with the car on. So I ran a 10 gauge wire from the battery to the front side of that 30a fuse under one screw. Got it working quickly!
Well the accessory Drive/ power supply come from the ignition switch, next power for the blower motor comes from a wire harness attached to a heat sink ( I have done a video on this job check it out on my channel).. once that unit fails, burns , gets wet etc, it blows the fuse so u replace it. Because It can case a heat flash and start a fire ! If u bypass it and set up direct link to un regulated voltage!
No I ran a wire to the ignition side of fuse. So power still goes through the 30A fuse to the blower fan. It's working well and the wire doesn't get hot. I probably won't bother changing the ignition switch until some other part of it breaks.
