NOT a steal. Putting it back together, doing the body work and interior plus paint isn't cheap and NOT easy to do. And when u do get it together it's not gonna sell for more than maybe 5k
I think the value would be in working on it as a project, not in potential resale. Most people are underwater on cars they restore, but if you are doing it as a hobby it really doesn't matter.
Yeah, it is pretty sad that they are plastic. I don't know of a metal alternative for the 2V 4.6 V8 unfortunately. If you do, let me know and I will do a video on it.
GREETINGS A Wise man once said this: " Be Careful (WHAT) You Ask for *BECAUSE* YOU May Get it Ten Fold in return or WORSE " NOW the Challenge as stated: DEAL or *No Deal* ??? Arizona, Like Mexico and Others sometimes hold TREASURES while still can be Very Dis-appointing along the way to STARDOM. The LIST of LISTS Dictates *( THIS )* SUBTRACTION Is Lie GRAVITY MEANING ( Down is Up ) and UPSIDE DOWN is where this price ought to be. EXAMPLE: $2,500.oo Minus shipping fees and other extra prices to be paid along the way to say the mid-west a 2000 mile trek. Taking $0.50 per mile as a medium range fee / charge. *( $ 1,000.oo ) Would be the estimated additional cost to reach you , me or any of the others planning on seeing this *(PROJECT)* to a Completion. Stating the obvious here. NO ONE Puts a price on something expecting to get EXACTLY that with some Negotiations being played to a final sale on any given day. The use of words like *F. I. R. M.* Non-Negotiable , Rock Bottom, etc. Are meant to INTICE Probable Lookers into BUYERS literally by choosing to raise the cost first then settle on a Intermediate compromise of CASH in Hands SPEAKS the LOUDEST in PERSON - ALWAYS. So, Simple math. Using $2,500.oo Asking Price. Estimated travel / destination Adjustments * ( $ 1,000.oo ) Equals { $ 3,500.oo } Way to rich for most even to consider. B. U. T. T. as in the *(A-$-$)* of the entire Human Race. Compromise will get each a final prize when done right the first time. $ 1,500.oo In cash. Plus the 1000 to transport makes a 2500 final much more inline for this Fixer upper. They will not give you the GRAND off. NOR should YOU be expected to just SUCK it Up - Buttercup as well. $ 750.oo off means they would be getting what ? $ 1,750.oo and you are paying only the ($ 250.oo ) balance in transportation costs or NOT still !??!!? I have been down this road so will cut to the chase and say this for all to behold. *(IF)* everything was still attached, Complete as far as Original parts and Any After market added in. Batteries, Tires, Windows and Doors. Keys, title, Registration and any other Complete Documentation raise the PROSPECTS versus DELETE the ENTIRE WANT instead of NEED to Keep walking. OFFER $ 1,250.oo with the information of the GRAND in total Estimated Trasport fees YOU then would need to be paying. they counter with $ 2,000.oo FIRM and Not a Penny lower. Make a Compromise and do a Two out of three Takes it al lor winner becomes the loser as in NO SALE today. $ 500.oo off any asking price is only the Knock on the door in person Curtesy approach. $750.oo means Both are being more realistic. At $ 1,000.oo it would at the very least cover MOVING the DAM thing so Each in a Sense in the winner until the next chess move is played. FINAL Offer ( $ 1,250.oo ) Not a penny more. NO RUST ONLY GETS a RIPPED APART (PROJECT ) to the Open Garage spot NOT off the lot still. Weeds , bugs, Missing fasteners, and brackets, important Connecting points, Etc. I was apart of a deal as an outsider where this GUY wanted a Second opinion to see if it was really a steal or scam or just a Junk rolling to the SCRAP YARD EXPLAINED as just ran out of time 30 years before game or worse. SELLERS Like BUYERS want to FEEL that EXCITEMENT of BETTER OFF NOW then You Were five minutes before. (IF) This person truly wants it gone. They overshot the out the door price by close to 35% and yes up to 50% to much in total. RUNNING / DRIVING - FULLY Operating Brakes, registration and Documentation goes a lot farther then its in pieces GOOD luck No One else got it running in multiple decades of trying by this time so way continue to bother ??? To Re-Cap: $ 2,500.oo Minus 500.oo = $ 2,000.oo Then Another 500.oo for NOT being Up and Running Thats $1,500.oo If they say NOT worth there effort give then 5 minutes and explain. CASH in HAND the Clock is ticking. They started HIGH, YOU first removed that fudge factor of HEY what a DEAL I am offering. The Second FIVE Hundred is a BONUS. they Are not getting a dam cent from anyone at this point and YOU are the ONLY FOOL to SHOW up with MONEY to REMOVE this EYE sore of a Charity Case so ) After ten minutes. WALK A WAY... Tell them to contact you in another 24 hours . YOUR Offer will not go up BUTT down another $ 250.oo Bucks for LOSS of INTEREST due to being JERKED around the very first time it was possible. SEE its like this. PRICES are NOT FIRM. They Are HOPES and WISHES... A Penny for each then a buffer to say ( THANK GOODNESS ) At the Very least. Staring out the window each day for the last how many decades ??? GOOD GOD MAN Give me a break already and that will be the final offer $ 1,250.oo Not a Penny More SAY GOOD BYE or will they now be chasing YOU down the DRIVEWAY to SEAL this AWKWARD DEAL as well !?!??!
I am spraying the paint myself. Using Restoration Shop primers and paint from TCP Global. The body filler is just old school Bondo. With the new fenders the car is fairly straight, so not a lot of filling is required
@clunkercompendium9962 Are you using spray guns? Not rattle cans, I assume. I'm asking cause I will be doing my 1970 Roadrunner soon, hopefully. It's not perfect, but I just want it to look a little better. I don't have perfect money. 😆
@@bobbydelamar606 I am using a dedicated automotive sprayer for paint. It's a Wagner Spraytech Complete Car & Truck Paint Sprayer. It was a lot cheaper than going with a big compressor, spray gun. hoses, filter, etc. I'll post a video about it when I spray the primer sealer.
Good idea, I found a headliner for my 94, from a pick your part. LMR, wanted 299, as well as cj pony parts. I got the used one in good condition for 24 dollars. The cowl came out nice.
Just started my restoration project on my 1994 GT. I bought it new in may of 1994. It had 260,000 miles when i parked it 12 years ago. I am ready to refresh it now. Pulled the entire interior out including carpet and the trunk carpet. Just changed the broken odomoter gear which is common on the sn95's. Will have the engine removed and built up would like at least 400 Natually aspirated horsepower. Thanks for your videos.
Me and my freinds just picked up an lx sedan frame today about to drop in a d16y7 we have lying around but it got hit on the driver side headlight pretty hard…. Good luck with the buikd
You're better off wet sanding with 400 then moving to 600 then moving to 800 then 1,000. Then take a can of 2K clear and putting two coats of clear coat over the headlight .. if you do not replace the plastic film that's on there from OEM to protect the plastic all it's going to do is oxidized again and that's what clear coat does... All you're doing is putting a Band-Aid on it for right now
Late Model Restoration and Ebay have them. Just make sure you don't use the Dorman or the one with the short wide intake runners. They KILL the top end. I've changes closer ro 40 Crown Vic, Grand Marquis and the TC.
turn the key to the crank position and when the car turns on keep it there. if you move the key even a little bit and the car turns off then probably the ignition switch. this happened to my civic. when i would keep the key in the crank position the car would stay on but when i would move it back to position 2 it would turn off.
Two ways: 1. The professional method - Get a multimeter and test each position for continuity. If there is variance or a loss of power in any of the positions, the switch is likely bad. 2. The home-brew way - Put the key in the ignition and move it through each position while jiggling it looking for variance. In my case I noticed that if I bumped the key a little, I could get the engine to stall.
Any America cars an trucks looks better than a Honda my name Bill Thompson I own a 1992 Chevy Silverado extended cab pick up truck an a 2010 Chevy Impala I wouldn't trade any them for a Honda at all
