The shielded shackle model would be more suitable for railroad..... portable cordless tools today equate to 1970s stationary industrial machines that you had to take the work to, not the other way around. But it was a HECK OF A lock, if it was fitted with a protective guard.
Lol S&G taking a crack at American at 0:35 and Yale at 0:45. Not sure if they contrasted themselves with the brass-shackled WB locks...I see those often in Utility and electrical boxes, but I suppose no one ever took them seriously for brute force attacks.
@@citylockapolytechnikeyllcc7936Fair point--WB does make some tough locks with 5/16" and 3/8" hard steel shackles, like the 612 and 922 from the 2020 product catalog on their website. Unfortunately, the utility companies for places I've seen tend to use the smallest, weakest padlocks from the "General Service" category, such as the 001 and 061 with 3/16" brass shackles. I don't think those would put up much of a fight to bolt cutters or the double wrench method. Their strong locking pawl springs do make rapping and shimming are very hard, if not impossible.
The "High Security" line of series V, X, and Y with double steel locking balls are definitely a welcome sight for the company's mission of innovation and security.
I guess not many people find this video. Let me tell you I am a believer in sackups. Made in USA and silicon treated they really do work. Make sure you buy the brand. Chinese knock offs are not worth the risk of rust and damage. USA all the way!
4 года назад
Great video, the most thorough on the subject. My key was worn and the wafers would not lie flush so I filed the protruding wafer ends down until they were flush. Now my problem is the cylinder won't go all the way into the housing. It goes to the very last wafer and then stops. I jiggled it to no avail.
The 3 disk version is obviously easily pickable but not the 5 disk version. That is the problem with lock picking know it alls they think of this lock anyone can open it.They aren't properly informing people out there that this 3 disk version is a modified version of the lock and isn't the real version of the lock. This version was requested by the railroads for increased reliability. The 5 disk version is the original real design and can have thousands upon thousands of combinations which is what makes it really secure. This is because of its extra two disks but also the many cuts for each disk. The 3 disk version takes only 3 cuts total which means at most 27 combinations but really at most 17 because you must account for the ones that aren't key retaining. 3 disks 3 cuts = 27 combos - the 10 combos that aren't key retaining = 17 possible combinations. Also the 3 disk version has the key number stamped on the lock which is giving anyone who knows clear easy access. With the 5 disk version it's a hell of a lot more combinations and there isn't the key number on the lock so there is absolutely no way of telling anything about how to pick the lock. Exactly like with every other lock out there you are left in the dark about on how to open it by picking. If you are smart you get the 5 disk version which can take thousands of combinations and there you will have a real good secure lock.
Also if you like this lock they make a smaller version that is even more pick resistant because it comes with 6 disks and also that key way is really small. I've dealt with these locks before and with a flashlight you can barely see all the disks when you are looking down into the keyway. + it's again really small so to get a tool in there for picking is extremely difficult and a pain. Also with this one like the bigger version 5 disk one, there isn't anyway for you to go online and look up the key or anything like that. There ain't no key number stamped on it for you to look up a key to file down. That only works with the modified 3 disk version for the big lock which isn't secure at all. The 5 disk and 6 disk versions are like any other lock out there in terms of not being able to know anything about the key. With that and the strength and reliability of these locks you should have no worries on protecting your stuff. Hope this helped you all out there with questions about these locks.
Yea this is for the original key(s) . The thing about the ford focus is they have a black plastic ring that goes around the ignition tumbler/cylinder that responds to a transponder only in the original keys. When they say key code they mean the tumbler install you need to figure out the size of the little wafers that you put in the ignition.
Agree. Also especially the 3 disc version is quite easy to make a copy of the key. Just look at it and you can probably just remember how cuttings should be if you know the spacing - no need for even a photo(!). What's the point of factory controlled blanks when you can just file a round bar of brass, steel or aluminium to make one? Otherwise a very nice solid lock but a shame the cylinder is so low security. All it would take was to double the number of discs - even if it meant the lock should be a little longer - and it would be much much better. Harder to pick and harder to make a key copy just from memory. Even better yet add a rugged version/copy of the (first) Protec with cuts in two radii - that would probably not mean a lot for picking (just different tool) but it would making homemade key copies much much harder. Just about anyone with just a little sense of fine motor skills, a file and a vice can make a working key in just a few minutes for the Environmental as it is now. Beyond me how railroads can satisfy using such locks (if they're still using them) in these terrorist times. Ex. just do a google image search for "UPRR key" and you'll be able to make one if you know the diameter... Reminds me of Abus. Making mechanically good combination locks for casual- locker- or similar use... Well except for the fact you can stick a strip of paper in beside the dials to recover the combination - very fast! Not only can a fraudulent get in - even do so without leaving traces.
I forgot to put grease on plug and needed to remove it. I did not need to make another key. I used a drinking straw down each side to hold the tumblers in place. The straw will act like a spring to depress the tumblers when the key is removed.
Funny that many of the places in the vid it would be easier to attack the mounting than the lock. Why try to cut the lock with a bolt cutter then the mounting is much thinner and probably made of softer material. Then the key. It looks like it should be a doable task the make a key copy with a round copper or brass bar and some filing. Not exactly a Protec key way.
