I have been watching these for a few days now. I have one of these kits on order. I'll hopefully start this year. Thanks for these how to lessons. You Sir are a God amongst model builders. Thank you. Thank you Oh so very much.
Nice build! I have a few of these on my backlog( 1/48 and 1/72 scales ). It's good to know about how fragile these pieces can be. I was a fan of the original show. I'm currently building the Macross Valkyrie and Gerwalk 1/72 scale models from Hasegawa.
Just a quick thought! I saw in some other video that the builder filled the tyre with som foam to keep from becoming flat. Maybe this could be something to consider? M
I don’t see any different markings on the Deagostini tires, but one is slightly wider than the other. But the bead area seems the same, so my wheels should be ok. But I’m assuming the wider wheels are rear? Thanks again!
@@customfabrications it may be obviated by your “build it all” approach, but the front kit wheels have a longer and beefier hub that the “axle” goes through.
I’m still not exactly sure how the numbering system works. I think it’s one of those things where I’d have to have both in front of me to physically look at.
I realize this is a few years old but I was wondering what the model of that cheap RC servo was? I’m doing the same thing for a steering setup and I can’t quite figure out what angle of servo to buy. Your end result is exactly the distance I need my wiper motor to travel.
Nice! I know your video has been out for awhile but I just stumbled across it and I'm always looking for ideas and tips. I made my first servo from a wiper motor back in 2016 to be used as a steering wheel control on a full size car for staging a crash. The H-bridge amp I used to drive the motor was something I cobbled together but seemed to work. I cheated and used the original servo with the motor removed mounted on the same plate as the wiper motor with linkage back to it for the potentiometer position. I didn't take a lot to time for details because I thought it was going to be a one time use device and be destroyed in the crash. Well, 8 years and over 30 crashes later it's still going strong. I did updated the H-bridge amp to a commercially available board..
@@customfabrications Haha! not hardly.. I'm retired but I volunteer out at the local public safety training center to help stage their own crashes to gather information and data for their accident reconstruction classes. They get good data with all crashes and I have a ball! A little of the mayhem and madness we have done can be seen in this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Td7kBKz7JLM.html
@@customfabrications Ha! No stunt man here. Since I retired I've done some volunteer work out at the local public safety training center rigging up cars to stage crashes for data to use in their accident reconstruction classes. Some of the past madness and mayhem we've done can be seen in this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Td7kBKz7JLM.html
I split each hood section (front to back) into about 3 pieces and held each end into the correct position while bonding the seams back together. Then fill and sand the gaps. I had to do this a few times to get it correct, but that’s mainly because the filler I used would shrink, and warp the hood again. So once I figured out what was happening, I used bondo as the main filler. I show all of this in a few earlier videos if you need more detail info. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Hallo there Dear friend, Nice to see a new project on the table. Wish You the best building it. I just hope that because of the scale it won’t be difficult to video the build. ( I mean for us to see). Anyway see you soon and take care. All the best from Sweden.
I have three DeAgostini Jags and am building a couple of the Monogram/Revell kits as customs as well- using DeAgostini engine in one of them. Be aware that the first tire you get from the subscription Jag is the spare- and it's different from the other four- the tread pattern is different. I'll be using a set of DeAg wheels on a roadster conversion on the Revell reissue kit I just got from Germany, but one of my kitbashes will be using aluminum "modern" racing wheels sourced from an RC car- as well as a set of brake disks and calipers from an RC car as well. I have a LOT of spares from abandoned DeAgostini Jags that I've purchased online, as well as three or four of the plastic kits- if you need any info on parts, let me know. Also have a real E-Type in the garage, although it's a Series II, if you need reference material. The decal kits online to detail these cars are all pixelated garbage and I'm starting to make photorealistic versions on a high end printer- I can send you some once I get them up and going. I'm using photos of actual decals and plates on the car. The ones online are truly disappointing.
Thanks for the info! I had no idea about the spare. I just looked at the other three I got. And yea, I need another tire. Not only is the tread different, but they are actually a tighter fit to the wheels I’m making. They’ll still work though, thankfully. Let me know if you have a tire you can sell me. If not I’ll go back to eBay. Thanks again!
@@customfabrications I will take a look at what I've got. I think I could swap you a regular tire for the spare that you have. I might have three spares here that I could make a set with if I had yours. I'll dig around and see what I can come up with. I didn't realize the spare was so different until I installed it on the model and something just didn't look right.
Hello sir! I have been watching your channel for a long time and I have built some of these little models, I just wanted to say that I love the hands on your doing here with the instructions iinstruction sheet in view and real time assembly! Thank you.
Hi, i have a similar design, but it doesn't go to exact center after left or right when i release the stick. Right and left have their different home position, do you know why would it be? There is no mechanical backlash.
@customfabrications I have tried different pots. And I checked if the resistance changes, it does. It's like that small servo controller has some huge error margin for middle. @21:57 of your video, that one little spot is a big spot for me case. 😂
I honestly don’t know the technically correct answer. I think it depends on where you start. I typically start on the left side, so moving right would be positive. But I really don’t know if it matters as long as you don’t lose track of where you are.
Hi everybody, Another very nice morning here in Stockholm, Sweden. Starting early with a nutritious breakfast and a new video from my favorite RU-vid channel. Really really impressive. What a start on this beautiful summers day. Thank You my friend. Have a nice day, see you soon. All the best. M
love the thought process... the problem solving and the way you explain it. Furthermore, I enjoy the fact that after you've explained it, you have it already done which to my mind makes watching your video even more enjoyable... I don't have to wait. Excellent work brother.
You could machine the tires out of some wood and make yourself a mold and make all the 1/8 scale tires that your heart desires. Wait.... I did hear you say that you have a CNC machine (or something like a CNC machine), right? Or even better...... 3D print the molds. If you have a 3D printer that is. Man.... Your attention to detail and skills at modeling are something I envy. Are you an old school member of any of the modeling forums??? Your work style seems real familiar.
Thanks! I did think about molding the tires. The problem with my CNC router is that I’m not that good at it yet. I’m struggling to learn CAM. I do have a 3D printer, but getting the fine tread details to show sharply and removing the layer lines could be an issue. I actually did think about molding the new tire and casting copies of that, but with the cost of the molding and casting matériels, and the time to do that, just buying the other 3 was a no brainer. And the monogram tires aren’t in a good condition to mold. So basically, I could spend just over $100 on tires and be done, or just under $100 on mold making and casting materials and spent countless hours casting them (and they probably wouldn’t be perfect). But yea, I honestly did think about it. If Diagostini tires weren’t available, I would have tried casting them. I am on a forum, but haven’t looked at it in years. I also have pics on model motor cars web site. Sorry for the long reply. But thanks for watching and commenting! I really do appreciate it.
@@customfabrications I used to spend too many daily hours on quite a few different forums back in the day, but I spent about 95% of that time on Traditional Rods and Kustoms. I don't know that I've ever been on Model Motor Cars though. But yeah..... The CAM software is a steep learning curve that I haven't even begun, but one day hope to do so. I know that there are many many different types of CAM softwares out there and some that are very very easy to use. Then it comes down to will your machine work with that without having to gut all the hardware and replace it? 3D printing has gotten much better last few years. And there are all kinds of ways to do away with the layer lines (none of them are easy and can be very time consuming), but you're right...... Do you just flat out pay for what you know looks good and is what you want? Or do you invest in a bunch of tools and materials that carry a hefty upfront cost plus all the hours it could take learning how to get the most out of something like a 3D printer? I'd go with just buying the tires as well, but with the level of detail that you put into your builds you may not like having your custom parts manufactured by some machine. You may do all of this because it's YOUR hands doing the work. Anyhow.... I am absolutely loving the detail of your work. You are a true artist, my friend. Keep the videos coming. Makes me wanna start modeling again. It's been awhile since I melted any styrene or huffed the Plastruct plastic weld. Lol!!!
Thanks! Yea sometimes it’s a tough decision between buying and making. I just look at cost and time and make the best choice I can. Like I could have bought all the deagostini parts for the wheels, but that would have been around $200 or more. If mine work out, I’ll have spent less than $70. But way more time. Thanks again for watching and commenting! I appreciate it! Regards,@@BIGWIGGLE223
@@customfabrications For making molds, resin printers change the game... no more trying to sand the layers off a 3D print without losing the details. The prices are down significantly now. I have one, but can't use it in the house because they stink! My parrots are very sensitive to fumes, so until I get the real Jag in the garage finished I don't have space for modeling in the garage. Resin printers are game changers, and there's a lot of stuff already posted on various sources online to just find the part you want and bang it out. Just found a Daytona style fuel filler for my SVRA Jag model build.
Thanks! This was a while ago, I don’t really have a link. I think I got it from eBay. Just go on eBay and search IBT-4. Sometimes they are called stepper motor drivers, but they’re not.
And you should be very, very Proud!!!! Those of us who build these classic Pochers definitely relate to the for mentioned hood issues!! you did a AWSOME job my friend!!!!!!!!
Отличное видео. К сожалению мне английский язык не родной, трудности перевода для меня. Но все показано наглядно, все понятно. Спасибо вам за ваш труд!!!
These engines will run if made exactly as per the instructions. Do not expect that it will run on propane alone, the propane is there to assist the engine to reach self sustain when switching over to Kerosene. I have seen a video of Kurt's engine being started by blowing on the compressor with a straw by mouth! However, best using compressed air or better a air pump from an airbed. I have seen a couple of them in model aircraft flying but that is the exception. Most are purely run on the bench. Mine ran fine but did tend to get hot and was not adequate for model aircraft. The Kamps design with a car turbo compressor or better still the KJ66 design produces a much more reliable engine that starts to get closer to a manufactured product. John
Thanks for the comment. I actually bought the stainless tubing to make the actual fuel coil back when I started this project, but just never made that for some reason. My point of making this was to see if I could. I guess once I realized it could work, I got it out of my system and just never properly finished it. I keep saying ‘one of these days, I’ll finish it’, but who knows when that’ll be.
What a nice morning here in Stockholm, Sweden. Woke up at 06:30 blue sky and the warm sun. Breakfast, Porridge with Raspberry and Raisins a boiled egg and a Grapefruit and my favorite show in the Tube. Thank you so much. It all looks very nice. All the best from me to you. M
I do watch him, and have seen his jaguar build. Just my opinion, but I think there are parts to that model that are very nicely detailed, but other parts I really dislike. It looks nice overall, but getting just a few parts a month in no logical order would drive me nuts. Plus,I’m too cheap to justify the cost of those models. Thanks again for watching and commenting!
