I have never used these anchors before. I was wondering what the thread spec is when I buy the bolt. Also, I would like to know because I want to buy a threaded nylon plug to prevent dirt and other contaminates from going into the female end.
This is the most polite way of telling your impatient consumers the answer to "Why am I blowing holes in my wall with your product?" I'm just here for the early Brian Urlacher cameo.
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It's surprising that in tightening the bolts for the 5/16" size anchor that maximum 7 ft-pounds is allowed. It really hold that tight with so little force in tightening the bolt?
What is the holding strength for the 5/16" variety and is there a maximum foot-pound in tightening? And also being these are not single-acting, what are the edge and spacing distances? Present us with a chart, please.
This product works about half the time; the other half of the time, the screw breaks into two pieces and YOU are screwed. Even perfectly cleaning out the bored hole perfectly, and applying a slow steady torque, the screw would rather break off than seat. It appears to me that the screw is imported and made of very soft steel.
You, sir, are master of the obvious! You failed to mention or specify how length of bolts will change the depth required. You failed to mention whether or not this needs to be tightened with a hand tool, or if an impact drill can be used. You also commented to install the dropping anchor, as deep as it needs to go, 🙃 I’m not sure about you friend, but as a contractor I’ve installed thousands of these and I’ve never saw any instructions on any box on how deep to go with this option. If you’re going to spend the time to make a video perhaps spend a little bit of time, considering the fact that your video should actually be useful.
Do these work on hollow bricks where you would drill all the way through and hit the hollow space? I see in this video you drilled next to the motor joint, went through and vacuumed it out but then when you put in the anchor you were in the middle of the motor joint. (Different hole). Maybe you could show video on a single brick to show how they work? Thanks
I will be anchoring pressure treated 2"x4" onto concrete in order to frame a non-load bearing exterior wall (closing in a garage). I live in SW Florida (not sure of the codes in Lee County). If using a 1/2" wedge anchor bolt with minimum embedment of 2 1/4", and adding an 1 1/2" inch for the thickness of the 2x4, and another inch for the bolt, nut and bearish plate, all that comes to 4.75", then would you recommend I purchase 5 to 5 1/2" anchor bolts?
The 3/16 drill bit to be used on Tapcon screws is worthless… 3 new bits and never got a hole in the brick. Used a 20v Dewalt hammer drill. Had to quit and find a masonry bit to drill the hole.
The problem I have is when tying to use the concrete drill bit to make the pilot hole, I use a rotary hammer drill but the drill bits all get damaged and I can't drill the pilot hole. The concrete is Quickcrete. I have dulled 6 drill bits so far! What gives?!?!??? The drill bits all say it's for hollow tile blocks, brick and concrete!
very lame video....."one or two turns should suffice".....clearly this guy or his products haven't been checked out by a third-party to really test their products. ....nothing about using a torque wrench or how tight specifically ....nothing about weight or stress that it can support in brick, mortar, block, concrete, psi, etc Very disappointing content in this video.
Check the mfg link listed just below the video to answer you criticisms. Impractical for the video to verbally list the different data for each of many sizes! i.e. torque, strength etc.
A vacuum is not a good way to evacuate a small, tubular hole because there is no air flow motion generated inside the hole. Prove this to yourself by first using this vacuum method followed by using compressed air “Duster” to blow out the hole. Lots more debris comes out when the Duster is sprayed into the hole.
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Wouldn't you get more strength if you used plastic inserts with these types of screws? Wouldn't that hold the screw in a lot tighter? Or is this for applications where strength isn't so important? It just seems so easy to use an insert and that insert would conceivably fill in any dead air space. The screw is hard and concrete is hard. That can't be a good combination surely. (I am very inexperienced in construction obviously.)
