I understand it doesn't improve the r value but I am absolutely going to use the ceramic additives on the inside and outside of the one wall that gets sun all day.
No doubt it insulates not as well as a mirror finish. So reflects some radiant heat and has no actual R value for conducted heat. So it's white paint. Bob being a salesman who displays no practical engineering knowledge loves it.
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Notice the white (more reflective) color of the new coating vs. gray(!?!) of the old coating. That'll drop your roof temperature. Choosing a low-emissivity coating (paint is a coating) should help. This stuff may be low-emissivity.
First: it takes time for heat to travel (conduct) in metal. You can do the exact same demonstration with any piece of metal, as long as you don't hold onto it for too long. Ever stick a metal spoon into a pot of boiling water? Takes a while for the handle to heat up. Second, there are three forms of heat transfer here: radiative (e.g. sunlight, or hold your hand near the side of a hot kettle), convection (circulating air or fluid, e.g. put your hand over a hot kettle) and conduction (DON'T put your hand on a hot kettle). My guess is that this bead coating could help with radiative, not so much with the other forms. So a thin coat could reduce solar input and radiative output by being reflective and low emissivity (a poor radiative emitter), but not help much with conduction or convection with hot or cold outside air. I'd want to see side-by-side tests and specifics on what situations these are good for, also coating lifetime.
Holy smokes this is a terrible misleading video.. At least you use the same color paint yet by adding in a bunch of extraneous data and unreadable graphs... you are simply baffling us with bulls__t. You never once state a temperature difference yet use double negatives and imply its really great stuff.. In the real world, every time I have tried ceramic paints or additives... it simply does not work. Not in Utah, not in Oregon, not in Baja. Not on a mobile home, a travel trailer or a shed. Just apply a glossy white high quality paint instead. You can see a 20-30 degree drop if all the conditions are just right. Kept your hand on your Waller and run the other way from all the insulating paint claims.
G Henrickson I've read your comments. Can you do a video on this or do you have one up ? Reason asking so more of up are aware and won't be misled by these companies thanks.
I made a video in a colored jar boiling water cools faster than bare. In Russia too a lot of quacks who propose to use such dyes as thermal insulation ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-uculrpQnlNI.html
Ceramic additives do not work in the real world. Maybe the $200 per gallon thick stuff does but a simple 2 or 3 layer paint job within the same color as non-additive paint does nothing. Using a high quality glossy white paint seems to make the most difference. I know of no one who has used a ceramic additive in their paint that is happy in regards to cooling the infernal never-ending suns warming effect on the outside of their home.
Down in Baja, simple glossy white glossy paint makes all the difference with the suns rays...20 or more degree surface temperature drop yet... when I tried this additive, it made no difference at all. None whatsoever. It did about double the cost of each gallon I applied. What a real world waste of my money.
I wonder if this is an infomercial. You also have to take take into account that any white paint will reflect heat thus reducing temperature. is the heat reduction due to the paint being white or because it is ceramic?
Visit professional roofing forums and do thy homework before applying any external coating. Those guys (and gals) deal with every coating option and aren't swayed by RU-vid commercials as they make their living by being skilled at their trade. That way, as with much technology, you completely bypass adverts and sales agendas.
To dongwookkho, sorry I was unaware you had posted a question. The dark tray portion of the pipe is the bare uncoated part of the pipe which is heated by the tiger torch to 450 C. The Hot Pipe Coating is an excellent choice because it is highly effective in actually blocking heat transfer. You cannot do this with other insulations at such a thin application. Contact me in Canada through email at. DavidLawson(at)EagleCoatings(dot)net
Look at the amount he has on the test piece he has. Do you see how much of the supertherm is on that? That is not how it looks after one or two coats. This is not an accurate test. A better test would be to do that same test with the recommended number of coats for a container house to get a proper R value.
The pros and cons of preventing heat buildup... Someone should make a paint with nano-solar cells, that polymerize and orient themselves into circuits upon drying. This attracting of energy could power many devices. If the total surface area of deserts, and exposed rocky mountains, etc. was calculated, how would it compare to total surface area of dwelling roofs? White is good for non-rotting materials. Black is good to attract heat and dry wood or corroding structural materials. No winners.
What about extreme cold environments? Would it be sprayed on the inside? The guy suggests he's going to paint it on the inside, then they paint the outside.
The ceramic coating (HPC) controls heat transfer by effectively blocking heat from transfering through the ceramic coatings as opposed to conventional insulations which absorb heat. HPC will also prevent corrosion under insulation (CUI).
That is our video at Eagle Specialized Coatings of a test done at Vancouver Shipyards. A tiger torch was inserted at one end of the pipe to heat it up to about 450 C. One objective was to demonstrate how HOT PIPE COATING can be applied to a live system avoiding costly shutdowns. Also to show how effective the HPC is at holding the heat in the pipe. The application thickness in this video was only about 100 mils thickness reducing the temperature from about 450 C to roughly 90 C.
