could you also test the balancing capabilities too? will they be balanced if each battery was at a significantly different voltage?

what do you think about a ptc to limit current on these 18650s or any polymer battery, is it a good idea?

been really looking for such an educational video for this bms, lack of which disappointed me, happy to find your video, awesome!

I can't tell a man with that much equipment he's wrong, but there's three batteries in series and it's given 12 full volts, so isn't that 1A going to each cell, and no split (0.3 amps each)? just asking

Hi Michaels and good evening everyone, I have a working Commodore 1901. The only problem is the very low brightness. What could it depend on? Thank you

The last one worked very well on my pi 3. thx a lot!

I don’t have that type of port I have the circular one

To think I have been using RPi as daily drive since before the RPi2 came out, and the shear lack of projects like this since the RPi4 came out, makes me laugh at _complaints_ about "using RPi 5 as a daily driver", and causes no end of consternation that my then Jessie powered RPi 2B+ was more than capable as a _daily driver_ for more than 7 years.

I'm not clear from the outset whether 3x cells are series or parallel (I reckon parallel) I was looking for info / guidance on how to charge 3x in series - at 12V supply

Your analysis is INCORRECT!! If you are pushing 1 amp through the 3 cell battery pack it is NOT divided among the 3 cells!!! Since the cells are in series they are ALL seeing the same 1 amp.

i know this is old, but when your charging in series, a 1a load is 1a per cell, if you were charging in parellel then yes yeah bank of series would be getting 0.33a per cell, but because your charging in series at the total pack voltage, 12v to make it easy, at 1a your charging at 12w, if you were to charge a single cell 4v at 1 amp thats 4w, 4w x 3 cells is 12w, so they are each seeing 1 amp my dude

ultrabook rams cant be upgraded. noted man, ive searched the internet for so long for this one bit finally i can rest easy knowing theres nothing i can do

i would wish to see you elaborate on how to use the 3s 18650 battery pack with a solar set up.

all I want is a bms that will let me charge two 18650 as a 6v battery, I want to put in 2 18650 batteries into my lantern battery thats now flat and be able to recharge it whenever I need too

Hi, I've been using this charger for a year or two, but now I need a 5S, and I was wondering if you recommend a 5S charger?

The one under the heatsink is the cpu the other one no heatsink is the GPU

As u have made it of 12v but if we want to make it of 7.4v and connect it to a solar 3W 8.97v 3a

Want to make a 7.4v

I made a circuit, with (3 Batteries + 10A BMS & XL6009) - working fine. Buit, the battery voltage is dropping automatically even if the input voltage is ON and is 12V. Why the battery voltage should drop ?? Where could be the problem ??

I made a circuit, with (3 Batteries + 10A BMS & XL6009) - working fine. Buit, the battery voltage is dropping automatically even if the input voltage is ON and is 12V. Why the battery voltage should drop ?? Where could be the problem ??

Do you know if I were to build up multiple 3s battery packs using the BMS you are reviewing 2:31 mark could I wire them in parallel to my load to get a longer battery life?

Do you know if I were to build up multiple BMS like you did at the 0:15 mark could I wire them in parallel to my load to get a longer battery life?

I'm not sure this is correct. Certainly your brick be it 5 or 50 Amps is only going to deliver the amount of current the BMS draws. As to voltage no charger external or using the BMS is going to take a dead battery at 3.2 volts and instantly have it raise up to 4.2v correct me if I'm wrong? As to the maximum charge per cell versus what your seeing (Lower but still ramping current down as the voltage is kept the same) I think instead of concerns of fire you really only have to consider the time to charge. If I use your BMS to charge with a Lab Supply on a 3S battery I see it taking 2.x amps for the strong part of the charge curve (Where you have charged up the battery to 80 something percent then the charge drawn from the supply goes down just as it should until the battery is topped off and then charge current is as near zero as I can measure. What do you normally do to charge? Are you using an external charger like a Wissblue LCD-4? Note that on this charger you may select 0.5, 1 or 2 Amps of charge current so I'm pretty sure it not only safe but probably extends the battery life. If your removing the individual cells to put them into a commercial charger whats to be done with people spot welding say a 4 S(eries) pack to the BMS which I think is the norm.

Thanks for the information. @4:36 Why are you dividing the current in three? I understand energy should be conserved, not amperes. If you supply 12V 1A (12W) then each 4V cell would get 4V 1A (4Wx3) at 100% efficiency and equal charging. I generally agree with what you did, but I think to be accurate you would need to monitor each cell. If 5A was actually supplied, your cells would likely get very hot! Depending on the cell size, it might be necessary to control the input current.

Thank you so much for this. My S7 finally died in 2023 so I wanted to destroy the hard drive. Amazing seeing inside it

@4:26 - I think you made a mistake: it is NOT shared current as all batteries are in series so current is equal for all of them - unless, BMS really splits and maintains INDIVIDUAL current for each of the cells - in that case mea culpa ;-) We don't see the Power Supply voltage but considering it is constant 12.5V with 1A it will be 12.5W consumption (and dropping with the time). So it cannot be 300mA per battery, why? Battery has 4V now, with current 0.3A it is 1.2W consumption per battery, times 3 = 3.6W for all 3 of them. So how is 12.5W consumed by the entire system (12.5V + 1A) versus 3.6W (as you said: each battery is third of this 1A)? I bet you made a mistake but I am wondering ;-)

What battery are you using?

Brother I was facing a problem I have a raspberry pi 3 b The raspberry pi is giving a low power sign on top right corner of the screen I tried many mobile chargers 5v 3.1a but still having that low power sign can you help me with that?

I got a question can you power atx with battery with two systems with plug socket and without but able to charge a phone. I was closer but I got H bridge working and L.E.D light working and fan in the out put wires. But to work on input wire need help

So, the issue that I have with using power supplies isn't so much the voltage but the amps. I can find a psu that gives the 3v, 5v and 12v is needed, but the amps are a mystery. How do I ensure that I get the 3A needed out of the psu?

You trickle charged your batteries more than they needed to through benchmark power supply.if you had cut the charge at the 0.3 amps,your results would have been the same.Nice effort

Bms have auto off when its fullycharge sir???

What i surmised from this is that small BMS boards can't be trusted and i need to build a battery cover on my device and put the 18650 cells in holders so i can take them out and put them in a proper charger 😞

You should also explain about protecting power inputs when connecting directly on GPIO, since in RPi3B+ for example you're skipping the resettable fuse which is present on microUSB port.

Have you come across anything similar for more than 4 cells since then? Such as for a 6S?

how do i know if a relais is necessary? So if my project draws little current a "pass through" functionality is given with my bms alone? But how do I know if its not enough? --> Just see if my project works and see if the batteries are actually charging up voltage? One can also always disconnect the project with a switch while charging up the batteries and only continue using the project once the batteries are charged and the charger is disconnected.... right? A lot of questions from me ik :D You answered quite a few here, but i am still left with these though ;D

Amazing how you figured it all out, not just one time. I'm going through all sorts of designs and older videos just to get a box and a power/battery solution to my liking. The displays (5" and 3.5") are working great for me, however, too much cube form and such. I also want a Pico later on for a clock project. My "break-through" was power delivery within the last few days.

I have had a similar problem and solved it as follows: I used two 18650 cells in parallel with a buck converter to deliver the 12 volts, I connected the charger directly to the cells to charge a 3.7v. This system was used to replace the battery pack in a surveyors total station and so has worked very well. I used the 3 cell and 3s circuit as you used by after charging I connected to 12 volt light for capacity test and destroyed the cells (zero volts and apparently internal short circuit - did it twice before adopting the solution above. Would appreciate your comment. Regards Robert W

this is not serial connection of few bms

Cool video man!

Hi! In my TP02 transistor is really burned around. Do you know the part number? I can't seem to find it in service manual.

One of the best looking monitors in retro world.

I did set everything like urs but when I press on the light it blinks and goes off😢😢

So does this means I need to use a charging module along with the bms?

Too bad this testing is done with "Ultrafire" brand cells. Who knows what's really inside them.

Finally a video with the answers that I was looking.

Can i get the motherboard and keyboard

I use think multiple battery Bms didn't make sense

so wheres the constant voltage part with 150ma?? big waste of my time here

Would adding a bms help the batteries last longer?