When making measurements to set delays between the speaker and the listening point, should the measurements be taken from the grille to the listening point? or would it be more correct to remove the grilles and take measurements from the listening point to the base of the speaker cone without the grille?
Do you know if the DX has this problem with the door jamb being blocked by a plug? The absolute only electronics in my driver and passenger side door at all is the factory speaker wire. I don't have power locks, windows, or mirrors
I was thinking of adding a little d4s lithium as my 2nd battery would I need to put a isolator inline since my front battery is agm? Seen people use them and some say they didn't need it. Thanks
Nice amp, but the Deaf Bonce 15" I have us just eating every bit of power from it. 2,000 rms, 4,000 max. Might eat it and buy a 5 or an 8 k. Gain is already 3/4 up on it, and I have a second battery. I guess I won't know if I need a slightly bigger amp yet until I get my voltmeter hooked up.
Nice video, my man! One thing that I found out (and you may already know) is that you can use the SPL meter in REW to match channel levels in real time. It was a time saver for me when I last tuned a system. Thanks for the great content!
take the specs in the sheet and consider them. Take a ruler and measure the sub rim from the backside. It likely will never be perfect, once the hole is cut wrong to begin with.
