At ECU Testing we want to challenge the status quo, when it comes to expensive car parts we believe in thinking differently… We believe that a failed electronic control unit (ECU) should not have to cost a fortune. We think it is reasonable that you should not have to buy a new unit from the manufacturer. Just because they say you should.
We believe you should have the choice to have your existing control unit rebuilt, a choice that saves money, time, energy and natural resources. We also believe you should expect a rebuilt unit to perform exactly the same, if not better, than buying a brand new unit from the manufacturer. We believe you should be aware of what is happening at every step of the rebuild process so you can effectively plan your transport while your car is off the road.
Tim, at 6:53 into the video, the green sensor wire is unhooked. There is a green component depicted at the front of the ECU. Is the the resistor and the point inside the ECU module that senses the sensor return voltage? If not, what is it?
It's a useful guide but if you're doing this yourself the plastic 'bracket' shown at 3:50 cannot be removed. It is an integral part of the full dashboard assembly. It can be carefully cut to allow the column to be pulled out but MUST be joined back together to allow the knee airbag module to clip back into position. I used a thick plastic strip and plastic rivets. I've not known a replacement column to need coding either. I just recalibrate the angle and torque sensor.
had an issue of throttle body signal dash light, service cleaned it, (says not to) but worked for about a month, bought a new one and cleared light, so far no issues, but vehicle sat for about two weeks. started fine ran to store, came back to park it and truck wanted to accelerate, pushed brake pedal but could feel it wanted to move, engine started to rev up put it in park, and rpm's went to 4000 then came down, restarted many times and ran around about one mile and issue did not re-a cur. 2004 dodge Durango 5.7 ltr 4wheel limited. will a code be stored? and what might issue be? first time this has ever happened. thanks
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my ford focus 2010 model shows engine malfunction sign some time when i turn the engine on , red light stay on but after few minutes disappeared . I send my car to Halfords diagnose centre and they said they didnt find any problem then Mr clutch diagnoses as well and they said the same so any one knows what is the real problem ? or is there any danger fault can appear during driving? TIA
Thanks, your video is inspiring to learn more and more, for me as a Renault owner specially, nobody wants to put hands on the job, and some self called technicians want to replace all the motor, one piece at a time to solve the issues. One question, what if the resistance between high and low speed can becomes crazy moving up to 500 ohms and decending to 50 ohms?
Hi,I am Ali from Egypt ,I have car Renault Clio sedan model 2008 1.4 CC 8V ,I have many problem with it and many electric technical in Egypt did not where the problem and when put it on the OBD2scaner it say it no problem in car ?! So please can you help me the problem is in the ideal speed and car stop the car engine sound up and Down and motion too and the RPM to it move up and down but between speed 750 as up and 500 as down and I have another problem in the morning when I start the engine it start quickly without problem when I go to work and in the end of the work day I leave my car under sun in the park when ride it and start the engine the engine lake and did not start immediately it take one 30 second to start up and another problem with windows glass when I up the widows and the windows is closed and if I did not left the glass button the heat indicate is up as the car was very heat I don’t know what the reaction between the widows button and the heat indicator can you help me please
Maybe im jot followong entirely... but I get a 60 ohm reading at the DLC, but when testing can c pins at the TCM and gear shift module i read areound 120 ohms... does this mean there is a break in wiring on can bus?
Ive had 2012 prius codes U0073, U0123, U0124, U0126, and U0293 and have been researching for hours how to check the wiring (I have already checked the fuses and will be double checking the battery). There is no good information out there explaining everything like this video. Everything makes so much sense and now I'm less scared to tackle this. I don't trust mechanics so I want to learn how to solve my own issues.
Hi. I have a 1998, 175,000 miles, 3.3L. All stock. Driven like an old lady would drive it. Has thrown the EGR solenoid code since I've had it, the last 10,000 miles. I don't have emissions and don't perceive any driving or fuel economy issues so I've left it be. Mine has never died or not started. It is having intermittent random misfires though (P0300). Pretty rough at times, but only when it's not idling and being driven above 1,600ish RPMs. Gets worse as more load and RPMs is needed. Doesn't appear to be anything in distributor, plugs, or wires (all newish and coil pack checks good). It is worse sometimes than others, and present cold or hot. It seems to get worse after fuel is added too, but then settles down some after 20 or so miles. Coil checked good with 0.6 ohms primary winding, and 11,780 ohms secondary winding. Cap and rotor are good and only 10,000 miles used. So are plugs and wires. PCV valve good. No loss of any oil or coolant. Air intake filter new. Sound familiar to anyone? What fixed your constant random misfires? It does not misfire at idle RPMs, or while coasting down roadway either at any speed. Thanks!
I have a 2001 ford focus. After renewing the entire brake system, the brakes started to fail. All parts were renewed but it did not improve. Finally, it was decided that the ABS unit was defective. Is the problem really caused by the ABS unit? Or is there another reason?
Morning. I’ve rear wheel steering on an Infinity. I’ve taken the actuator off the rack. It’s open circuit. Any idea on the repair cost for this. Thanks
WOW ! I have 2012 500 sport . Had dead instrument cluster , no break lights , blown fuse , frustrating search for solution . I looked under the rubber conduit under the rear hatch door and found 7 cracked and broken wires . After repairing them All is well . Thank you V much for posting this .
I heard that the instrument cluster contains the immobilizer coding which somehow needs to be transferred from the old to the new cluster. Is this true, or it can just be swapped just like any other regular part?
Excellent.. intuitive video! Question: I have a code P0420 after muffler got cut..replaced with after market and new O2 sensor, but still come back with after ran on freeway 50-60 miles. May I get an advise... Thx !!
Nissan miccra k12 crank, but no start , no ignition coming to the coils . lately. I found that the socket that coming to the ignition coil melted happened twice.
I have a fault code on my MK6 Golf 1.6 P0841 Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch A Range/Performance, ,and P177C Clutch 2 Tolerance Limit Reached. Any idea the cost of repair ?
Hi. We are based in Derbyshire in the United Kingdom, but we offer a worldwide service so you can send your unit into us no matter where you are located! Please follow this link for more information: www.ecutesting.com/contact-us/
I bought a used vehicle and long story short i noticed a u0401 code. Meaning invalid data from ECM. I also have a p0101, and a p0102 if i remember correctly. My father and i also noticed that there seemed to be electrical tape around some wires that are right behind the ECM connector plugs. I found the wiring diagram and found that it seems like a single terminal does not correlate with the correct terminal that the wiring diagram says it should be. When using the continuuity mode, we found that it goes to a terminal position that is supposed to be a selonoid valve of some sort. We think rodent damage to the wires, or some other unkown damage was done to the ECU cables and whoever tried repairing the cables mixed up a few cables, but not enough to completely ruin the ECU, considering thr car still runs absolutely fine without many issues. It doesnt run well at full throttle due to the MAF sensor codes and not recieiving the correct signal to thr ECU. Anyways i had a lightbulb moment after watching multiple videos of yours. I bet the u0401 is caused by the miswired repair that the kast person did. Its causing the maf sensor and IAT sensor to get incirrect readings, and causing the ECU to not recieve valid data and therefor throwing that u0401 code. Could you confirm my suspicions? Im still at work so im not able to work on it, but your input would be absolutely appreciated. Very informative videos!
