I have a early 700 with the original on and off switch that works. I want to keep it that way so I use the switch on a power strip, surge protector to turn it off on with. Much easier to buy another surge protector than doing what you are doing in this video, and cheaper.
That amp can have a turn on surge current approaching 150 amps, so it's very hard on that switch. Also a Unibit works very well for drilling your front panel.
Nice video! I learned something new thanks to you. Going over this morning to a stereo tech repair guy I use to pick up my CT F950 after a major service 👍👍
HI. I just open AL1000 box with bi-amp banana plugs and crossover. I notice that on crossover pcb marked as W+ and W-, wires are connected + to +, - to -, to woofer, but looking at pcb trace, the negative wire from input, from amplifier, is going direct to W+, mean its reversed polarity. Is that normal to be reversed polarity on woofer or its factory mistake?
I also don't have a DC cable, so I can't use the preamp. I want to get this cable and make one myself. How can I buy one? For reference, I live in Korea.
Commented on DYAudio post about these truly beautiful amps. Have had the silver ones and replaced the perspex meterwindows with real glass. And it is of course static electricity...
How does it sound?Neutral to warm or neutral to bright sounding?I remember that marantz cd players had to much uppermids extension?How is the bass?Deep/strong or just ok.
I just watched your video, then I watched one from Kohler and noticed a big difference. The black rubber seal is not supposed to be wrapped around the top metal part (as it is in your video and was in mine). It has to be on the threads of the plastic piece (it acts like a gapper just like the o-ring you added). If you over tighten the top part, it pushes the rubber seal off the threads and you lose your clicking ability. The rubber seal is also directional, one way it stays flipped up after sealing, and the other way it stays down.
Hello Eric, I am having exactly the same issues. I wanted to update my HP 4000 printer with a GB ethernet jetdirect card 625N (officially compatible) to replace my 600N which always worked perfectly. When I put on the new card , it gave an IP address but I think it was a fixed IP from the former owner; I tried to put it in the second EIO slot and it didn't work either. Since then, I have been trying to go back to my old faithful 600N. The configuration page tells me for both ports: "not handled (Code class 7F803C)" . I tried a cold reset but no difference. I am going to try several cold resets in a row as you suggest. But it really worries me that my 600N (which also had a fixed IP), is not recognised anymore. The EIO menu is not accessible anymore... Any advice ? Thanks for any help
The original woofer definitely sounds more dry. The kick drum has more body and weight to it via the DXW15 woofer from Dx9. That woofer is vented also and can stand a beating. Do you have any thought as to why this is? Is the cone way to light or thin on the original woofer compared to DXW15?
Definitely a big difference. With that said I have a pair of 104/2s replaced ferrofluid and reformed donuts .. they don’t sound muffled like your original. I’m fact I played them side by side to my PMC GB1is and Joseph Audio RM22xl and the Kef was as dynamic, detailed and loud. The JA and the Kef bested the little PMC by quite a bit re soundstage and realism. PMC won out for sheer cleanliness but a bit dry.
Hello Eric, I've watched your repotting N1200s videos several times. I am wondering if you contract yourself to do a rebuild? I have three N1200s that I've had since the 80s and sadly they are sounding a little ill,
Hi Rocky. Sorry for the late reply, I did not see this. Go to my site www.MCIaudio.com. There you'll find more info regarding my crossover rebuilding services and my contact info. Thanks.
That’s an impressive difference! Did you also have the tweeter ferro fluid restored in the one on the left, or maybe the tweeter isn’t operating correctly on the one on the right and it needs its ferro fluid changed ? it’s hard to believe just the crossover caps would make that substantial of an impact, the highs are so much more dull on the right hand speaker, it’s almost like the tweeter isn’t functioning.