@@mesut9825 if you have the space a full-size table saw is definitely the way to go. But obviously if you’re going to job sites or have limited workspace, the festival and a track saw work very if you have the space a full-size table saw is definitely the way to go. But obviously if you’re going to job sites or have limited workspace, the festival and a track saw work very well!
@@jeremiahnielson Actually, there is no such thing as a construction site or working in a different place, I have space for Lugano and machines of that size, the prices are almost the same as Festool, I will listen to you, I will buy a larger table saw with a full working table.
Can anyone explain me how can you cut a board of laminate 1m long and 250mm wide at 45° with clean cut on wider side?! Has anyone thought about that, because this saw does the 45° cuts in negative side compared to all classic saws, can anyone come with an answer. Thanks
@@M346VALY Definitely one of the drawbacks of this saw. But I have made lots of clean 45°cuts on it. Just make sure you press down all the way through the cut and tape the other side if you’re afraid of blowout. If somebody could make it aftermarket throat plate for this thing that would be great.
@@M346VALY it does tilt away from the fence, but only enough to cut an angle on a scribe piece. I do most of my mitering with the track saw and then cut the piece to size on the table saw. Where there’s a will there’s a way.
@@markspears1167 definitely! This set up is definitely worth it. Not good for large cabinet sides but great for everything else. And you can band 45 degree edges.
@@markspears1167 lowers and uppers are easy with this but for longer part I would keep the part stationary and run the conturo along the edge. You have to hit the feed button and that is awkward with long parts.
I’m a DIY’er, have a few tools and my battery system is Dewalt. For some years have looked obsessively at table saws trying to find the perfect one… ah… that one is too big, too small, noisy, weak, flimsy, overpowered, a toy, where do I fit that? This Festool rings all (most) the bells. If it was corded it would be an easier decision, but I’m struggling… it’s soooo desirable
This is awesome! I have not had the chance to try dovetails with our bit on my CNC. The other difference between our bit anf the Vortex is that the radius at the top on ours does NOT end with a horizontal cutting edge, but flairs up and out so even if the depth is a bit off, no lines will be left behind.
100%! It’s like the bit was meant for this operation. Absolutely perfect. To be honest, I haven’t even used it for the intended purpose. Only for building dovetail drawers on the CNC.😬. Haha! It’s a very high-quality bit too! I’ve cut miles of dovetails with it and haven’t replaced it yet. Great job guys!
The router bit from microjig, doesnt the rounding go upwards, insted of out to the side, isn’t that a problem? how did you get the rounding perfect? 😮 😀😀 i would love to make this on my new and first CNC 🤩👍👍
Our bit does "flair" at the top. We have a patent on that feature. But if your set up is right, the horizontal cutting edge on the Vortex Bit should not be touching the stock either. With our desing, if the stock runs a bit thick, the cutter will not leave a telltale line along the edges of the joint.
There’s a little trial and error during set up but it’s just like setting up a dovetail jig. If you dive into deep, the it will be too loose and if you cut the pocket to shallow you’ll have a gap. I’ve been too busy to make a follow up video explaining the process but I will soon.
Hi 👋, the issue is going to be that new rules and regulations that have been enforced by the government, I believe later this year, has got have a mechanism on it called SAWSTOP , as there has been a serious amount of accidents on site saw and bench saws , I believe this is due to inappropriate use , insufficient training, using machine with no guard, not concentrating on what you are doing, Be safe , Me nearly, 50 years in my own business joinery cabinet, making workshop, with serious amount of very dangerous machinery, I.e. , surface planer, spindle, mould, re-saw, bandsaw, very large, Watkin radio armsaw , and my favourite Wadkin EKA , @ WADKIN RS8 , wood lathe,
Nice review, considering buying it as well. Just wondering why you don't like using the regular riving knife? I can see the blade guard getting in the way, but the normal riving knife should be ok?
Haha! It was me👎. I had the fence next to the blade trying to skim a little bit of material and the blade is so thin it vibrated and hit the fence. Stupid😐
You can buy them anywhere but I bought mine on Amazon. Expensive but worth it! Amana Tool RC-1028 V Groove... www.amazon.com/dp/B000P4SMXS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Hi, I'd love to see how you did this with the microjig dovetail bit. I just bought the vortex set but haven't used it yet. I'll definitely send it back if I can figure out your method. Thanks!
Hey sorry I didn’t respond earlier. I’m going to make a video on the settings soon but until then I’ll send you a screenshot. But there’s a little bit more involved than just the settings. I changed the diameter of the bit so it would travel a little further.
I hear you. I was already in a committed battery relationship before I started drinking the green koolaid. But I figured it was inevitable so I took the plunge. Now I need to find a used 18v drill.
@@jeremiahnielsonconsider the 12v for 90% of your tasks. Get the 18v only for where you need it. The csx 12 has changed my whole mind on drills. The clutch is awesome & it does like 90% of work for me, I actually have not even used my 18v since I got it. I am sure I will need to, eventually, but the csx 12 has been a workhorse for months and months now.
On my saw the sled doesn’t travel parallel with the blade. And the miter gauge always needs to be tweaked to get it in square. Next video in this saw will be how to dial it in:)
There's a helpful discussion on the accuracy issues on the Festool Owner's Group (FOG) site. On some (all?) of these saws, the sliding table is sloping slightly down. Someone figured out that you can shim the left side of the black plastic height adjuster plates with a strip of blue tape and that brings it up enough so that the slider is flat relative to the solid table top. I was afraid to get into it, but once I got into it, it wasn't a big deal. I also did it for someone else's saw - took all of 10 min. Weird that there isn't an adjustment for that part of the table. Anyway, it's a quick fix - MUCH easier than some other adjustments I've had to make on other saws to get them digitally accurate (25 yr old Delta Unisaw, Bosch contractor's saw, Milwaukee battery-powered saw). Here's a link to pg 5 of that discussion. A user named ElectricFeet put some pics up. www.festoolownersgroup.com/festool-tools-accessories/festool-csc-sys-50-tablesaw/120/ After the adjustment, and after getting the Benchdogs miter fence, I really like the saw. I wish it had better dust collection - maybe something above the blade? Thanks for the video!
The fence is definitely great. It’s the cross cut sled I don’t trust. I don’t feel like mine is ruining parallel with the blade. It’s close enough on short cuts but long cross cut have been off.
Just got this with a set of 4x 8.0Ah batteries. Haven’t really used it yet but I’m encouraged by what you’re saying. Also have the TS 60 track saw because of the ability to use the same blades. Was really close to getting the cordless Kapex, but went with the 120 instead. I’ll be keeping a close eye on this channel.
To be honest I kinda wish I went your route with the 4x battery and the 120. With shutting down my woodshop, I didn’t have a permanent place to set up a saw so I figured the small one would be better at this time. When I start setting up another dedicated shop, I’ll probably upgrade to the 120. Let me know how accurate your saw is once to get it going! Also Thanks for commenting on the video!
The 8.0Ah batteries are great. I have them for a 2 months now and they last a very long time. I love the saw the only thing that isn't accurate with mine is the miter gauge. I have to use a square to set it up.
