This is the Channel presented by Waters & Stanton Ltd. We are a major UK distributor of Radio Communications equipment and our Company was established in 1973. We hope that you enjoy the content and also enjoy reading the comments of our viewers.
NOTE: Of critical importance re: the 710aess HF radio. If you wish to add an external monitor… there are a few critical items to know, which aren’t in any literature. I only learned, by watching YT’s very informative Yaesu 710aess user videos. Other 710aess users will thankfully show you that you may NOT USE a TOUCHSCREEN MONITOR. Also, the video screen connector is the DVI-D tye. This is a rather antiquated connector. Few of today’s monitors are produced anymore with this type connector. The DVI-D adaptor is a dinosaur. So why would a front-runner manufacturer such as Yaesu opt for a monitor with an ancient connector? That, I cannot say. But, you do need to know about it, as you go about the addition of a monitor to your new HF radio. Most monitors created the past many years utilize an HMDI, USB type, and even VGA connectors. Yaesu wants you to preferably choose (DVI-D) to (DVI-D). Some YT videos advise not using HDMI to DVI-D adaptors, along with an HDMI cable. The trouble is some HDMI cables and connectors may allow electrical current to backflow back up into the radio. If that happens, in best cases you’ll blow the onboard, user-inaccessible, protective fuse on the radio’s pc board. This, requiring a stint at the Yaesu Repair Shop. It may or may not be covered by warranty. You may opt for an old-fashionec VGA monitor. With the cable being DVI-D on one end, and VGA on the opposite end. I believe the operative function being that the DVI-D cable is s one-way traffic affair. Energy flowing out from the radio to the monitor, only. No backflow of current. Along the same idea, again- TOUCHSCREEN IS NOT COMPATIBLE WITH THIS RADIO. Which may be the reason for the DVI-D connector on the radio. Budget friendly, new, ViewSonic or other branded and unbranded, DVI-D monitors between 10-15” display size are out there. Monitors larger than 17” are ridiculously outsized, compared with the radio’s size. Good luck. Enjoy. Blessings & 73.
Hello. I’m a new kid on the block and I’m fascinated with the hobby already. My question is, Does the un un go on top of the mast and connect to the aerial or can I use coax from the top and connect the un un at the bottom please?
I've had trouble figuring out how to use the record feature. If I could get it to ,what should be the other folder that's not the test jingle?? And what's it's purpose really?? It would be nice if I could record from the radio itself. I did try doing all Line-In from another radio and tried to record that, with no success! If anyone can tell me how to do it and what's it's purpose that'd be much appreciated! This may be a dumb question. I'm not always one for studying manuals all too much so...Great Video btw! 73!
I've used mains twin and earth wire to make un-uns in the past. Works great. I've used enamelled copper for my latest ones as I've used Colin MM0OPX's preferred torroid for best efficiency, and the turns are closer together/touching on the inside, so need insulation but not as thick as the mains wire PVC insulation.
@@watersstanton My silly error - I meant 3/15 autotransformer and thought I wrote that (I have double vision after cataract surgery). Arrived at by using the convention of counting the turns that pass through the core center. That would be a 25:1 impedance ratio.
Fantastic, thank you! It tuned my 40m dipole to 20m band, where SWR was more than 3. Now, no problem. 50 watts is more than enough on digital modes. I just had an FT8 QSO to China on 20 meters. And yes, I found a mention about in the manual now when I looked for it. I should have read it more precisely, my bad. 73, OH2KAJ
Hi Peter, Thank you. I generally wind my line isolators out of RG-402 to avoid windings tighter than minimum coaxial cable bend radius, also to allow for more turns and better isolation.
Sure, but keep in mind that mix 31 favours the lower bands (160-40 meters). SWR at 20m shows a small rise but still acceptable. I use a pair of stacked mix 31 toroids in my 49:1 transformer, using a 21 turn secondary with a primary tap at 3 turns. (Extra turns increase the inductance for 160/80 which raises efficiency with less core heating. Give it a try. de VK2ACE
One topic I think worth covering is a programme called catsync (download from Google) I have used this for quite a while it enables me to use hf even though I have a noise level that prevents me from hearing stations on hf perhaps it would help others who suffer high noise levels to carry on with the hobby
Hi Peter, excellent video, as usual. I'm putting up a 40m EFHW for my home station. With regard to a 1:1 line isolator, should I have one at the feed point as well as at the transceiver end of the coax, or will one at the transceiver suffice? Thank you for all your efforts in putting these videos togther for us all. James.
Nice video. It would be good to have a review of your linear power supplies, as there is no information readily available for them. Have tried asking W&S, via the web page, but no reply. Having purchased an FT-710 from yourselves, which I'm delighted with, I need a bigger power supply to use it's full potential. I've seen your video on switch mode, but I suspect a linear would meet my needs better. Keep up the good work.
End fed half waves are one antenna I’d never build, because the cost to buy the individual pieces of the same quality of whole assembles companies like Par (Vibroplex) is equal if not greater. Before MFJ went out of business a few months ago, they were still selling good EFHWs for $50. I bought their low power, 25w EFHW for under $40 in 2021. Additionally, you can get an EFHW with a trap that will take the length to 40’. One antenna I would (and just did) build is the VE7CA multi band wire Yagi. Now I have a 2 element beam on 20, 15 and 10 pointed west from my house in the eastern US superior to my EFHw…as long as the station is west of me. Build what you can’t buy, and vice versa. I won’t say it was easy, but it’s worth it.
The problem is that a lot of commercial EFHW transformers use the FT140-43 torroid which really isn't up to 100W. For this version you can actually make it for less as the torroid is only a couple of quid. Making your own, you know exactly what torroid you have (there's a more efficient version than the FT240-43, see Colin, MM0OPX's channel - some commercial manufacturers are starting to use this torroid now).
@@paulsengupta971. Ko4FSZ makes And sells quality EFHW’s from his website. Check it out. They cost about $70 bucks and they’re well built. I can’t quibble with people who want to build their own so that they know exactly what their stuff is made of. But that’s more of an argument from emotion than logic. Building your own hundred watt and fed half wave antenna using high-quality antenna wire that cost $.50 a foot will always end up costing you about 70 or $80 because you’re paying retail prices at a crazy mark-up for the bits. My argument is buy one unless you have the extra wire sitting around. You don’t save any money, Amazon charges $15 here for a single 240-43 core, that’s crazy.
Hi, you’re probably right about the toroid. Even so, I think buying the pieces individually end up costing you more than just buying one that’s commercially made. MFJ used to make inexpensive versions that were quite good, my 35w version cost me $40. There’s no way you could beat that. They are still selling their remaining stock, but prices went up after the pandemic and now they’re about $80 or so. There’s a new guy selling quality EFHW’s for $70-80, KO4FSZ. He’s at a very good price point because he’s basically selling them at what you could make them for at home, but he’s probably building them for less than half of what he’s selling them for because he’s getting the materials wholesale. He has an impressive variety of EFHW’s, including POTA friendly, 25w versions on 3d printed winders. Very cool. He uses FT240-43 torroids in his transformer kits too.
@@kd8opi "There’s no way you could beat that" If it's based on an FT140-43, you could make it for maybe a quarter of that...depending on the wire the antenna's made out of.
@@paulsengupta971 I just don’t think you can. Let’s say you can get the toroid and the box for a total of 10 bucks. I think that’s cheap and I can’t find online pricing that will let me do that but let’s just assume you can. High-quality wire that’ll stand up to storms is about $.50 a foot, about 70 feet, so you’re 35 bucks for that, $45 total. Now you need a coaxial cable connector, additional wire to wind the transformer, some connectors and hardware for inside the enclosure, and a little capacitor that you’ll be over-charged for even if they sell it to you for $1. Best case scenario, with the toroid that even you don’t like, you’re at 55 bucks. Honestly I’d rather pay 20 bucks more and just not go through the hassle of building.
You talked about using 67 feet of wire for the EFHW antenna on 10, 15, 20 and 40 meters., and it just so happens that 67 feet is a quarter wave in 80 meters so if you are like me and stay up all night due to your work schedule you just bypass the un-un. As always please check your VSWR before proceeding. On a personal note Peter, how is you wife doing? If I remember correctly, I think you stated she had mouth cancer when I told you that I have stage 4 head and neck cancer. My XYL and I are keeping both of you in our prayers.
Peter id like to request a specific subject on a future video please. its related direct to this 49:1 [ish].. tell us or show us how to determine turn winding for irregulat transformers like 600 ohms to 50 for balanced. or just general how to for bal or single wire..i underastand 2 in 14 is 7 then 7 sq is 49:1 etc but turns ratio please on ring please..im nit making myself clear sorry. instead of just math show how that comes out in real world winding..ty Sir. i love your stuff as always.5 star stuff
Hi Peter, Great info in the video, however I counted 15 turns on the UnUn several times to be sure. That would make it a 56:1. I believe the rule is every time the wire passes through the core it is a turn. I'm interested in why you started counting at zero. 73 WJ3U
@hansblommers6088 10 uur geleden The point where the wire, connected to the shield of the coax first touches the firite core is the starting point of the first turn, Peter calls that the 0 point, the next time the wire passes that exact same point on the core is 1 full turn. Counting the times that the wire passing though the core is not correct. Peter explains it at: 14:12 min, also that the amount of turns is a bit over 14 due to construction. So the impedance transformation will be somewhere between 49 an 56.
Material should be 43 type. Bigger size means more power handling capability and know that you may need a turn or two more on a smaller 140 to get the same result.
I wish 30m and 15 worked together with an EFHW. They would be a good combination for portable CW operation but 15 doesn't seem to work harmonically with 30. Unless anyone has done this and knows a trick for getting them both on the same antenna.
Can't you just use another bit of wire? Use the same un-un. Should be around a 15m piece of wire for a half wave on 30m. Should also work on 15m and possibly10m if you also use a compensation coil. Ok, that means you can't switch easily to 40/20.
Great antenna. Use one myself and have built several others. Regarding the counterpoise/earth, the key thing to grasp is that the outer of the coax you're feeding it with IS the counterpoise - you don't need one because you've already got one! As long as your line isolator is at least a few metres down the coax away from the UNUN then it works just fine. Great for field days and portable use, and great for those with an upstairs shack where an earth would be problematic
I passed my foundation in 2020 and spent a lot of time researching which HF set was going to be my first. I was not disappointed when the G90 arrived and its still my go-to HF set today. I've used it for ssb voice, FT8, sstv, RTTY contests and even FM repeaters on 10m. I always get great audio reports from the G90. Great video Peter! Ben de M7FRS
Always very practical, common sense and great explanations from you Peter. Thank you so much. I would love to hear you talk about magnetic loops. With weather turning cold, that could be a great indoor build. Thank you again and 73. de KE8TBM
Thank you very much for this very practical instruction. But, I have a question about the number of turns on the core: I have learned that one wire going through the centre of the core is regarded as one winding. If I counted that correctly, in your auto transformer there are in total fifteen wires going through the core. Between the ground end and the tap I count three wires. So in my opinion the winding ratio is three to fifteen. That is an impedance ratio of 1to25. I have been using such an EFHW for some months now and I found that in practice a lower ratio than 1to49 works better. So, your 1to25 ratio might be an improvement.
I have compared my version with a couple of commercial designs and the only difference is a slightly difference in frequency response. Across 2.5K load they were identical.
nice, i like these tutorials, thank you! btw; can i insert a coil 110uH for 80m at the end of the 20m wire and extend with a wire about 1.5m for adjust?
Nice video. I think I will make this. However, can you pls clarify your comment about using a Line Isolator just before the first piece of radio equipment at about timestamp: 19:38 is that different from a lightning arrestor? If not, can I add a lightning arrestor and where would it go? Thank you
A lightening arrestor is a different item and self-destructs with a catastrophic electrical surge . A line isolator helps prevent common mode current from going back to your shack while you operate
Line isolator can easily be made. Use a similar ferrite core and weave around ten turns of the coax feeder around it. Search on my site for line isolator. Cheers. Peter
His reply for a line isolator is spot on. If you head down to watersstanton and want to buy one off the shelf you might want to ask for a 1:1 current balun.
Just rec’d my new 710AESS, bought on your recommedation, sir. It came yesterday. As did my new, View Sonic 17” monitor. Not realizing there was any kerfluffle over monitors and adaptors, cords, etc But, now today, I am learning of all sorts of dangers and warnings against using a non-DVI-D monitor. One which uses any cable other than DVI-D to DVI-D cable. Warnings of frying the boards, popping fuses, electrical arcing, and worse! Why does Yaesu not tell us this in the literiture, etc. I saw no such warnings before buying a new View Sonic 17” touchscreen monitor. Now, I’m worried to even oen the box, in case I need to attempt an exchange. Problem is that I do not find any DVI-D monitors less than 24” nor less than $500- Seems ludicrous to have a 24+” monitor, costing at least $500- You say you’re using a VGA monitor??
@@watersstanton I do watch your thoughtful videos. And I highly respect your experience and insight. That was a strong influencer in my decision to buy this radio. Faced with a good number of choices among the “Big-3” of amateur radio mfgrs., really, most would have been available to me, but I went with the Yaesu 710aess, for several reasons. I will admit that I’m a sucker for the novelty of a 3D waterfall display. Which some find, honestly, quite annoying. I did experience a bit of exasperation, after buying a touchscreen, VGA, monitor online. I suppose my inexperience with external monitors led me to think a touchscreen monitor was a great choice. But, I don’t recall any advisory in the literature against it. I was glad there were some YT videos warning against touchscreen, and why. Whether this radio will replace my Xiegu G-90 is yet to be decided. Sometimes it’s a blessing and a curse to have choices. 73!
I have noticed a few EFHW kits that say *_10-40 meters,_* but I'm not sure why, because they are just an UNUN and winder. Why not 80 meters with an appropriate length of radiating wire? I was wondering if the (supposed) limitation was due to either the value of the capacitor or the ferrite mix used. *73 de AF6AS*
@@ChaplainDaveSparks There’s no difference other than doubling the radiating length to 40m, plus or minus for finding best resonance points. Cut a longer wire, and either work well in inverted L configuration, giving you vertical and some-directional properties.
40-10 metres is more manageable particularly when portable when you will most likely be working during the day when 80 metres is less suitable, but for winter with the long nights, and at a home QTH with a big garden, why not?
@@watersstanton I understand and believe you. I was just wondering why sellers of _EFHW kits_ don't seem eager to make that claim. *73 de AF6AS, Southern California, USA*
@@watersstanton FB and a good video Peter! For an 80m EFHW you may want a tiny bit more impedance in the form of a coil of about 4.5uh 2m form the coax end. I often make the antenna out of magnet wire and 3D print the coil form for the near end. 16 or 17 turns on a 20mm form are fine. This brings all the higher band resonances closer to ideal. Edit to clarify: 2m from the coax on the antenna wire itself.
Could you do a video sometime that explains why some hams say a yagi is better than an efhw for example? I get that you can get dbi gain in a given direction with a yagi, can dbi gain not be achieved with an efhw?
@@HamRadioN0CKL A Yagi is usually single band and directional, so you have to "aim it" in your preferred direction. HF Yagi's are usually electrically shortened with tuning coils. to make them rotatable, but they are still big lumps of alloy. The EFHW is multi-band and can be bent into all sorts of small spaces. I've only got 30 ft or so length to the bottom of the garden So the EFHW bends back on itself in a lazy V I also have a coil to at the end to enable me to add 80m with is a few feet of wire rather than another 20m of wire. It works, not well but it gets out of 80 and is better than nothing, The Yagi will normally give a better signal in its main direction than the wire. But if you can't fit a yagi in your garden that's a moot point 🙂 Andy
