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Hello 3D Printing Friends!
Since I got my first 3D printer in July, 2017, I've been learning the ins and outs of 3D printing and 3D modeling. I love sharing the fun of 3D printing, and the sense of accomplishment you get from designing and printing something that has never before existed!
---- Twitter: @bryan_vines Buy Me a Coffee: www.buymeacoffee.com/5lKshEVvL PayPal me: www.paypal.me/bv3d
Hey just wanted to add and it's a shame i can't post photo's but Aria dragon i have printed back when it was on thingiverse many years on the flashforge creator pro, certainly took more than a couple hours, it's one of the few decorative prints i do.... trip down memory lane so i grabbed the STL and printed it on the Q1Pro in PETG-CF, 1hr 20minutes for the print. Little bit more stringing than you had but I tend to print PETG a bit hot. Next i'm going to splice together some different coloured PLA and do it again Very nice using the Dragon rather than the same default prints everyone else seems to use Cheers
Another person who just got the set up steps WRONG..... the manual bed level process is only to be used IF the auto setup has an issue with getting it right.... sadly this then confuses people who run this when it is not required
HI, no need to yell. On the Tool screen, it's the first of three calibration operations. The lack of documentation can lead one to decide that the correct thing is to perform each of the three options in order from left to right. To me it seems like it's the sort of thing that only needs to be run once, as I noted in the video. There were, in fact, minor adjustments to be made. However, I submit that on a fully-automatic bed leveling system, adjustment knobs are unnecessary.
After trying to get pronterface to connect for like, an hour now, I think I can decisively conclude that pronterface and printrun are just garbage software.
A good month of replacing parts to fix the issue and it was the PID all a long.....of course I had no idea about PID until enough searches brought me here! 30 min later and temp is locked it!
weird. I guess they fixed the bed leveling process in new firmware. I set mine up about 2 hours ago and bed leveling did not making me do the manual calibration first ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-6KbBS9-Rix8.htmlsi=zp6Gpe6yQrgQy2yt&t=716
I got this printer on Amazon a couple weeks ago. I thought it would be a good alternative to the Bambu X1E. I intended to use it to print large ABS parts. It did not work for me. First, the printer really did not like having the chamber heated to 55ºC. It creaked and cracked and made all sorts of noises. And the smell of the internal parts off gassing whatever chemicals the plastic is made from was nasty smelling (this was before I even printed anything). The outside of the enclosure became uncomfortably-hot - nearly as hot as the inside so the paper-thin insulation they are using does not do much (I also think it contributes to the smell). The prints ended up coming out okay, but the build sheet they provided really sheds the PEI coating quickly on the bottom of the prints (I did let the bed cool completely first). I used it hard for about a week and the plastic enclosure started to show signs of warping. I do not think this is a good printer to have an active-heated chamber - way too much plastic. Also had some issues with first layer calibration as it would keep resetting and printing way too low or high (changed on every print). I do like that it is running Klipper, but it's locked down to FLUIDD interface that cannot be updated without breaking (standard with Klipper but be prepared for a lengthy upgrade process if the firmware stops working as there would be a lot of work necessary to get it running again). The lighting on the interior is great! The camera is okay, but the timelapses are bad because the printhead is usually in the way. I like that they put the power button on the side, but it still poops out the back so good luck accessing! The top handles are kind of useless where they're located - they should be on the side and bottom to be useful. The AMS looks cool, but not available yet. I also like the ethernet port and no need to make an account to start printing right away. The slicer is okay, but not exactly the same functionality as others especially with machine control. Also, the little nozzle cleaning pad at the back has already been destroyed by the nozzle - it is not a very good part of the nozzle cleaning system that they made. Anyway, since I don't think this printer will last very long at the temps I run it, it is going back to Amazon (save the packing!)
@@DianosAbael I do have a few Vorons built (V0 / 2.4), and a few more waiting to be built (Trident / Switchwire). It's not quite the same though as there is no active heating in them and I would have to replace the plastic panels with metal which would not be fun. Just curious why you would suggest this on this post?
I was going to get a X-Max 3 , I’m not sorry I delayed the purchase. This is just the printer my household needs. Printing flexi dragons for the kids or something technical for the shop the perfect printer.
Your footage of the internal cam looks like it still has the "clear" plastic tab over the lens. Once I removed mine it looks pretty darn good for 1080p Also, as mentioned in another post. Upgrade the firmware to that on the github. The interface changes a bit and the presliced benchy still completes in 16 minutes and looks easily as good as my X1C... using the small sample pla included with the Plus4
Wow dragons all came out beautiful! The PAHT-CF prints look excellent too. Got my Plus4 not long ago and I'm really enjoying it. I'm getting really high precision. Print in place bearings with 0.02mm clearances that come off the bed with zero fusion. I may try even lower. I still have a lot more testing to do, but no issues so far. I think the Plus4 along with the Q1 Pro are the most capable printers available for the money. I think the Plus4 needs a few tweaks for sure, but the overall positive nature of reviews so far demonstrates it's a great foundation. Thanks!
Would you consider this for a 'first' 3d printer? If not what would your consider the best? Cost is always an issue but not a controlling concern. Just getting started.
ABS prints faster cause once heated is way more fluid improving flow. And requires less cooling as well so depending on the cooling system can usually go faster with reduced layer time.
@@BV3D whilst that sounded good the real reason is that Qidi for some reason sets their max volumetric flow rate very conservative at 12mm3/s for PETG whereas ABS is set at 17mm3/s in the generic profiles, this will make a significant time difference itself
As a long time qidi and bambu user you won't be disappointed with either. Qidi does the exotic materials and has the larger build volume while bambu has better quality with pla and petg with a much better online app. All 4 I have run almost 24/7 (q3max, q1pro, p1s, and a1).
I have 2 X1 carbons but I'm no hardcore fanboy I've heard a lot of good things about this company as well but from my experience with what I have used my 2 X1 carbons have been absolutely phenomenal workhorses of machines with over 1500 Printing hours on both of them and one was original Kickstarter unit I'm backer number 766 I believe it was it's really up to u but if u have little ones any of the bamboo printers can do multicolor and you can print right from the app from tons of models on their maker World site that other people have designed and uploaded
Hy Bryan! Nice to see you testing this machine. I like the QIDI x-Plus 3, but it looks like the Plus 4 brings A LOT more advantages - competition is getting more interesting all the time.
I'm not sure if you have the latest firmware update, but as of 1.4 QIDI added a cool feature to the printer allowing it to turn into a filament dryer. Also you shouldn't have to use the manual bed leveling. This is only used if you need to change the bed level manually for odd prints. This is the only printer that gives you this option.
its been geting good reviews and feedback from early users. I have an xmax3, as soon as i seen the specs, features, etc i knew it was going to be a better xm3 but smaller. Im glad we are finally getting competition in the industry. Thanks for the great review, i really want to see this go head to head with xm3 and k2 plus when its availible.
I think I'll keep mine next to my a1. I like the peace of mind if not having to wake up to a loud crash and find my $500 printer displayed on the floor broken all over the place. I'm sure it's safe but no thanks
I just got 2 of these. I originally just got the 1 and just loved it so much that I got a 2nd one. LOL As for the magnetic plate, it's actually reversible, as I found out. One side is textured, while the other side is smooth. In the slicer, you can actually select which side you'll be printing to. Pretty cool, actually. So at 7:00 you see him remove the screen protector with the big yellow warning sticker! On the 1st printer I got, that's how it was. But on the 2nd one, I guess someone at the factory forgot to put the plastic protector of it and stuck that stupid yellow stick right to the screen! IT WAS A HORRIBLE EXPERIENCE to get that off of that! I almost thought that I'd have to return this for another one. But, with patience, I got it off and the display is clean and works fine. BUT, on that same machine, once I got it together and started to do the first runs with it, if FAILED the self check!!! Of all things, it complained about the PCB fan! I'm a tech, so no problem just taking the back off. It turns out that the plug on the fan was not pushed tight into the motherboard. It just fell off. I just pushed it back on tightly, put the bottom back on and the self-check passed. On the 1st machine, the issue there was the tiny little connector for the top limit switch. The wire with the female pin was out of the connector! I had to use my big magnifier to see it up close, only to discover that the little locking tab was pushed down into the pin! Therefore, not only would it not lock into its connector, but the male pin on the other connector couldn't slide into the connector due to the pin being pushed down. I was able to push the pin back up into its position. Then, I noticed that the male pin, in fact, was pushed up (bent) which means that at the factory, SOMEONE saw this issue but didn't address it. THAT IS POOR QUALITY CONTROL in both of these cases! As for the latest slicer, I did download that rather than using what's on the USB key. It's 5.1.4 and now, looks nothing like version 4! Ver 4 had a Cura feel and flow to it. This 5.1.4 thing, while it works beautifully, is not user friendly. It does take some getting used to as things are no longer in logical locations. THIS IS IMPORTANT.... for those who want to get the Nebula camera. First, it works well. I ordered a 2nd one for the other machine. But here's a fun fact! There's only 1 USB port on this printer and I wondered if a tiny, old USB hub I had laying around would work. Well, IT WORKED! I have both the USB key and the camera plugged in and it just works. Wonderful machine, especially after dealing with a nasty Wanhao D9 MK2 400.
I printed all mine solid front. (No hydrometer). As there is a reading on the Bambu Studio. I use the PolyDryer to dry mine. I printed two sets, so can alternate.
I've been using these boxes alongside the AMS Universal Spool Desiccant Holder from ShinyBoolits on MakerWorld. Each spool also has a Desiccant Holder for extra drying and my humidity inside the AMS stays within the teens and gets as low as 10%
I have upgraded to the sprite horned and I can’t get it to work. I need help with the plug on the motherboard I can’t get the horned to home and go up and down.
