Porsche specialist workshop in Sydney South Sutherland area. Visit us at: emdporschespecialist.com.au Address: 3/20 Resolution Drive, Caringbah NSW 2229 Australia
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You mentioned at the beginning that the car is a T-Roc R. However, it seems to be a T-Roc R-Line instead. This can be seen from the missing R button on the steering wheel and the speedometer going up to 260 instead of 320.
Suffering the exact same on an '05. Can you list the test procedure or provide a link to it? What did you diagnose as the problem? The mechanic says I should replace alternator but that's a hefty part and before I do that, I feel there's a few other things in the way that should be ruled out, such as the battery control ECU behind the main battery.
I removed loom bracket from sump. 2 screws. I made up 2 new brackets to hold the loom in as close as possible to area above sump so the belt is in front of this loom. Stupid design as you can't get the belt off without removing the loom bracket. I took the whole front of car off to fix this. So I could work on repositioning the loom behind the belt.
How about changing the Gear fluid on a Porsche 944 Automatic??? What is the capacity??? Do you drain it from the fill plug???? I don’t think there is a drain plug like the manual transmission cars….
The part you are showing leaking is a VOSS Quick Connect 249LB connection apparently you need to replace the full set according to Mercedes as the component become heat effected and break. the fuel lines plus leak off waste joints can be found ranging anywhere between $150 - $360. Trying to find an after market fix Diesel Systems Australia have these as part number CMR151-145 but have been found not to hold and keep blowing off. Still on the hunt for a fix to this as an after-market speed shop set made out of alloy.
I work on a lots of Mercedes convertible top most of time are switch are faulty sometimes hydraulic I got 1 ECU problem but never run in to wiring harness. I hope you got the right tool to work on this type of car.
Are these units coded to the car or would a second hand unit work and you can drive home temporarily repaired because this looks a common problem with these Audi s on if you a second hand unit just plug into the second hand unit and you can then drive home temporarily repaired and get it sorted properly the main question is are these units coded or not they just look like relays and switch thanks for a great video this type of information is always kept secret in the trade
When you separate the inner door card from the main door structure, you have to unplug a small black connector, and a white connector. My white connector decided to disassemble itself. Do you know what to call the switch that the white connector plugs in to, and maybe a part number? Thanks!
Mine does the same driver system fault and it says msx speed 5500 and can’t go over 30mph And now the engine light is on ?! So what’s the problem ?!!! Thank you
Does anyone know what the rest of those relays are for ? I think my car has the wrong relay in slot # 7. Is the 643 relay different from a 645? I’ve also seen a 373 used for the air compressor. Please help!!
the leaks are impossible to see without removing the bottom cover/tray correct? If I use a endoscope/snake camera is it possible to check for timing cover or valve cover leaks?
Ok … doesn’t say how to fill the system? Doesn’t say where to proceed after installation, how to add oil , or where is connected, if people haven’t got a scanner tool, how to bleed manually … this video is totally USELESS. Doesn’t shows anything to improve in my car or any car … nothing steps by step as another videos to show you how to .
@@emdporschespecialistcaring8975 awesome one last question is there a trick to getting the gears back on the cam shaft ? I tried for two hours today and couldn't get the gears on the chain feels to tight and yes the tensioner is out . 😢
So if bank 1 camshafts are off by 2 degrees (locking tool in place on bank1 US driver side) then take off the sprocket cover for bank 1 and loosen up the 16mm nut while holding down the 30mm nut on the intake camshaft and loosen up the 4 exhaust sprocket bolts then turn the crankshaft 2 degrees until TDC locks in place while the sprocket and intake camshaft end disc slide then tighten all 4 sprocket bolts and 16mm nut ? All this without taking out the camshaft / valve cover?
I have oil in my coolant ? Before i start stripping parts off , could anyone shed any insight of what it could be , cars never overheated drives perfect , no oil leaks
If 2 of my wires going into my immobilizer harness pulled out does anyone know how to reconnect them? I’m not sure if the pins are broken off inside the harness, but if there are pins, I am not seeing them at the end of the wires that pulled out, so I am assuming they are broken off inside the harness connection. Just trying to understand how to reconnect the wires so they have a good connection and I do not have issues once reconnected. Thanks so much!!
