Hi, It is possible to upgrade, although I would recommend building a v1.3 Beta for best results. Here are the instructions for the v1.3.2 STEM Payload PCB which replaces the v1.2 STEM Payload PCB. github.com/alanbjohnston/CubeSatSim/wiki/v1.3.2-STEM-Payload-Board-Upgrade Good luck
In Tunisia, thinking about creating such a satellite is considered a crime, and restrictions are being imposed on anyone who thinks about this accomplishment
The religion is pro pursuit of science believe it or not... its often the practitioners of said religions/the conservative law makers who make these stupid laws@steveadams7550
I have built the payload board and everything seems to be working fine except I2C3 is showing fail. Is this because I have not installed the BME280. The dual battery SMD holder is presently unavailable everywhere I have looked is there another source or replacement?
Hi Johnny, I believe you started with the blank PCBs and have ordered parts to build your CubeSatSim, right? If you could post your question on our GitHub Discussion page, we can help you out github.com/alanbjohnston/CubeSatSim/discussions Alan
Thanks for great step-by-step. I had a question about the stacking headers used. In the BOM there are two stacking header (adafruit product id 1979 and 2223). When should each one be used? In the "by step" tab, they all share the same reference J1 (is that intentional?) Thanks so much!
@@ku2y Ok, That's interesting. I used a different stacking header (maybe from amazon), which is shorter than the 1979, but then when stacking the boards I had too large of a gap, even with the push-offs. So I would imagine that I need a shorter stacking header to get the spacing, and not a longer one.
Hello, I'm on this step, but FoxTelem isn't receiving any telemetry. I see "Audio missed: 100%". Checking with webSDR I am reading the CW ID well, but I can't seem to get any telemetry. Is this a known issue?
Couple of quick questions I had while watching this great video. What temp is your soldering iron set to and what kind of ‘putty’ are you using to keep the components in place? Thanks
Hi, I like my soldering iron on the hot side, so around 350C. I use blue putty (sometimes known as "blue tak" or "fun tak") such as this: www.amazon.com/Loctite-Fun-Tak-Mounting-2-Ounce-1087306/dp/B001F57ZPW/
That is true, although there have been successful GPS experiments in space. This is a CubeSat Simulator, a functional model of a CubeSat for the classroom, so it is not designed to go to space but for studying here on earth.
That’s correct. The CubeSatSim has a Pi Zero inside it. Step 2 installs the software for it. This step is setting up the Ground Station that receives the radio signals from CubeSatSim. You can use your own PC for the Ground Station, or you can use another Raspberry Pi such as the Pi 4.
This isn't designed for a space mission - it is an educational model for demonstrations and learning. Everything is on GitHub github.com/alanbjohnston/CubeSatSim
Alan, when I start Gpredict, The round diagram N-S-W-E and sat data appear BELOW the map. How do you make it appear to the right of the map as yours is in this video? Thanks, Dean, CE4JDM
Hi Dean, go under the Edit menu then select Preferences then Modules then in the Layout tab, select the Select Layout dropdown then select Map Table Polar and Single Sat (Wide) option. I like this view best, but you can try the other options too. Good luck and 73, Alan
The Pi 3 works with everything except for the power supply. The 5V boost converter can’t supply enough current. You will either have to power the Pi 3 directly or find an alternative boost converter circuit that will supply enough current.
Thanks Alan. I've started a build but paused it to try and get hold of the purple boards as they were hard to get and very expensive. I have the Pi on board so at least it beacons.
Hi Graham, good luck with your CubeSatSim project! We no longer recommend the purple INA219 boards as they are expensive, hard to find, and have a high failure rate. Instead, look for the blue INA219 boards - they are a little larger, so you have to mount them on sockets or otherwise get creative so they fit. Feel free to share your progress or ask questions on our GitHub Discussion Board github.com/alanbjohnston/CubeSatSim/discussions
Hii sir I am a engineering student from India We are planning a satellite 🛰️ As a computer science student My job is to make an software for our satellite Can you guide me please..
I looked at the schematic on your GitHub page and could not find a coms board. It's implied that the telemetry on 434.9 MHz is generated using PWM output of the raspberry pi zero and filtered using the low pass filter. Is this correct? At what power level is it transmitting? 73, DE WA4OSH
When you change modes it seems to be fairly immediate, ive just finished putting one of these together and when I change mode inseams to be rebooting. in addition I can only get FSK mode toward reliably. Any clue why this might be?
Hi Devlin, I’d need to see your logs to be sure. It should not reboot each time you change modes. If you share some logs (the output of CubeSatSim/log command on the Pi) on the GitHub Discussion page we can troubleshoot it: github.com/alanbjohnston/CubeSatSim/discussions
He's created an overview and a whole series of RU-vids that detail every part of this project. You just need to binge-watch them, buy the parts and build it!
hello, I'm having an issue with starting the cubesatsim only with batteries. When I remove the RBF, I can see red light on the 5V regulator, yellow blink on the rasberry pi 2, and the red power light on the STM32F board, but the green, blue lights on the main board are always off, no telemetry is transmitted. I'm sure the batteries are fully charged, do you have any idea what has caused the issue? thanks in advance!
Hi! The green LED on the Main board comes on when the CubeSatSim software runs on the Pi Zero. If you never see the green LED turn on, it is probably a software problem. When you did Step 2 github.com/alanbjohnston/CubeSatSim/wiki/2.-Software-Install did you write the image or did you do a manual software install? If you log into your Pi, you can check the log by typing: CubeSatSim/log That will tell you if the software is running and if there are any errors. Good luck!
@@ku2y Thanks for your quick reply. I just checked the log and it turns out the battery voltage was too low, so the system shuted down automatically. Gonna try another set of batteries...
@@enscima2202 When you plug in your USB charging cable, the red Main board LED will light up and the battery voltage will jump up to a value around 4V. You can measure the voltage of the battery pack on the Battery board with the + and - pins. The batteries will fully charge in a few hours.
@@ku2y I changed a set of batteries and measured a 3.9V on the battery board. When I keep the Pi plugged in the log says the battery voltage is around 3.8V which will not shut down itself. But the CubeSatSim software still does not start(no green light) after I unplugged the Pi. btw it works well with USB cable plugged into the Pi or the main board.
@@enscima2202 You are using a Pi Zero 2, right? On boot, it draws a huge current for a moment, up to 400 mA. This can cause the battery voltage to drop suddenly causing the shutdown. The latest software tries to avoid this. Are you running the latest software? Log into your Pi when it is on your internet and type CubeSatSim/update Or, just note the version number when you type CubeSatSim/config When you plug the USB charger in, do you see a small red LED on the Main board NiMH charger board? Does this LED go off after a few hours of charging?
Hi Graeme, we no longer use the purple INA219 modules. They are hard to find and most of them don’t work. Use the blue ones instead. Due to their larger size, you’ll need to put them on sockets or use headers to raise them up. See the latest BOM: CubeSatSim.org/bom Good luck!
Hi Alan, found a trap loading the software. If you unzip the GZ file and try loading the iso file directly with balenaEtcher the software won't run. You need to run the GZ file with balenaEtcher to get it to run. 73, Terry ZL2BAC
Hi Terry, that's interesting - I've never tried it that way. I usually do it directly using the URL without ever downloading the image file, as they are so huge.