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You do a good job explaining, but you need to find a stand for your camera, and figure out a system for lighting what you are filming. (maybe an led light strip?) There are way too many sections where I could see nothing.
I do not have that access panel unfortunately. I have to take off the panel on the top. Do you have any advice for removing the component buttons? Just pry?
They usually snap in. if you just pry they either won't come out or will damage the retaining tabs and won't stay in afterwards. you need to compress the tabs from the other side then pop them up and out.
This worked on my craftsman 33 gal. Great video. Thank you for your contribution to the working class. Did exactly what you did. My cover was also loose. 🙋♂️✌️🇺🇲
I have a 95 Ford pick up with the EC4 computer with OBD 1 can I replace that computer with an EE5 from a 96 truck computer which would give me OBD 2 diagnostics ? Thanks
Its not that simple. 96s have a 1 year only EFI system. Many connectors are different including the EEC. They have a 96 only harmonic balancer and crank sensor plus downstream oxygen sensors. You can make it works but it takes alot of wiring.
I just bought a 2006 GMC Envoy Denali XL that the blower wouldn’t work. Checked the blower motor, and the blower control/resistor per the video and both checked out. I had a spare automatic climate control panel from my 2002 GMC Envoy, switched it out and the blower began working as new. Usually the blower control/resistor is the culprit but not in my case. Thanks for the great video…
I have a 5 HP flathead, first of what they called the 12000 Series, that has the same problem only the bearings on the smaller ones are just bores in the case. I did the valves in it, put a steel valve guide on the intake, got it all together and "clunk clunk clunk" and the armature was shorting out the coil. I've not seen anyone try to bore those out and drive in a bronze bushing or the like to use as a new bearing surface. Shame, the engine's been well.maintained for 25 years, everything's good in the bore...just a sloppy top bearing. Hate to scrap it, but.... Anyone ever try this?
@@pfun41 on one engine i seen someone had 2 diodes on the coils ground wire plus size going up to the coil and minus going to the key switch so i cut those off it and spliced the wire back without the diodes on and now it shuts off how its supposed to
Any way you can add the model numbers of your capacitors - i know one is 52A105185P1 which is the Mallory - trying to get the GE capacitor model number.
I know this is an older video, but I want to thank you for your awesome thorough step by step fix on the AC. My 2003 Envoy sat for 2 years. New battery and AC stuck and wipers stayed on. I wish I could just take it to you. Again thanks a bunch
hi is there any way i could get ahold of you outside of youtube? if not i have a 2009 dakota with a 4.7 and saw your video swapping a dakota engine into a 1500. would vice versa be applicable and i could just swap my dakota mounts etc and slap the 1500 into the dakota?
My 20 hour Koehler twin mower wouldn't start. Of course it was the solenoid. I've used nothing but non-ethanol fuel and it's never is idle for more than a month. I keep fresh fuel in it. I sprayed with carb cleaner several times and a lot of rust ran out. Took about 10 times for the cleaner to run out clear. Now it's working. Could it have been from standing at the dealer I bought it from? Maybe they had 10% ethanol in it. Thanks.
Cool thank you. I’m now going to set the compass in my 2002 trail blazer with 350,000 miles on it. That’ll be one thing that actually works in this thing.
As the price for used cars go up, i tend to keep older cars are repair them. I used this video today to help diagnose an engine noise. Thank you for the video, it timeless as these Duratecs are still on the road.
Wow, thanks for that. My compressor has the exact same problem. Kept popping the circuit breaker could not figure it out. I was about ready. Throw it away.
when I took my nikki carb bowl off and plastic body off, A small brass jet fell out of somewhere and I think it fits into the bottom of the long plastic main jet housing and butts up against the main jet brass to brass. I didn't see one in the bottom of your plastic jet housing but you never really showed that angle. Am I correct about where this small jet goes? Many thanks !!
I am going thru the same problem and was watching this video to see a good explanation. When I opened my Nikki carb, I found that small jet with the o ring loose on the bottom of the bowl. It appears to go into a port in the top of the metal housing. I tried to place it the plastic housing below the brass pick up tube and that didn't work. I had the flooding carb situation and I am sure it was due to the worn larger o ring that goes on to the plastic float assembly. The small loose brass jet didn't help either. Now waiting for a parts kit to complete a rebuild. Hope your carb repair worked out.
