Doug Does Stuff is exactly what it says, Doug. Does stuff. I have more hobbies than a hobby store! You never know what the next video is about because anything and everything is game. I'm a real world dad/husband just making content that pleases me and hopefully helps others!
I had a spot on my bed that was having adhesion issues at one point. I just cleaned it with some dish soap, warm water, and a soft sponge and it started working perfectly again. I'm pretty sure it was oil from my skin touching the plate that was causing the problem.
12:12 I had some issues with stringing with CC3D filament. At first I thought it was because I had just transitioned from Cura slicer to Orca slicer. Printing from Cura yielded the same results. Digging around in Orca, I came across filament settings. I looked up the specs and settings for the CC3D filament and dialed that in. Let me tell you, it made the world of difference. I see plenty of videos on dialing printer settings which does apply to filaments to some extent. But in my research, different filaments can require different tweaks such as extrusion rate. I’m averaging about two multiboard tiles every other day, so I understand just wanting to be done and on to the next project. Hopefully you’ll be done soon. Best regards.
Meanwhile my V2 neo has a 9x9 mesh using klipper via the sonic pad. 0 issues with bed level once you get your z offset *perfect* using a feeler gauge and some live z babystepping
I think my bed has issues, my corners are dead on to each other, but there is some warping through the bed. Convinced that is my issue (or part of). I need to understand and look up the feeler gauge z-offset. I set with a piece of paper. What is your Neo set up with? Stock cooling? Bowden or direct? Thanks!
@@dougdoesstuff24 My cooling duct is upgaded with 2x5015s and printed shroud. Has a Sprite SE DD extruder. the feeler gauge offset is just a more precise/consistant way compared to paper. tempered glass should (almost) perfectly flat, the bed could be out of parallel with the gantry. Running klipper with a sonic pad was one of the single best mods i have done to my printer
Yeah, I need to figure out how to get better cooling. The 2 5015s sound nice. I have the Sprite SE, but it has given me nothing but problems on my sonic pad, which is why I uninstalled for now. Maybe I didn't have the right firmware chosen.
@@dougdoesstuff24 Which sprite se did you get? There are 2, ones ment for the normal ender 3 and the other is ment for the NEO. They have slightly different offsets for the bowden tube. The main difference is the mount bracket being different.
@@lonewolfsstuck I got the Sprite SE for the Neo v2. I have one for my E3 Pro and yes the brackets are different. I made sure I measured the bowden tube and get it right. Just never could get it to work right.
Yeah, I just retrammed and it is dead on for each corner, but what a warp through the middle. I ordered a glass bed to see if I could get a difference result. Cause why not throw more money at it. :(
Sir! If you are up for one more test, i would HIGHLY recommend trying different slicing software. Ive been using Cura on and off for years and just recently tried others for better results. Lychee is one of them. I have the same 3D printer you do and before that, i had the original Ender 3
I just might have to. I have my E3Pro running and it is doing great with the same files which is weird. I really think I have mostly a hardware issue in front of me. I ordered a glass bed to see if I could get a better bed mesh. We will see. But, yes, another slicer test might not be the worst.
@@dougdoesstuff24 Filament quality helps and make sure you don't have bed wobble if you haven't checked that. Hopefully you can get things working as they should 🤞
I saw the multiboard guys video. he does it by putting a PETG layer between the PLA 8x8 prints. means you need one of those fancy bambool ab multi filament printers. I am trying to see if i can do this on my ender 3. and good to see you have done it. I am tired of printing one at a time every 5 hours. please share your tips on how to achieve this stack on a ender3 like printer and what settings would help with separating the prints
Honestly, before I went about messing with my E3Pro it was printing solid as you could see in the videos. When I tried the darn Sprite extruder SE is when my problems started. I just had a basic cura normal profile with a few changes to walls and ironing and it was working.
The best thing I've ever done for my sanity and my wallet was to take a hammer to my Creality printer, and to then go out and buy a Bambu Labs printer.
My experience with the Ender printers is, they are a great printer if you don't actually care about printing things, but you love to fiddle with the printer constantly.
Best thing I did for bed adhesion is get a dipped plate, either sliceworx in the US or KDEAVI from aliexpress, things just stick! Coming from an Ender 3 with a glass bed and lifted corner after lifted corner, I won't be going back!
The latest CURA version. After I downgrade some of my upgrades I'm going to try the latest version and if that doesn't work go to an earlier version that was working for me
I was running 200, but with the sonic pad it was going FAST. I need to do more work on this thing. I really think the issue is the direct sprite extruder, that is when all the issues started with both printers.
Bro, just get yourself an A1! Bambu labs is really done a good job. I’ve modded ender 3, 5’s I had my fun but now I’m having a lot more fun just printing what I want when I want without having to tinker as much.
@@dougdoesstuff24 I second @LarryBerg 10000% !! I used to tinker with an Ender3 style printer (Eryone ER20). Replacing the extruder with a highend one and flashing it with Klipper improved things quite a bit but still, always tinkering without ever getting anything completely clean and fast... I finally got an A1, and WOW !! It's just another world. Every print is clean, it prints fast (3h15 for a 8x8 plate), it's as close to automatic as it can be... you really should take the leap. Honestly, I nearly didn't ever print anything useful with my previous printer, because I feared how much I would have to tinker to get a good result. Now I can't stop printing, everything I find interesting and useful. I just download the file, check some general settings (usually defaults are OK), hit print, and use it. Bambu Lab did a wonderful job on this printer, especially at this price point of 350€.
@@dougdoesstuff24 I'll second that. Bambu Lab really has made jumping into 3d printing much more accessible. Within minutes of unboxing my unit, I had a flawless benchy. So far, the only major frustration I've had has been trying to deal with setting up Sunlu TPU. Once I finally got it all worked out, it's printing great as well.
@@dougdoesstuff24 I definitely sympathize with wanting to get it good off the plate. There's also something to be said for taking what's realistically acceptable so one can move on with the overall project. I just finished an extremely frustrating project (finished for now) that I ultimately chose to accept the cosmetic defects in the first 1/6th of the project and use each next piece to refine. I'd already wasted too much filament. Keep up the great work and best of luck!
Doing the same 4 stack on my K1 Max and it's going to take 24hrs, and I thought that was too long lol. Still using my Creality CR10 as the "parts" printer, and it's doing 15hr prints at about the same speed as the Ender 3 Pro. The biggest thing about both these printers is the removeable spring steel built plate - it's a game changer for removing prints from the bed, even really small ones come off so easy.
@@dougdoesstuff24 yeah quality is primary when you have things you see each and every day. At times I want to get another printer to get these jobs done quicker, but I might just have to dust off the old CR10-S5 and get it working on some of the items as well. I think I have 3 weeks of printing left just for the next multi board project, then I want to start on the tool storage
If I was in your place. I would go ahead and bite the bullet and buy the $299 5M FlashForge 3D printer and be done with it. Way way faster print speeds and well worth the money. Buy once cry once. You only need to buy it once, and then you have something good to use from now on.
@@dougdoesstuff24 I hear ya. You would be glad you did. But I understand. I'm printing a sheet of single, double, and quad 8mm screw mounts on my K1 max and a sheet of small threaded screw mounts on my ender 3 v2 neo as I'm typing. Got T bolts on file ready to start as soon as one of them is finished. I love the multiboard stuff. I was looking at the community build post a while ago for some shelf mount inspiration. Lol. I got so much planned out.
@@dougdoesstuff24 Nice! If you end up moving to Orca Slicer, OctoPrint, or have any questions please let me know I'm also newish to it but have compiled marlin after installing a direct drive Revo nozzle. Always happy to help maybe some of my failures could save you some time. I'm thinking about trying the multi board and appreciate you sharing
The draft lift arms are probably not clocked in the right position. Very little movement up & down. Should be nearly 4" of travel. To adjust the deck height. It must be in the raised position. Turn the adjuster dial to raise or lower. Then lower the deck to see the actual cutting height.
2 days to print that is insane, I think my mostly stock sidewinder X2 could do that in 8 hours or so, I suggest you speed up the print head, get a 0.6mm nozzle which will let you set the layer height to 0.5mm which is awesome for churning out stuff like this
Careful with that advice-- first, the stacks are designed for 0.2mm layer height. The "gap" between layers is 0.2mm. Also, the recommended print is 3 walls, and about 15% infill. On my Bambu X1C, "mostly" default settings, a stack takes 11 hours. The first three layers have ironing enabled for top surfaces. Also, unusually on the multiboard, each hole (big and little) is threaded. This means you can thread in pegs, connectors, etc., but it also means that each hole is threaded, and I haven't tested how large layer heights work on multiboard.
@@johngelnaw1243 Hey there. Thanks for chiming in. I did see that about the .2 layer height. I have no intention of changing nozzles until I figure this thing out. Again, thank you!
