When you add firmware via SD card on Ender 6, insert the card, and first then turn printer on. If there is no file present when printer comes on, it will not be looking anymore.
The same page shows me different types, wich goes from 0,5 A to 0,9 A. And thats only the specs at 25°C. When you work with active headbed and its come to an ambient temperature from about 60°C in the printer work room, then the max. current goes down. Thats shown it the most datasheets. Did you pay attention for that?
This wouldn't work for me, but I'm sending multiple STL's on a build plate. What is working though, is send the files I want to the printer, connect to the printer via FTP, and rename the file. It's been very reliable.
Thanks for that one. Its not even the screens board fault. I 've migrated from MKS1.4 to OctopusV1.1 control board. Both boards have the connectors for this screen, but the V1.1 pinout is flipped. The fault is because no one standardised the direction of the connector on the printer boards. I've had no screen for a year then I noticed today looking at the diagrams the plug had rotated between them, which I had missed and had gone undocumented.
Try using a 10mm one. Also need to know what material you are working with and printer setup. Some materials like ABS/ASA/Nylon will also require an enclosure.
I need to give this a try, i have not been able to print directly from orca slicer for a while now because the file just plain refuses to send. I dont have my printer in lan only mode though. Another complaint I have with orca slicer right now is that generic pla in the ams or on the side roll, will show up as support pla in the slicer no matter what I do or how many times I try to change it back to generic. I am also running x1plus so I wonder if there are some issues with that and orca slicer because I have only seen a few people complain about the last issue.
Considering the significant cost of handling returns and refunds, and the damage it does to their reputations, I'm a surprised the giant retailers like Amazon & Ebay haven't done more to address this growing problem of 3rd parties using their websites to sell fake and/or mislabeled parts. Like nearly all modern megacorporations, I'm sure they'll continue to take the idiotic approach of ignoring problems until they negatively impact the bottom line.
After I took out the screws/grommet, the glass is still stuck to the hinges. I tried to pry on it lightly but still wouldn't come off. Tips on removing the glass from the hinges?
We haven't noticed any change in sound one way or the other with the new panels. Its 4ft from me on my desk. The biggest thing with noise that helped was the feet for the Bambu printers we carry. They're an upgraded design from what Bambu offers.
Thanks for the instructions! I am new in the 3d printing and this helps me to move from strange interfaces to the more human usable community solutions. Thanks a lot!
Can you tell me, i have a Artillery SW x1 that doesnt show the heat sensor moving up... can it be fixed? i heat the bed and the sensor keeps showing room temp. same with the hotend, till it trows the error msg.
I watched Nathan’s video and then yours and what I don’t understand is the focus on the carbon fiber filament before printing and not after. Your brief after focus on a part that had been milled. It seems like the real issue is does CF filament shed carbon fibers when handling printed parts. Neither of the two of you have really addressed it. Am I missing something?
We found there was no shedding that we could see printed or not. Could just be the filaments we tested. IMO its nothing to worry about either way. Even talking to people who actually make filament and handle the raw materials also state that its nothing to worry about.
Sometimes ago a heard that they desolater old chips from old boards - and refurb them by the same actions you describe as fake chip …. Doesn’t make it new - but maybe not fake but used /old /2nd hand.
But we have no idea what it actually is. Not keeping these for $8/chip. I can get them for 11 each for real ones from mouser and just ordered today. They shouldnt remark them and they are very likely used. China is reselling our waste from years ago like this.
Ok, a couple things. I have my Ender 3 in a room that when I start printing, I leave the room and don’t go back in there until it’s done (or until it really messes up). The reason I do that is because I had an enclosure for a short period but it was really messing up my prints. So my question is, do you have to adjust the temps of the nozzle and/or the bed temp if you’re putting it in an enclosure?
Geez im about to get this monitor because im having a hard time pressing the button from lcd2004a.. do i need to install anything when i put this on the a8 v1.5 board????
So what functional improvements are made available besides blasting crealitys cloud based interface? Does this change the on printer interface? Only reason I am looking to do any mods to this printer is the simple fact that if I attempt to print a gcode and leave the USB stick in the print crashes with error code 2194 every time, if I pull the USB stick after it copies to internal works just fine
I just got the Adventurer 5M pro and have been having difficulty with the z-axis settings. When the machine calibrates, the print plate keeps trying to lower beyond the limits of the a-minimum. Any suggestions?
Yeah if you include all countries that have a 100/month income… NAME 1. Not a single “hobby” that can be engaged for $250/year you participate in monthly exists. Even Netflix or RU-vid premium alone are eclipsing that. I call TOTAL BS. The gentleman featured in the video knows it in his bones and was about it articulate it shortly you just cut him off.
Would you please send me a picture or an email how I should connect the wires from my S866 lcd display to my motor controller and throttle....?? Please please HÉLP mé with this because I can't find it on the internet how I should connect the 7 wires to the controller. Greetings Frank Grinwis from the Netherlands
I've a 4.2.2 board and it's seriously loud, opened it up and it has a 'T8' sticker on the SC card. Already have a 4.2.7 board ordered so might just swap it out and see if there's a noticeable sound difference before looking at swapping out the fans too. I'd like to print while working in the same room which I can't currently do
hope u can help me this ... when i home , the extruder doesnt do double tap on the limit switch on both X and Y . and it make grinding noise and lose few skip before going to center to home Z with probe ..... whats the problem exactly ? i cant fix it (my printer is Custom Core XY with skr 1.4 turbo TMC2208 )
Is there a replacement for the now overpowered power supply? I'm trying to get rid of the screaming loud fan with the stock power supply. In my understanding I'd get away with a much smaller power supply that now only has to support the board, the nozzle and the stepper motors, right?
If the bed is running off AC power you can drop down to a 150W PSU for the main printer. You'd have to make an adapter bracket/plate for that though. If you're running the stock bed still then you want to keep the stock PSU.
