That is the quietest stage 3 I have ever heard I had a predator 212 hemi still had the governor just moved the spring to a different hole it only turned 5000 rpms billet flywheel stock rod and piston stock carb just bigger jet filter and adapter exhaust and a cheap 60 dollar torque converter and I was hitting 53 and he is claiming that he has a stage 3 listen to what he is say at the end of the video he doesn't know what he is doing turbo and nitrous I kinda feel sorry for him
Pretty much only mess with Tillotson anymore getting some refreshing on predator as my buddy can't afford to much after not working on 1 for a few years it's amazing how much I've forgot new sub
This is stage 1 with a delete and too many lb springs for this build tbh so be careful not to throw a rod, My buddy has the same build just upgraded the springs to 18 with the stage 1 but he hits 65.. I have a Rt100 with Nibbi Carb, 18 lb valve springs and stage 1 and hits 65 but I am installing the stage 2 this weekend and should hit 75
High lift camshaft is stage three. Along with 20lbs valve springs, jetted carb, intake adapter and filter, racing pipe, Doing lifters and rods is part of stage 4. Billet Flywheel and connecting rod is stage 3. Mikuni carb and a new head is stage 4
Anytime you go above 6krpm you need a billet rod and flywheel, you dont want a granade between your legs or right next to you... but no stage 2 7krpm "13 hp"is a cheater "stock lift" cam, billet rod and flywheel, 18lb valve springs. Stage 3 8000 rpm "16 hp" is any cam with more than 111 lsa and .300 lift, flat top piston, 26 lb valve springs with aftermarket valves with "real" keepers and some head work, .009 metal head gasket and a 26mm carb ( you can use 1.3 ratio rockers and shortened push rods to get a mod 2 .231 lift cam to .297 lift)... stage 4 is a .350 lift cam ,billet side cover and 32/28 head with more head work, a 28mm carb and 32+lb dual valve springs
@@againsthell1908 lmfao that's not stage 3... High lift camshaft is stage three. Along with 20lbs valve springs, jetted carb, intake adapter and filter, racing pipe, Doing lifters and rods is part of stage 4. Billet Flywheel and connecting rod is stage 3. Mikuni carb and a new head is stage 4
I have a stage 4 predator.. which contains: Billet flywheel, billet connecting rod, hot 265 cam, 22lb Vale springs, 24mm Mikuni carb... my flywheel is 32 degrees advance.. ring of fire plug..it's might be a stage 3..only lacking, flat piston, thinner head gasket and stainless steel vales..
Asphalt: make your own thinner head gasket like I did as a Kid racing his bike - cut one from a sheet of copper available from most hobby or arts & crafts stores,use the old gasket as a template, believe me it works.get some copper, it has to be copper of about .010" or 10 ten thou & under.Now your running with the top Fueler rail dragsters.Trev New Zealand
Yea not stage 4 unless you have the 308 cam i have everything you have but a huge ported head .... Im getting ready do 308 26lbs springs i should hit 65mph in a 2 seater yerf dog ...
@@kylejasper3987 what's a "308" Cam ? Lift ? or Duration if it's Duration you'd better be running a loose converter or you'll wait forever for the power to kick in, if it's lift that's another story & you can hog your ports out too big & lose port Velocity & the 80% rule ,you can actually go slower if the ports have been hogged out blindly & you don't drive a flow bench...there's low lift flow/port gas speed to consider too.I don't believe in who can pee up the. Wall the highest, as they say the bs stops when the Flag drops: I've got my own low cost Chassis Dyno....a really steep hill. Cheers .Trev NZ🇳🇿
Asphalt: you don't really need the Stainless valves for a 265 Camshaft it isn't a power adder unless their waisted stem or you work on them: generally no power gains just cause you've got them: just bragging rights & swap out that dished piston for aftermarket but half your combustion chamber is in the piston crown....nothing wrong with dished stock piston clearanced properly, the power maker is the thin copper head gasket: I'll be making them if demand is there - hand cut .Cheers Trev New Zealand 🇳🇿
PS Compression is the FREE torque, HP & gas mileage maker.The OEM comp is around 8.5:1 so with an alloy head you should be able to safely go to 10:1 comp ratio on high test or VP gas....that's the HP maker & if your worried about your stock piston go to aftermarket or the minidragster crowd.Goodluck PS send me a paper tracing of your Head gasket & I can cut you one.Trev🇳🇿
Damn thats slow slow acceleration to and top speed was very slow you have a stage one stage 2 and 3 has built internals i have same as you and im hitting 70mph no bullshit run a 17 tooth in front and stock in rear you'll get 60 to 70 depending on your weight and tire size
Lmao at that ratio you're going to go through clutches more than you do tires. And your tire (drive wheel) is part of your gear ratio. The wheel size changes your gear ratio significantly
Nice bike I built a ct200 up with a tillotson 225r with a 68 be smog pump and a 8 sec nos shot does 90 might go a little faster but I'm not going to try it tell I can score a bt200x
High lift camshaft is stage three. Along with 20lbs valve springs, jetted carb, intake adapter and filter, racing pipe, Doing lifters and rods is part of stage 4. Billet Flywheel and connecting rod is stage 3. Mikuni carb and a new head is stage 4
@@JLUX100 Your TELLING me my Vocation ....lifter buckets should be changed with every new or reground Cam what are you an X-spurt ....a drip under pressure Trev NZ 🤔🇳🇿
Might want to look into a Juggernaut torque converter. I'm running stage 2 on a kart with 18" tires and I can get close to 60. I'm geared pretty low too (6:1).
I'm running a Juggernaut pully on my torque converter. That thing is the truth. The smooth acceleration and torque vs a stock pully is great. Plus it doesn't eat belts.
I was just looking into those last night. I might rock one on my next build. I made a custom mini bike from some spare tube I had in the garage and some old bike parts. Shes a little janky but its fun to ride, the next one I want to go more legit and get a tube bender and better parts. I went super cheap for this build. Managed to get up to 37 mph at 4500-5000 rpm and it felt pretty good but you can tell it looses torque after 5k
@@koreywilliams4570 "Looses torque after 5,000rpm" - NO kidding ! Whit all due respect don't you netgoers know anything ? it's supposed to do that,more-so if it's stock engine.Cheers Trev New Zealand
@@koreywilliams4570 Get your Camshaft reground to one with a Bout 260'-270' & 108' LCA lobe centre angle or get a stock regrind from a 250cc mx'er 4 stroke , then she'll fly & idle with a bit of a Lope too.Dont forget to reface the cam followers to, if you going to rev the Trey's out of a predator best use an alloy Conrod.Build your engine once,do it right, I don't mind giving free advice.Goodluck.Im an Engine builder since 11 yrs old.Trev New Zealand
I agree with the torque converter - 6:1 was the std gearing you started off with for Karts & minibikes with 4"-5" Hubs.18" wheels your geared too tall.Trev New Zealand (south pacific)
