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That's why I made this video. I think you didn't watch the whole video. The output is taken directly from the subwoofer PRE out, like the 4558 IC. I connected that output to an external amplifier for the subwoofer.
You would do better and with less effort to modify a laser printer to print the track design directly to the PCB. Over complicity does not make a project better just more complicated. Regards MoK (Been there and done it already.)
Thank you for your feedback and suggestion, MoK! You make a valid point about the potential simplicity of using a laser printer directly on PCBs. While our DIY toner transfer machine may seem complex, it's designed to cater to users who may not have access to or prefer not to modify a laser printer. The goal of our video was to provide an alternative method that can be easily replicated at home using common tools. However, your suggestion is definitely worth exploring for those interested in a more streamlined approach. We appreciate your input and will keep it in mind for future projects. Regards!
Great idea, but maybe a couple of optical sensors could be used to register the edge of the board at each end of the travel and let the microcontroller know when to reverse the movement. That would make unnecessary to measure the time of travel of the board and enter the value in an SD card every time.
Unfortunatelly optical sensors are not the best choice. The most common available that are interruption of the ligth or by reflection are problematic to use. The dimensions of the one ones by reflection makes the use impraticable. The IR LED and phototransistor are mounted stacked in a plastic case, with a gap between them. To detect the PCB the gap must be stay horizontally and even on the tiny optical sensors, whe the case is placed in the part of the laminator where the PCI will pass, the gap stays above the surface of the PCB. Please remember that low sized PCIs will not project outside the machine. For the reflection sensors, the problem is to get the measurements of the reflected light for PCIs that have different quantities of ink/coper. By this way, the simpliest way is to use limiting switches. Anyway, it would be necessary make adjustave lenght supports to hold the sensors or switches.
congratulations, great project, I already have a project similar to this, I use the Menno 2401 laminator, it's good and I don't need to make any height adjustments to pass the PCB boards up to 2mm thick, single or double sided board, I use 180g photographic paper square meters, and printed on a laser printer, the plates are perfect
For an Arduino, you can set it up to use the internal 8MHz clock. Configure your Arduino to utilize the internal 8MHz clock, and remember to adjust any timing-sensitive parts of your code accordingly, as the clock frequency has changed. If your arduino originally had a 16MHz external crystal, this alteration might impact the timing of your program.
hello sir....I have this error, can you please help me resolve it .......avrdude: Yikes! Invalid device signature. Double check connections and try again, or use -F to override this check. Failed chip erase: uploading error: exit status 1
Some laminator models feature adjustable roller height. By adjusting the roller height, you can reduce the pressure on the PCB. When the PCB crosses the roller, adjusting the roller height can help protect your PCB without any issues.
@@Circuitoptimize23 thanks for fast reply Can you suggest any model? Can i modify cheap lamination machine for this purpose? My budget is low I don't want automatic function But i want print transfer accuracy
In my opinion, a low-cost laminator machine is not suitable for toner transfer. However, if you have a limited budget, go ahead and buy a low-cost laminator to test the results. But be aware, it's at your own risk. In my suggestion, the laminator is the same as the one I showed in my video. After publishing this video, some viewers asked me to build the same setup. I built four of them, all using this same model. I am satisfied with this model because it has proven to provide better toner transfer results.
@@Circuitoptimize23 I don't have budget to take any risk When i make this Then i will go with same type of machine Thanks to you sir for proper guidance 🙏
Your descriptions were excellent. I understand much more than before. Plus I now have "refreshed" and newly burned microcontrollers. You definitely have a new subscriber.
Sir am design digital DC Volt metre using UNO board, working is fine. But using only ATmega ic + 16MHz crystal, working is not fine LCD reading is very fluctuate. Program is same. Any solution sir ?
Fluctuations in the LCD reading could be due to issues with the power supply or noise affecting the analog components. Ensure a stable power source for the ATmega IC, check the connections, and consider adding decoupling capacitors near the power pins. Additionally, grounding and shielding can help reduce noise. Double-check the wiring and try isolating potential sources of interference.
To extend the relay activation time and adjust the delay, simply modify the capacitor without altering any resistors. A higher capacitance value will prolong the on-time delay, while a lower capacitance value will result in a faster relay activation.
Hello, thanks for the working circuit. Here, the bulb on's after a set time.. how to change of off after set time.. meaning.. when power on, bulb to on, then after time period set..it should off. Thanks
Check Connections: Ensure all connections between the programmer and AVR microcontroller are secure and correct. Clock Settings: Match the clock settings in your programming software with the microcontroller's actual clock frequency. Device Selection: Select the correct microcontroller model in your programming software. If the issue persists, consider trying a different set of hardware components or using the -F flag with AVRDUDE to override the check.Please try these steps and check if they resolve the issue. If you continue to face problems, kindly provide more details about your setup. Alternatively, you can join my WhatsApp, and I will guide you through the troubleshooting process.
What is the temperature range you are working on, because mine doesn't work, I have tried to do this exact thing before. Overall, it is a genuinely nice project to work with. Keep up the excellent work.
I'm happy to hear that! The ideal temperature for perfect toner transfer ranges from a minimum of 160 to a maximum of 170 degrees. However, the challenge arises with different brands of lamination machines. They use varying capacitor values for the Triac in the temperature control section and different types of Potentiometers. If you have the same machine as shown in my video , simply set the temperature as I mentioned. But if you have a different brand of lamination machine, you must first inspect the capacitor and the Potentiometer. Usually, the capacitors are the same, but the Potentiometers differ.
hello sir can you make standalone programmer for arduino without PC, maybe the arduino using SDcard for save the hex file then just like click the push button and it going flash the atmega8
Creating a standalone programmer for Arduino without a PC is indeed possible. You can use an Arduino board to achieve this, along with an SD card module and a simple user interface, such as buttons and a display. However, implementing this would require a good understanding of Arduino programming, knowledge of the AVR programming protocol, and careful hardware connections to ensure proper functioning.
It looks like you're encountering an error while trying to burn a program onto an ATmega328P microcontroller. The error message 'expected signature for at mega 328p is 1e 95 0f' usually indicates a mismatch between the target microcontroller and the one selected in your programming environment. To resolve this, please double-check the following Ensure, you've selected the correct microcontroller model (ATmega328P) in your programming software. Verify your connections between the programmer and the microcontroller, making sure they are secure and correctly wired. Confirm that you have the appropriate bootloader and firmware for your specific ATmega328P chip version.
I can give you a tip to make to rechargeable and add a fuse. You can make video on this. Good work keep it up 😊. And please do a giveaway for your viewers for poor hobbyists like me 😢
😂 No, buddy. If you apply a 12-0-12 5-amp transformer to this circuit, it won't function properly. This circuit uses power transistors and requires at least a 24-0-24 10-amp transformer for better performance. So, if you only have a 12-0-12 5-amp transformer available, you can simply build an amplifier based on the TDA2030 or TDA7294.
Yes, it's suitable for a Kenwood 200-watt Subwoofer. However, please keep in mind that driving a 200-watt Kenwood subwoofer with this amplifier will require a high current, which can put a strain on the amplifier. The issue with this type of transistor amplifier is that it can't handle high currents well, leading to overheating and a faster deterioration of the driver. If you are using a 200-watt Kenwood subwoofer, I highly recommend using a MOSFET-based amplifier driver. It's a perfect match for your needs, as it can handle the power requirements more efficiently and is less prone to overheating issues. Regarding the noise produced by this amplifier driver, it does generate a small amount of noise, but it's generally not loud enough to be a significant concern.
The Arduino IDE displays anavrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding error message indicating its inability to establish communication with the ATmega328PU chip. To address this issue, you can consider a few potential solutions. First, updating the Arduino IDE software might prove helpful. Additionally, installing the latest drivers for your USB port could resolve the problem. Ensuring that the ATmega328PU chip is in reset mode before attempting to burn the bootloader is essential; this can be achieved by grounding the reset pin on the chip. For Mac users, trying the deactivation of the "USB Debugging" option in the Arduino IDE preferences might be worth considering.
Arduino: 1.8.15 (Windows 10), Board: "Arduino Uno" Error while burning bootloader. avrdude: Yikes! Invalid device signature. Double check connections and try again, or use -F to override this check.
Sorry for the late reply.. So if you're issue is related on (Invalid device signature) so this the common problem. Invalid device signature error indicates that the signature read from the microcontroller does not match what is expected for the selected microcontroller. Make sure Ensure that the clock frequency settings in the Arduino IDE match the clock configuration of your microcontroller. The ATmega328P can be operated at different clock frequencies, and this needs to be correctly set in your code. And select the correct microcontroller model in the Arduino IDE or programming software. For an ATmega328PU, you should select "ATmega328P" as the board. If you've double-checked all of these aspects and are still encountering the error, you might want to try using the -F flag as suggested in the error message to override the device signature check. However, be cautious with this approach as it might lead to programming the microcontroller with incorrect settings.
