Great video how does it look after it settled out a couple of months later? do you wish you did a 1.5" leveling kit not sure if you toe much? thanks for all the info
Just finished the rear set. Thanks for the great video. Took me about 1hr per rotor because I'm a newbie but worth the $500 I saved from labor at the shop
I see you put the tire underneath the truck my dad told me that when I was like 10 years old just in case the Jack slid off it would probably save your life if you were under it has it ever slipped off on you in the tire save you
Very informative video! But yes, you should crack the bleeder screw before compressing the caliper pistons. Also, that hat is freakin filthy man, looks like you got a big brown shit stain right there in the middle of it. Some Tide might help clean that right up, and make that hat nice and Red again! That beautiful bird on the bat always seems to turn nasty blue when it gets dirty, and a big shit stain in the shape of a C always seems to appear.
You're supposed to open the bleeder when compressing those brake calipers you can destroy your anti-lock brake system if you don't do it. You don't want to be pushing back on the anti-lock brake system also sending in dirty fluid back into the system
BEST WAY: It took me 1 hour to do both sides. Don’t take off the tires you don’t need to. Jack up the truck on the frame. Get the wheel off the ground. Pull the two lower bolts under the strut. Undo the sway bar link. The tire and will drop. Put the spacer in. Get a pry bar and put a strap around the strut now put the pry bar in the strap and pull the strut in line and put the bolts in. “DO NOT” put the bolts in from the top side because you don’t need to. Put the bolts in from the bottom up and put the nut on the top. Tighten the two strut bolts and use a bottle jack to raise the A-arm and get the sway bar link back in place.
Excellent, comprehensive, and thorough video! Thank you kindly. I have done brake changes before, but it's been awhile. I am getting ready to change the brakes on my 2013 F150 and feel very confident in doing so having watched this video and been refreshed on the process and how to do it RIGHT. You have helped someone today who is extremely grateful. Peace and best regards to you. 🙂
Omg‼️GREAT INSTRUCTIONS ON THE COMPLETE BRAKE JOB‼️. ONE OF THE BEST YET ON INSTRUCTIONS AS WELL AS EDUCATING ‼️IF YOU PAY ATTENTION,YOU CAN DO ANYTHING ‼️. I'll be watching you more brother ‼️ 🤜THANK💥YOU🤛
Just bought a 23’ Silverado exactly like this(all black everything 😍), and I’m in heaven! Traded in a 20’ Ranger I bought in March that turned out to be too small for me. I’m not a mechanic and I’m new to owning a truck. I’m going to take my truck to have a leveling kit installed by a pro. What is a normal rate for this? I know it varies but a range would be helpful so I don’t get nailed. Great content 🔥🔥
Not trying to be a smart ass, but i do this in 10min each side by just prying the bottom of the shock with a pry bar and inserted the leveling block in place. Didnt even have to put a lot of pressure to the shock. Done plenty of trucks that way. No issues.
I don't know if it is necessary but I always take the brake fluid reservoir cap off before compression the piston. I cover it with a clean rag so no contaminates get in there. Bleeding the brakes is preferable too. I have a Mitre on man kit for the brake bleeding. The ratcheting caliper wrench is well worth the money.
Very Well done....Except...BLEED THE BRAKES !! The bleed screw is very conveniently located. First. Pushing the piston in pushes fluid against and past the seals in the master cylinder. Not good. Second, the only nasty, burnt fluid you see when you bleed the brakes is the first fluid that is stuck in the caliper piston and has hot cycled in there for years. Bleeding pushes fresh fluid in the piston. Otherwise , great job. TXS.
Yeah don't bleed the break system unless you're replacing the break calipers . Ford and GM both do not recommend bleeding for a simple pad and rotor replacement.
Just finished an install. I could not get upper ball joint separated. I just removed the CV axle from the differential and removed the steering knuckle. This gave me enough room to do the install. Took about 20 m inutes on passenger side. The drivers side took much longer because I could not get the upper ball joint separated. Just thought I would share in case anyone has same issue. Truck looks perfect with 2 inch front lift.
