TecTube is the exclusive channel for Temperature Equipment Corporation (TEC) and National Excelsior Company (NEC) focusing on educational content to benefit HVAC technicians, engineers, comfort advisers, and anyone part of the complex and ever evolving HVAC industry. Our feature videos are intended to be short segments of content to supplement our longer duration webinars, traditional classroom, and lab style training options.
TEC is a wholesale HVAC distribution company headquartered in Lansing, IL and servicing Illinois, Indiana, Wisconsin, Minnesota, Michigan, Missouri, and Kansas. We are a one-stop-shop for all HVAC needs from residential to commercial/industrial including equipment, controls, parts and supplies. TEC is your high efficiency expert, with the lowest energy consumption equipment in the industry…. condensing units, furnaces, RTUs, chillers, VRF, ERVs, and more. We also do business as National Excelsior Company in some locations.
I see the 18kbtu milti21 has a total lineset length of 65’ according to the install manual. To confirm, we would be adding linesets for both zones to get total length. Are there circumstances where this can be exceeded? Other manufacturers have a derate factor when length thresholds are exceeded.
If you have a Day & Night system with an older Comfortmaker communicating control system, can you replace that with Ion? In other words, you remove the zone control board and existing thermostats and replace them with Ion equivalents. Will that be able to talk to the existing furnace and outdoor unit?
Yes. Ion controllers and zone boards are compatible with older ICP communicating equipment such as furnaces and condensing units that used to have Observer controls connected to them. With that said, you can't mix the zone controls (i.e., have an Observer zone board with an Ion wall control, etc)
@@TECTubefilms Thanks for replying. I have a ZONE0101ZP6 zone board and some TSTAT0201CWs that just won't talk to each other. Do you know if replacing the thermostats with TSTAT0101SCs would work? The zone board manual mentions those, but not the '0201s. Had 3 separate techs out and they couldn't make it work.
Is there any continuity plan with this system, supposedly if the machine breaks down that mean all indoor machines go down with it unlike independent units... My question is, can we have an standby unit along with main unit?
You can have multiple outdoor units connected together on the same refrigeration network. So if one outdoor unit had a failed inverter or damaged circuit board, for example, the other unit could still be operating. Not sure if that was your question or not.
The CFM info is still located in the product data literature and installation manual just like it used to be for 4 and 5 speed furnaces (and variable speed). It works exactly the same way... look at your static and your chosen fan speed to determine the CFM... but now there are 18 rows in the tables instead of 5 rows.
Mines keeps turning off after I program to the settings u recommend. I was in the shower started out hot water then 2 minutes later turns cold what’s wrong with my heating system?
Sir, thank you for this great video. One question. Can add-a-wire kit be used for replacing R (power wire) or it can be used only for common, cooling and fan only?
It can be used on any pair of signal terminals (Y1, Y2, W1, W2, G) which means it cannot be wired to R or to C. But once you combine two signal terminals on one wire in your wall (say G and Y), it then frees up a dedicated wire that can be used for either C or R.
Thank you for the video. I installed 2 add a C wire kits in our Church. They did not change anything. They are still working off batteries. Any help would greatly be appreciated.
When you say "C-wire kit" are you talking about the old Honeywell product by that specific name?Or are you referring to the Venstar Add-A-Wire kit as shown in this video? Or one of the many other similar products out there (ecobee PEK, FAST-STAT Common Maker, etc).
@@TECTubefilms We installed 2 Sensi Smart Thermostats . There was not a C wire. Sensi sold us Common Wire Maker Kits. Looks just like the one in your video. We installed them just like your video showed. They work the same after we added the C wire maker kits as they did before. They are working off the batteries so they go off line often to save the batteries. Once Sensi called me to tell me that the C wire maker kits were working. But a few hours later they stopped working. Thank you very much for replying to me.
If you guys ever make another video, instead of discussing principles, please show temperatures. I'd only buy one for its thermal (and cost) benefit: test it in each mode, relative to cost & life expectancy.
Cost benefit depends highly on total CFM and your heating and cooling fuel costs in your area. Where we are based in the Midwest, ERVs smaller than 500 CFM (i.e., residential sized units) have very long paybacks. However larger systems, such as those 1,500 CFM and larger used in most commercial buildings have very fast paybacks. Maybe take a look at our webinar from 2020 around the 19 minute mark for some examples of cost paybacks. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-gc6ZAnl6mrg.htmlsi=s9ju9nYt0IkJ1sUi
I have tech tools 8.5 im trying to upload one that’s same as in video but im getting an upload not permited message,im able to retrieve its basic data though, any ideas ?
I've got a heat pump, and I've got 8 wires coming out of the wall, that were hooked up to the existing/old Honeywell thermostat. With the ecobee premium instructions, i only see clear details on what to do with 5 of the wires... Any suggestions? I've looked & looked for a video of someone who has a heat bump, installing this ecobee premium, but have been unable to find an installation instruction video.
You need to know what the other end of each of those 8 wires connects to specifically in order to determine if ecobee can handle this situation. Ecobee has wiring diagrams for as many as 10 wires. You have your 5 traditional wires (G, Y1, W1, Rc, C) and then 2nd stage heat (W2), 2nd stage compressor (Y2), separate 24v for two transformer systems (Rh), and finally 1 or 2 wires for an accessory like a humidifier.
I've got a heat pump, and I've got 8 wires coming out of the wall, that were hooked up to the existing/old Honeywell thermostat. With the ecobee premium instructions, i only see clear details on what to do with 5 of the wires... Any suggestions? I've looked & looked for a video of someone who has a heat bump, installing this ecobee premium, but have been unable to find an installation instruction video.
You need to know what the other end of each of those 8 wires connects to specifically in order to determine if ecobee can handle this situation. Ecobee has wiring diagrams for as many as 10 wires. You have your 5 traditional wires (G, Y1, W1, Rc, C) and then 2nd stage heat (W2), 2nd stage compressor (Y2), separate 24v for two transformer systems (Rh), and finally 1 or 2 wires for an accessory like a humidifier.
Do both lines need to be insulated? Also, is the evap coil just a standard 3 ton heat pump coil with an external biflow filter drier added. Sales rep said that the defrost would be so quick in our area that a duel fuel or heatstip wouldn't be necessary.
No, both lines do not get insulated because a GREE FLEXX heat pump is like other standard ducted heat pump systems. There are, however, some mini-split manufactures that put the expansion device for cooling mode in the outdoor unit and hence both lines of those types of products do get insulated.
Not sure where you are located but maybe if you are in South Florida or something like that, then you don't need auxiliary heat. We are in the Midwest so we can't comment much about that topic.
This is the best demonstration I have seen to explain the ERV function. I was surprised at how well the ERV was able to transfer temperature in the demo. I wonder if you could generate some steam at the outside air input and also see how well the humidity would be transferred using RH gauges in each chamber as well as thermometers. Also, it would be interesting to compare the efficiency difference from the rotating membrane compared to the usual home module.
There is plenty of data to illustrate the efficiency different between an enthalpy wheel and fixed plates. Put wheels are only for commercial projects. No one makes a wheel small enough for residential.
This guy's videos would be way better if he would change the angle of his lighting so that he doesn't have the glare off his gauges beaming straight into his viewers' eyes. What a lack of foresight over a simple but important thing. Makes me question other things.
We have had great success with V coils since we used them during the pre-production phase and then again when they officially hit the market. We have literally used thousands in our market. We have witnessed improved airflow and lower warranty claims. At the risk of opening Pandora's Box, what bad experience did you have?
@@TECTubefilms drain pans are too narrow and easily plug up unlike a conventional “A” coil pan. Air flow good but very little difference between “A” and “V”coils. For the potential clogged pan and plugged micro channels I much rather have an “A” coil.
These coils ice up when previous systems did not. Like for like capacity and the low side is far too low for 410a. Temperature drops are way too high. Multiple examples of exactly what I have stated from multiple contractors.
Not sure what is going on in your part of the country, but we have had very good feedback in the Midwest (Chicago, Minneapolis, etc). We have a lotless problem jobs as compared to N coils which have always seemed to exaggerate airflow issues when the furnace is oversized for the duct (which is most projects). The biggest complaint that we get is that these coils are not AHRI rated with inverter heat pumps yet.
ecobee only supports one misc accessory at a time so you can either have a dehumidifer, a vent damper, a humidifier, or a dehum sequence of an air handler, but not two of those directly wired to ecobee on the same system.
@@vijayrana9090 That is a Honeywell product that only works with Honeywell stats. It is used to have a wireless stat communicate to an EIM and then that EIM is hardwired to the equipment.
@@TECTubefilms got it. I am already bypassing the eim so as to use ecobee. My main issue is to connect dehum and vent as accessories. Now I know that I can only ise one at a time. How about using aprilaire 100 dehum? I think it does not need vent to be wired to the thermostat. Any thoughts/suggeations?
•How would you address duct sizing when adding a dehumidifier to a suuply plenum, per Santa Fe’s install manual. This method creates high static when the unit and dehumidifier are running.
We have never heard of Sante Fe but in either case, we have also never added a dehumidifier to a supply duct. It is not needed in our Midwest climate if A/C is sized and staged properly. If the project is South of ASHRAE's warm-humid line on the map, then things are probably pretty different.
I saw a recent video suggesting the condenser valve torque specs were wrong and his service calls on the Flexx units were leaking with the too low torque specs. Any leaking at the valve?
We are not exactly sure what you are referring to, but the torque specs in the instructions for the flare nuts are in N-m and most people use a torque wrench measuring in ft-lb. Maybe the person you are talking about didn't realize this difference in units when they set their wrench. In this example, it would cause overtightening.
Hello, I hope this comment finds you well. I want to know if with a Modbust RTU to Modbus TCP/IP device I can access the control board and read the parameters
Good stuff. I think my unit was set up correctly by the HVAC installer but the outside temperature display is consistently wrong. It does not go above 66 degrees F, for example. Is this something that can be fixed, or is it necessary? If it's just information and not affecting the AC operation, I am okay with the incorrect display.
It does matter and not just for display purposes. What is the actual temp you are measuring... at the exact same location of this sensor... when the stat says 66F? The sensor is just a 10k Type II thermistor so it can be troubleshot with an electrical meter. That will allow you to determine if the sensor is an issue, the board it is wired to, or the stat.
@@TECTubefilms Thanks very much for your reply. The temperature difference is about 20 to 30 degrees on the display versus the outside. I am not sure of the location of the sensor but since you answered my main question -- the value of the reading does matter to the operation of the unit -- I will get a technician to track this down on my Tempstar variable speed system.
@@maxliker The sensor is a little probe sticking out the bottom of the electrical section. It is black and covered in an epoxy. If it is reading high during the daytime only, it is likely that the sun is directly shinning on that section of the unit and heating it. If is wrong all the time, then something is broke (sensor, outdoor board, or stat). If it is wrong randomly, then the issue might be the wire or wire termination.
Using a portable aircon... ... I can draw in fresh (even with secondhand smoke) by the huge inward pressure which will be sucked in to cool down the condenser, dirty fresh air directed to the aircon by DIY pipe... .. while part of the sucked in air will be pulled into a IKEA Fornuftiq... ... position at the top of the portable aircon (since ash and secondhand smoke are usually 'heavier' air portion unlikely to escape the air stream inertia) to be blown through the aluminium filters and be blown cold air into the room... ... then the additional air sucked in by both Fornuftig and portable aircon will be forced out of the room by the gaps... ... Don't even need a fan... ... All we need is a gap at the other end of the room... ... Hmmm... ... The aircon will dehumidify the room as well. So I can finally use wood funiture. Now the set up shows a humidity of 59% very close to Scanteak showroom's 50% and temperature at 27.7degrees, which will need some work. Mean I have to redesign the setup... ... Hee hee hee... ... ... Before this, it is always above 71 to 75% and reaching 83% humidity. No way I can see a 50++% humidity. Good... ... ... I must do the upgrade to the room. A portable aircon is a bliss... .... It can be used to play fresh air ventilation unit which normal cost tens of thousands. But a portable aircon is only S$699... ... getting Fornufitig and a strong fan is still below S$1000. Good. Hee hee hee hee hee... ... Let's redo a little and boost up the coldness, and it will be perfect. Hahahahahahahahahahahahahaha... ... Hahahahahahahahahahahahahaha... ... Kinda cheap.
Everything on this website is also on the app EXCEPT these reports. View large data graphs on a small mobile screen doesn't make a lot of sense to either ecobee or us. We much prefer it on a laptop or larger screen.
