I have similar problem but it’s opposite of your problem. Mine blows cold air in the rear and hot air from the front. It’s a 2000 GMC Yukon. Any idea what the problem might be? Do you think it’s the same problem as yours?
I have similar problem but it’s opposite of your problem. Mine blows cold air in the rear and hot air from the front. It’s a 2000 GMC Yukon. Any idea what the problem might be? Do you think it’s the same problem as yours?
Needed help. Got this clicking sound. Checked my actuators. Everything cooln heats front and rear. The clicking sound is coming from above the cabin filter housing. There's some part above i see n feel moving but dont what ut is cuz i probably have to take the dashboard out. Do u have a clue?? The clicking sound goes away when the recirc button is on. When its off or on defrost, it starts clicking
Pretty sure I need this filter. I'm just not sure how to get to it... I've taken apart the inside of the car, but can not figure out how to remove blower assembly. I removed the bolt at the top, what else is holding it on?
Find a video how to change an actuator the video will fix your problem it did for me cause I will be getting cold in one side and hot on the other side hope it will help
Great Video I have a question i have a 2011 Chevy Traverse I've Had Ac problems after problems .Now when i turn on the Rear Ac from the main panel the Ac light blinks and the ac will cut off until i turn off the rear ac any recommendations
Just got it back from the dealer. No problem found. Usually we set the thermostats around 70 lately and the rear seemed warm. After getting it back from the dealer i used the Temp Gun and this time set the AC to 60 MAX temp. The front vents were very cold around 40. However, the rear top vents were around 55F. Just wanted to compare notes with everyone else.
The component you diagnosed as restricted is a filter. Not an Orfice tube. The Expansion valve does the job of dropping pressures. That filter is the inline catch filter for the Expansion Valve. Nice catch though.
Catch filter. What does it catch? Where do the particles come from? Is this deuteriation of the compressor? Can we keep this from happening in the first place?
That was gonna be my question as well and looking it up in the parts catalog they have one for the front but not the rear as shown in this video. Are they the same filter that can be used front or back?
Having trouble locating the exapansion valve on my 2013 Chevrolet Traverse anyone have an idea description of where this might be? When you said behind the bumper, did you mean rear or front?
You dont have to take off all the inside panel, just go below rear passenger tire, take the fender liner, take 1 13mm nut out off the ac lines, then pull the high preassure line, the problem is to find this part
My 2009 Acadia blew hot air on the left and cold on the right. Replaced an actuator and now it blows cold on the left and hot on the right. 😑 replaced another actuator and nothing changed. Someone said to disconnect my Battery and reconnect to calibrate actuators. My ac also hisses and the left vent that blows cold air blows warm air while idling or in park. Colder air with more rpms it seems. But the passenger and rear always get warm air. This is so frustrating. Any tips on what the fix is?
You've probably resolved your problem already, but in case you haven't, check out this video and see if his solution works. It's essentially a way to reset the actuator(s) when they become stuck. It's free, easy, and quick. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-sa_Rr4vaxQY.html Hope it helps!
Tim Hall I haven’t resolved the problem yet unfortunately. Just the other day the left side stopped blowing cold air but that was after I replaced the fuse just in case it was a simple fix. Didn’t work. I’ll watch this video link you provided and hope it helps! It’s getting hot out there
Find a video how to change an actuator the video will fix your problem it did for me cause I will be getting cold in one side and hot on the other side hope it will help
Hi I have a 2010 Acadia and I'm going crazy looking for a second Extension valve my AC goes cool to hot if you could help me with this problem I will A preciate it thank you so much.
Thanks for the video , very educative , i do however have a question since it does involve acadia ac but its not related to rear blower my ac light flashes 3 times and stays off and it wont turn on, the blower blows warm air even thought screen says 60 ac never turns on i read online that refiling the freon can fix this but person at autozone told me that ac has to be running to refill the freon so what if any of this is true and what can i do to fix it its starting to get warm outside and ac is needed thank you in advance
Just refill it. You can usually fill the freon a little bit without the compressor running, enough to get the low pressure sensor to turn off which will start the compressor. Once the compressor starts you can fill the freon all the way.
@@risktekk Did it work for you? what did you do with the relays? Should I replace them or just take them out for a specific in order to reset and then put then back ?
My ac works on driver side front but passenger side front and rear vent blow warm air to replace the expansion valve and orifice tube do i have to get my ac Freon evacuated from my system
I am having the exact same issue as you described. By any chance were you able to figure this problem out? I know its been a year since you posted this so i have my fingers crossed.
@@ryansnyder2608 My experience with hot on one side and cold on the other turned out to be the actuators. I have a 2011 Traverse and there are a total of 4. I only needed to replace just one, which was located behind the glove box. Hopefully this helps. Good luck.
Find a video how to change an actuator the video will fix your problem it did for me cause I will be getting cold in one side and hot on the other side hope it will help and fix your problem
Thank you so very much. Your instructions were easy and I did this all by myself in about 30 minutes! Girl Power!!!! Didn't even mess up my nails. Thanks again.
I've located the actual expansion valve but I cannot get to it with the muffler in the way. how do you get around this? does the bumper have to come off?
@@MoneyManHolmes yes the expansion valve has moving parts. If you are tearing it apart, might as well replace the expansion valve. It is an actuating valve and no you cannot clean them. The valve is considered a disposable item. The valves are cheap, like $20 cheap on Amazon.
Need help with 2012 Acacia Denali. Its blowing all hot air and once in awhile i smell burnt crayon smell. We've pressure tested and put freon in twice. We checked all 3 front actuators and they seem to work fine. What should we check next??? Don't have money to pay someone along with buying part.
Linda Heimbaugh clean or replace the filter in the tube, I had the same problem, gm dealer wanted way to much to fix ,it took me three hours to fix and now it's blowing 38 degrees down the road.
Matthew is right. I was fed up after a year of poor AC performance so I bet on this video and it paid off. My in-line filter was probably 60% restricted and it was affecting both front and rear climate zones. If you’re also losing refrigerant, check under the hood where the rubber hoses crimp onto the metal tubes. Mine had a small leak behind the passenger headlight area which I fixed at the same time. Do it all at once while you have the system opened up.
i am having the same issue with my 08 buick enclave..my question is how do you remove the expansion valve? and as for the cleaning process what kind of air gun would i need? links would be greatly appreciated. and a step-by-step on the cleaning process.
To remove the expansion valve you need to remove the nut or bolt that holds it in place and carefully pry it out. You can use any air gun that can be tightly attached to the tube to remove the gunk inside. First spray the tube with a cleaner. We used brake cleaner. anything that dries up will be fine. I do not recommend using WD-40 since it will just lubricate. You need something strong enough to break it apart from the walls. Then use an air gun to blow it all out and on the other end have someone hold a towel or rag to catch all the debris. Repeat process until the fluid you are cleaning the tube is clean.
The front and back A/C is one system. You charge it through the port under the hood, even though they have separate evaporators, one in the front and one in the back.
Great info. I have the same issue on my 2011 crysler 2011 town and country. front ac works . rear ac blows warm air when i lower the temp. with high temp settings it blows hot air. verified that both acuators are working. does it have orifice tube? can u tell me where it is located?
Good video. Perhaps you have more advice...just replaced the compressor (was not cycling, frozen clutch). Friend (mechanic) came over to service the system. System did not seem to want to accept freon...ac on, set to 60 degrees, passenger and rear also on, engine at idle speed. Low pressure gauge was approx 30, the high pressure side was approx 190 when the comp was off, dropped to 140-ish when compressor running. He thought the high pressure was high, and didn't seem to know why the high pressure was cycling. After thinking about it later, I figured it was normal to do this with the ac comp cycling on and off (maybe I'm wrong). I also since found out that at the ambient temp we had, the high side would be 250-270 when serviced. He thought the orifice tube in the front engine bay was blocked. From what I've found out now, there is no orifice tube in the front. I actually started thinking that the evaporator behind the fire wall is causing the problem (after stoping by the GMC service department) ...that requires disassembling the entire front dash. So, question...is it possible that it was just an improper servicing procedure...maybe not enough time given (had tried for about 5 minutes), or, maybe his tank was near empty? When I replaced the compressor, the system was verified full before evacuating the system prior to replacing the comp, so I know it's not a leak issue. Or, is it possible that the rear expansion valve is badly clogged, causing a charging problem? Or, the rear orifice tube clogged and causing the charging problem; I wouldn't think so, but I'm not an expert (and, I thought there was no orifice tube in the Acadia...is there actually one in the front also that is known only to GMC mechs? And, is there an expansion valve at the firewall...if so, is it imprudent to remove and inspect it for the possibility of the tube on the opposite side pulling away from the other side of the firewall , requiring the removal of the dash to reattach?). And, when you blew the gunk out from the front engine bay high pressure line to the back ac tubing, does that not also initially go through the evaporator behind the dash? How much brake cleaning fluid did you use? I hate to think that I'm going to have to either fork over 2500 to have an evaporator replaced, or, spend an entire weekend yanking apart the dash unit (I'm beginning to think the evaporator unit is fine...maybe that's just hopeful thinking). Thanks again for the video.
@@ynotdiy6982 I'm having a similar issue as the poster above. I'm actually going out to replace my compressor today. I have a leak somewhere so I'm going to try and shade tree mechanic it. I bought a pump to post a vacuum etc.