SIDECUT focuses on creating the easiest and most efficient to use Tuning Products & Tools ensuring your skis and boards perform at their absolute best. Having the highest quality tools enables you to not only improve your skills on the tuning bench faster but more importantly on snow. Tested and designed by athletes and coaches, all of our tools are put through their paces before we sell them to the public. We believe you should buy tools once so that's how we engineer them. Our products are suitable for all beginner to expert technicians.
Warning: Learning how to tune your own skis will dramatically improve your on-snow skills which will lead to way more fun!! Ski & Ride your best! www.sidecut.com
Do you recommend pass a diamond or a cermic stone stone in the at base after finish the edges? I do one single pass to remove the burr but i have impression it become less sharp...
It's not mandatory but typically yes with your finest ceramic or diamond stone. If done correctly it's not less sharp it's just that you're not feeling the burr. You could try running one pass with the stone on you left ski and leave your rights ski alone. Test on snow and see what edge you prefer and then you'll know!
Any cordless will work but remember to scrape the wax off first with a plexi scraper before you use your roto brush. Rotos are only used after properly scraping the ski or board.
When are these available? Not seeing them online yet but stoked to try it out (along with the diamond guide - hoping to order both the guide and QRS device)
I’ve been racing Nordic and waxing my own skis for 47 years but leave tuning of my alpine skis to the shop. I want to start tuning my own alpine skis. The issue that has scared me from tuning alpine skis is edge construction, bevel,etc. is there a diagram anywhere that describes edge angle ? Also, how can ski edges take frequent sharpening without eventually wear down to nothing? Stupid questions but they have caused apprehension in tackling my own tuning. Thanks
It’s scares most actually….but I’ve yet to meet anyone who has started and say they wish they hadn’t. It’s literally transformative to one’s experience on snow. Sure you need to learn it however the learning curve is extremely fast. Contact and we can help you out. And yes tuning the edges makes them thinner however for most skiers the ski wears out long before the edge wears out.
Tuning a new pair of skis takes approximately 1.5 to 2 hours due to set up shown in the video. After that daily ski day maintenance can be done in in 15mins.
This is really helpful! I always had the problem that I got marks on the ski top and end with the sidewall remover. I just orderer the Topsheet Remover. I couldn't find it in Switzerland.
What are the key differences between this and the Toko T18? Some people are guessing the T18 is made by Star? It looks like this one has digital temp adjustment buttons while the Toko T18 has a dial. Any major circuit controller differences?
You're best to reach out to them to get the specifics of their iron. You're correct that our iron has a touch pad to adjust the temperature. We have two options 15mm or 25mm soleplate, both poured solid aluminum and CNC machined flat for the best wax application.
There's far too many variables at hand here to give you a duration in time. The 'idea' behind this tip is to 'test it our for yourself' to see if you find it helpful. As stated, the 'concept' is for those who may not be able to create the same edge angles as a World Cup skier and therefore struggling on ice or extremely hard snow surfaces.
@@sidecuttuning - Thanks for the tip! I use 3° side edge & 0.7° base edge, prob with a degree of burr as I don't use a gummi, and find the sharp compound edge is noticeably dulled after a day on icy snow. Would I be better using a lesser side edge, say like 2°, to produce a more durable compound edge?
My process is run 80 grit on the winter Steiger, the 120 lots of water, then depending on the structure or level of tune needed I run through the stone lots of water, then Edges,detune, brush base, little wax remover then dry off and wax, remove elastics strap touchpoints and peace out. 55$ Im the sole tuner in my shop and we have a 1 day turn over. No returns or bring backs. Never knew how much I'd love and feel pride tuning.
some questions just to make the video more informative: 1) With new skies usually came with some factory wax. Just use your base cleaner is enough? 2) Shoul I use the base cleaner everytime I wax? what is your recommendation on this? 3) Can use the same nilon brush for polishing? or is it necessary something softer?
1) scrape factory wax off 2) base cleaner optional but better to wax and scrape, then re-wax 3) Use brass or soft steel, followed by horsehair and fibre-tex to open the base. Yes you can use the same Nylon brush and follow with a softer Nylon if desired. This is all pertaining to Nanox wax.
Hello Would Like to sharp and maintain my base bevel to 0,75 as it is from factory like this . Do you have the tool for it I can see only 1 degré or 0,7 ? Thanks
@@sidecuttuning would it be fine for 0,75 base edge ? I think it will not reach the edge ? Or any kind of technics as the angle 0.75 is more open Thanks for your feedback
@@Steph-iw3hr To know if your base bevel is at 0.75 degrees you'd need to measure. It's very likely the 0.7 degree will work perfectly. This is what we recommend. Hope this helps. For more info email us.
Thanks for your FB! Skis come with a very average tune (out of the wrapper) typically and need to be 'set up' based on ones skill level, strength and the type of ski/skiing you're doing. We believe getting the utmost FUN and PERFORMANCE out of your skis is the goal and tuning is an easy and major contributor to achieving both of these. Give tuning a test...you may never want to ski again without proper tuning.
Can I do the step of fibertex and steel brush if, for some reason, the shop has waxed to me? if there are wax should I use a base glide cleaner instead of alcool and water? Btw, become a sidecut fan, bough the diamond stones and guides and is so high quality!
Great to hear you've become a SIDECUT fan! If there's wax on the base scrape it off, use Fibre-Tex and Brushes, then re-wax. If it's bare, remove any dirt from grinding with the spray and then brush/fibre-tex and then wax. Hope this helps.
Thanks for your FB! It really is that easy, more and more people are starting to realize this. Once you start you'll never stop because the benefits are to great vs. not doing it. All the best!
Hi there - compared to the diamond guides, I know the sidewall remover is less fool-proof. But exactly how difficult is using the tool? Am I likely to mess up my skis? Any suggestions / common mistakes to be mindful of?
Watch our 'How To Tune Your Skis' video Step #3 www.sidecut.com/advanced-ski-tuning-videos.html Then watch the 3 other tuning tips in relation to removing your sidewalls in our 'www.sidecut.com/advanced-tuning-tips-videos.html and our www.sidecut.com/new-valuable-tuning-tips.html No, it's very easy when you follow the advice in those aforementioned videos.
The first way to know is when it doesn't cut anymore. If you're diamond is clean but won't cut then replace it. Here's how to clean them: www.sidecut.com/product/SEP_15.html
@@sidecuttuning - Couldn't it be not cutting because the edge is case hardened or at a different angle to the angle set on the guide? Are there any visual indicators to look for on the diamond stone to tell you it's time to replace it?
Standard base bevel for skiers is 0.7 degrees typically and 2.0 degrees of side bevel. Snowboards are typically 1.0 or 1.5 degrees on the base edge and 1-2 degrees on the side edges (free-ride that is, not competitive riders).
But you're not going to change angle with a diamond stone right or do you with a 200 grit diamond for example (for example when speaking about rental skis with maybe a different base edge angle)?
You can change the angle on the base edge with a diamond stone. If this is your goal we recommend a 400 grit stone and finish with 600 or 1000 (if possible) but not mandatory.
Is your intro kit enough to successfully complete all the steps seen here, or does one have to pony up for a lot more kit? I’m a decent skier and want to take my skiing to the next level. I’m a lift operator at Park City, so we get pretty good deals for tunes at a great local shop, but something tells me it can’t touch the eventual knowledge of managing one’s own ski tunes. That said, it’s tough to know if investing all the money it takes to get great gear like you make would be worth it for a noob like me. Either way I appreciate all the work you put into your videos!
The "How To Tune YOUR Skis' video uses only the tools found in our INTRO Tuning Kit the first 3 steps of the video and for Step 4 we use the items found in the 'BASIC Waxing Kit'. If you had these two kit + a set of vices you have everything you need to follow the steps of this video.
Chris, i'm not seeing a 'Cut 2 File' on your website. What file is the equivalent? And is a Cut 2 File the same as a '2nd Cut' file offered by other companies? Thanks
Maroon = COURSE. 320 grit (removing micro hairs in new skis or freshly ground skis and other base repairs, structuring before and after waxing, sidewalls, topsheet detailing etc. Gray = MEDIUM 600 grit (finer version to the details mentioned with the 320 grit). White = Very FINE No grit (used as a final finish after waxing mostly, any details on the skis that new polishing). Hope this helps.
@@sidecuttuning how does the fine, white fibertex compare to soft brushes/cork. Can you use it instead of a nylon/horse hair brush for polishing? or rather after?
Great video! Best at home tuning video i've seen. For the price the tuning kit is defitnally worth it. Personnaly i wouldn't do the side edge that way, but overall a great tutorial. Gonna check out how to build that bench. Cheers, have a great season.
Wait, wait, wait. This is not a ski tuning video for anyone trying to tune at home. This guy is using tools that are better than 90% of shops out there. This is high quality race prep. This is not for a diy skier.
Thanks for the feedback. This video is intended for those at home 😊 and anyone who wants a safer more enjoyable experience on-snow. Ski tuning is directly related to improving your skills on-snow and as coaches we want to demystify tuning for people because it's actually incredibly easy with the correct tools and information. Yes, one could say these are the basic steps for a 'race prep' however they are the exact steps done for a recreational weekend skier (minus a few nuances) whose goal is to have more fun and improve their turns. Our sport is so costly that in our opinion most are missing out on SO much when you don't tune your gear. We're here to give anyone interested the confidence and knowledge to DIY. And yes, you're right it can be very tricky to find really knowledgeable ski shops that tune well. However, that has changed a lot over the past few years and if you search a little you can find shops that do really great work. All the best!
Read your reply and re watched your video. I understand you want to sell your product, which looks on point. However you're misleading the viewer with the title. This is not diy unless you have some experience. Do you offer clinics on tunning? If so I'd like to swing by and check out your product.
How have I never heard of you!?! Stuck in the basement inhaling to much ptex smoke I guess. Just checked out your website and I wish the boss would have let me go to SIA back when it was legit. I'm going to still stick by my comments though. Peace
Thanks for the FB. Our four step system has helped many. Yes, we offer tuning workshops for all abilities. In fact, our 'model' has always been based around 'free education'. It's our belief that skiing and boarding are both way more fun when your gear is tuned correctly. PM us if you're interested in knowing more about us and/or our products. It's much easier to discuss on the phone or in-person. @@grujenkins
Ski company quality control leaves a lot to be desired. None of the skis are flat to begin with usually railed tip and tail and a lot of times base high under foot. I find this scenario even on high dollar skis and all brands. Such a rip to the consumer since the race techs pick the best skis out for the pros and the consumer basically gets the seconds
I'm trying to figure out what I should buy for a simple kit. Some sites seem to recommend the diamond stone. Some say file. Your site Is the first time that i've come across tyrolfit. If I were to only buy one set to start , which set should I have? Or a mix of diamond and file? I'm gonna have to buy my set up in pieces. I do have a few things already.
Would these be used instead of a file or diamond stone? If i were to buy one of these for a basic kit which one should i buy? Diamond, ceramic or files?
Electric machines don't replace your hand tools. They are simply another tool that some prefer to sharpen the side-edges on skis and boards. The machine you're referring to comes with a 600 grit stone and that is ALL you need. If you're looking at the Carrot machine we recommend two stones: a 120 grit and the ceramic stone. Hope this helps.
Good question. You need to remove your sidewall (or at least some of it) prior to sharpening. Depending how much sidewall you remove will determine how many times you can sharpen before removing more sidewall. Hope this helps.
@sidecuttuning so you're recommending removing sidewall prior to every true Sharpening? (I assume not when just using diamond stone. Just when filing?)
You remove sidewall if you see the colour of your sidewall on the diamond stone (or any stone) OR in the teeth of the file. You'll need to have your sidewall tool handy ALL THE TIME because you don't want the sidewall to interfere with your ability to get the edge(s) sharp. @@carterfan80
Thanks very much. The point really is you need a sidewall remover (you can't do a proper job without one) and you'll use it when needed....which will be a lot!!@@carterfan80
Thanks for these videos. Is it true that brushing with steel or brass will dull the edges somewhat? I typically tune the edges first then wax/brush. Thanks.
Yes it is 'possible' to dull your edges using steel and brass brushes after sharpening depending how hard you push and/or the technique you're using. You could brush with your brass/steel brushes then tape the base prior to sharpening and use only soft brushes after sharpening.....OR if that's not an option you could wax and brush, then tape the base and sharpen after. See our 'advanced tuning tip' specific to this.
Thanks for the quick reply. Advanced waxing tips are hard to come by. I have always tried to sharpen before waxing to keep my diamond stones from clogging up with wax. Speaking of which- any tips for cleaning diamond stones? Thx again. @@sidecuttuning
How wide is the side without the file (facing the hand)? At least in the video it looks like there’s space to put a couple small countersunk holes. I’m in USA, the shipping is as much as the actual unit so I’ll have to wait until I’m ready to buy more tools. I have a mobile tuning shop so I’m starting to get ideas for improving next year’s setup.
Very concise yet detailed guide, the filming and presentation is top notch as well. I noticed there was no use of any ski-specific base cleaners such as Rode Glider Cleaner or Swix Glide Wax Cleaner prior to waxing unlike many other tutorials/clinics. Instead, this guide suggests the isopropyl and distilled water mixture for both polishing and cleaning. The other guides recommend the base cleaner in addition to brushing in order to help the new wax adhere better. 1. Is this lack of base cleaner specific to Nanox, or do you guys find that this solution is sufficient for all waxes when the base is prepared with a brass/steel brushing? 2. Additionally, is there a recommended ratio of the isopropyl solution? Thanks in advance, been really enjoying using the tools.
This is our recommendation as well as Nanox's. For cleaning you can use a mixture high 40% denatured alcohol to 60% distilled water. You can play with the mixture.
