Hi.i hope you will see this..I have a Honda civic 2013 and couple of weeks back my climate control panel went out of power when I tried to adjust my power mirrors..the fan and the ac compressor is not working..I checked the fuses with a fuse checker and they look fine..what could it be?
Bought a used 2018 Camry with 60k miles. I do a lot of city driving with it. At about 95k miles I get this same problem with ICS and checkengine with o2 sensor code. I changed o2 sensor and everything cleared. Cars been good until a few months back. It's at 160k miles now. This time no checkengine light and no codes on the scan tool, but dashboard will randomly start showing ICS Malfunction along with Radar Cruise Malfunction, Blind-Spot Monitor Malfunction, Headlight System Malfunction, and Pre-Collision System Malfunction. Not sure what triggers it, as I'm driving the same as always. These warnings turn on probably 30% of the time i'm driving the car and they all come on at the same time. Car drives like new, no weird noises or anything. Been having this problem since about 150k miles on the odometer, it's at 160k miles now. I notice headlights will still work if i turn them on when these warning lights are flashing on the dashboard, but they will delay by 5 seconds or so to turn on. Blind-Spot Monitor and Radar Cruise stops working completely while the warnings are flashing, but otherwise will work perfectly when the warnings go off. My guess is it's probably a bad ground wire or a bad relay? Maybe I should change the same o2 sensor out again? This time I don't have any codes on my scan tool to go off of unfortunately.
Hello. I have a 2010 Panamera. I have code 8307, "communication with Lin bus A/C 1" code. Have changed the blower control module and confirmed that blower works with 12v applied. Can you suggest what elst to look at? The console Co trolls work and I can get heat/AC when I power the blower directly with 12v. Thanks.
Took mine to the shop, got codes c1277, po7ae-09, u0415-00. Needed an alignment, had to keep wheel turned so far off to go straight. Fixed. Got the alignment, cleared the codes. Thought it was fixed, steering returned. 5km down the road, advance trac- service power steering now reappeared. Drove back to the shop, cleared the codes. Said the codes pointed to needing both rear control arms replaced. Drove it for 2 days, issue came back. Now I'm stuck.
@@waqasazmat81 this is what the mechanic gave me after speaking to ford... FORD: 2011-2012 Fusion ISSUE Some 2011-2012 Fusion vehicles equipped with 2.5L, 2.5L Atkinson or 3.0L engine and MKZ vehicles equipped 2.5L Atkinson engine and built between 2/1/2011 through 8/16/2011 may experience higher than expected friction in the rearward/half front lower control arms. The steering system senses the high friction condition and may illuminate the instrument cluster stability/traction control light, or the message center may display Steering Fault/Service Steering Soon, accompanied by diagnostic trouble codes (DTCS) P07AE and U0415. ACTION Follow the Service Procedure steps to correct the condition. SERVICE PROCEDURE Step 1. Verify the vehicle build date: a. If the vehicle build date is prior to 2/1/2011 or after 8/16/2011, do not continue with this article. Refer to Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 204-01, for normal diagnostics. b. If the vehicle build date is 2/1/2011 to 8/16/2011, proceed to Step 2. (True) Step 2. Retrieve DTC codes: P074E-09 C1227 U0415-00 a. If P07AE and U0415 are not present and were not retrieved. Do not continue with this article. Refer to WSM, Section 204-01, for normal diagnostics. b. If P07AE and U0415 are present, proceed to Step 3. (True) Step 3: Raise the vehicle on a hoist. Refer to WSM, Section 100-02. In order to obtain accurate measurement, the suspension must be in full rebound with the weight of the vehicle supported by the frame. Raise and support the vehicle by the frame to allow the wheels to hang in the rebound position. Check both bellows at the steering gear housing/inner tie rod interface externally for signs of cuts or abrasions which may allow water intrusion into the gear assembly. a. If damage to the bellows exists or water intrusion is evident, replace the electronic power assist steering (EPAS) gear assembly. Refer to WSM, Section 211-02. b. If no damage exists, proceed to Step 4. (True) Step 4. Replace both the left and right rearward/haft front lower control arms (FLCA).
I just bought a 2013 528 for 2500 bucks. It has both of those codes and goes into limp mode every time you get on it, I cleaned that control valve, and it fixed the issues… very easy flip thanks to you!!!
It's the variable valve timing sensors they get stuck from dirty oil or metal shavings from the engine they should be replaced. These cars also have timing chain problems stretching due to not changing the oil properly if the chains have a lot of play change them!
These are interference motors... One tooth off on timing you hit piston to valve. Vhance the intake and exhast vvt solenoids and change the oil. Problem solved. The engine reduces performance due to the intake and exhast solenoids not corresponding the same with one another as they should it cuts pressure to the high pressure fuel pump so it doesnt dump fuel into the cylinders if it cant be birned out properly..... Long story short.... Intake and exhaust vvt solenoids located on apssenger side top of valve covers followed by an oil change. If timing is truly off youd have already hit piston and would require complete top end rebuild. I know this because ive rebuilt several of these motors myself and 1 tooth different anywhere between the crank and cam has contact
I didn't know about this switch until I started fixing the broken glove box latch on my 2008 Acura TSX (and I recently discovered that I couldn't open the trunk by lifting the release button by the license plate). I already had removed the 3 catches that hold up the glove box, doing that exposed the back of the switch and the wires. Using needle nose pliers I pulled the back of the switch out, not easy, and then clipped both wires, stripped some insulation from both, twisted them together and installed a small wire connector. No soldering needed. Now my trunk opens as it should. Thanks for the video!
I have 2008 accord.i have code p0533.replaced sensor already.now if clear code and start car ac will work till I shut off car and restart car .when I start car again ac stops working code comes back on.
I got the code c1277. Just replaced the rack and pinion knowing they always good bad thinking that was the issue and nothing. Power and grounds are all good. I’ve heard tpms sensors can disable the power steering. Just replaced sensors, programmed, and still nothing. I’m hoping an alignment will fix my issue because i am running out of solutions here
Are you a shop or diy? Delete the codes and drive the vehicle. Steering wheel should be straight. If it's not and you constantly holding the steering wheel in one direction for vehicle to go to straight then will disable the power assist.
Best video. Literally just done this today for my Dads S500. Tried the satellite module no luck. Turned out to be voice control module. Brought the jumper from Amazon, done as stated in video, perfect. Radio now works again. Just saved £100’s taking it to dealer to fix. ✅✅✅✅✅✅✅
Thanks for making this video. I have a c1763 which I suspected was too much pressure on one side, I think the rear. The pump works without testing which I think it’s code c1756
Honestly I am not sure, things are not getting better. Manufacturers do not want shops or DIYs to work on the vehicles anymore. Shops spend so much $ on the scanners then the service info and tools. But its never enough. Glad it helped you out.
Hey there! I am looking for that Reluctor Plate that works together with the CMP sensor, i will appreciate your help if anyone here have one to sell. Thanks!!
Hello im here for help.i have a 2011 Mercedes benz s550 4matic.w221. When new the person before me who own the car opted for the bang & olufsen sound system. I have no sound in my car.. I run a scan and it says my satelite radio tuner was bad. I sent it along with the big bang & olufsen amp and also another long amp thatbis located on the left side of the trunk to a mercedes tech repair shop who told me the satelite tuner is bad and cannot repair so he got me another one and tranfer all the info. Also said my other 2 amps was good. I plug all items back in and still no sound. My voice module is not located on the side it is located under the dynamic seat pump beside the rear fuse box.also my voice module has no fiber optic going to it. I only have fiber optic going to one amp and the satelite radiio tuner. Also when i scan the car after plugging everything in i get no fault codes anymore. I dpnt know what to do. I still see navigation but fm/am dont work also cant play cd. I hear the changer run because i have cd in it. Buttons on steering wheel to control phone and volume, nothing. Please Please help.. ANYBODY! Thanks
Thanks for the excellent instruction on how to test the vapor canister purge VSV. Did replacing just that one purge VSV solve all three of the codes, or just one?
It’s salvable no need to change the transmission nor junk the vehicle. I FIX the same issues on my 2004 pilot with 289,000 miles and fix it like new by changing both the two 3rd and 4th pressure switches located under the plastic cover just behind the driver side wheel and also the shift selector near by that was damaged and didn’t show the other gears when shifting gears, it was like the other LED’s disappeared and most time the vehicle was stuck in Parking also had an errático Bucking when first accelerating or shifting from 1-2 gear or 3-4. sometimes the joker will act as if I put it in Neutral after coming to stop lights it was a circus. When working with this pilots you have to start from simplex to complex troubleshooting and try it all. Either-way it will be better than replacing the entire transmission unnecessarily. #1) if it’s a once in a while thing, do the 3 or 4 section transmission flushes using 3 or 4 gallons of highly millage automatic transmission fluid from Walmart ( see other RU-vid videos) aprox 140 this May fix the problem or buy you some time before step #2. #2) do the fluid and changes as mentioned before and change the 3rd and 4th pressure sensors located behind the driver wheel plastic cover( one is brown and the upper is black or vice verse) DO NOT BUY THE CHEAP GENERIC SENSOR from eBay or amazons, IT WONT CLEAR THE FAULT, I WASTED MY MONEY and almost JUNKED my Pilot. I learned this the hard way and almost junk the vehicle, I bunt into a 2003 pilot at the junk yard and removed couple parts including this two sensors finally replacing the cheaply mistake with old OEM parts just for jerk and giggles and it fix the problem, stopped the blinking D. #3) I did all the above and could see where my gears where landing after changing from one another except D and P and a briefly lighting as I moved the stick between them, so Inwent back to the junk yard and pull the transmission Shifter sensor, this was a 250 dollar mouse size part with a harness at authozone that I was able to get at the junk yard for 75 and shannam, boom it worked like new. So don’t just have up on your pilots for this, give it a try.
Am working on the same faults on 2013 Chvy Malibu 2.5 given me same faults code , i ha changed the vvt sensor and phaser both intake and exhaust and new engine oil but still complaining p0016 -p0089 . Timing too good and all fuses good, I need your help
