Small Farm Innovations is a leading service provider for TYM tractors. Please subscribe and give comments or questions. As a mechanic over 41 years, TYM is one of the better tractors on the market today.
Contact us: (979)200-0766 or (979)200-1473 phil@smallfarminnovations.com (Phil Livengood) Small Farm Innovations (www.smallfarminnovations.com) Caldwell Tx, 77836
I love these tractors! My TYM 474 FEL isn't lifting heavy loads as well as it used to, and it can't even lift its wheels off the ground anymore. It worked fine for the past two years, but this spring, it's been struggling. I’m thinking I need to check the PSI; I believe the spec is around 2260 psi. Does anyone know where the adjustment is on the valve for a 474 HST? Is it a shimmed spring or an Allen key adjustment?
Hello, i noticed your answering questions... i have a tym lt250 the has a "4 in one bucket" everthing but opening the bucket works it seems to put some pressure on but not much just the pistons move a eighth of a inch. Thinking might be electrical? We have looked at all the fitting they seem fine. Any help would be much appreciated.
my 394 wont turn right will turn left .loader works fine 3 point works fine no leaks .always had a hard time turning one way dont see any videos on this can u help me with this
Steering valve, bent steering cylinder rod, piston seal works in one direction (rare). Remove the right hose from the steering cylinder and install a gauge 0-3000 PSI, Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left and read the pressure. Replace hose and install on the left side and read gauge after turning wheel all the way to the right. if equal then steering valve is ok. raise the front end off the ground with the loader and turn the wheels all the way to the left. Remove left hose from steering cylinder. have someone turn steering wheel to the left. if the hyd oil leaks from fitting on cylinder the piston ring or piston seal is bad.
Very informative video, I recently bought a used (like new) Berti Offset Flail mower TA/S 200 from Messicks in PA. unfortunately there was not a manual. Therefore your video was very helpful, especially removing the "Transportation Pin". Though mine was a bit different than your setup, but, nevertheless an important reminder to remove it. An important safety note should be highlighted such as the weight of the mower and the offset on any embankment, one needs proper ballast on the tractor!
Need more videos of the legendary yanmar 4300 man... I have the Green version with an 88' Deere 1050 75 loader with the quick attach model 8 backhoe. Absolutely incredible tractors. Big power (for their size) heavy, excellent hydraulics and the yanmars are slightly better than my deere even with deeres "big bore upgrade" with the 7.5 gallon hydraulic pump.
Good viedo for those who are just setting this type of Flail Mower on a tractor. You mentioned that this tractor is border-line for width between the rear tires. It would be good to know what size and hp is this tractor in the video...? And should this model of Flail mower be used on a larger tractor with more width between the rear wheels...?
That a question for the company you purchase your mower from. I ask many questions before selling a flail mower. Maschio is usually more expensive than others other but the quality is unsurpassed.
Funny not funny.. But this happened to my 574 in the first two hours... I was so annoyed.. I literally looked and pulled on every line to the bucket.. But.. By the time I got to the dealership the fluid collected dirt to see what happened.. The pin to the bucket moved and popped the yellow coneection line JUST ENOUGHto lose pressure but NOT enough to pop off nor pull off by hand...
Hello ! ,I have a maschio entry 120 when release the bale the cutin bar is in the right position go up ,when I close the baler the cuting bar go down wrong what is hapen ?
Had the opportunity to use my IHI baler today for the first time, made 50 bales on my test plot. My impression on the net wrap baler is as follows. AWESOME PIECE OF EQUIPMENT. from set up to use, smooth as silk. When the baler is set up right and double checked...so satisfying when it spits out bale after bale. The size... more or less is equivalent to a standard square bale... my only thoughts going forward... My hay rake is not sized appropriately for the baler. Need to remove appropriately 5' of tines off of it to make it sized down to make it effective to use. SFI....I will be in touch to talk about the Takakita tedder/ rake to match the baler. The bales.... nice and tight and easy to stack. Accumilator.......awesome accessory that I definitely recommend. SFI customer service...no problems also, highly recommend.
Thanks for this! We just got an entry 150 and trying to figure out where to buy the right oil for the automatic oiler. Any brands you recommend or specs you can point to?
From Me. Watch the video... I'm using a T354 which is 29 hp at the PTO to run the 4x4 baler and have for years. One of my customers has a L4760 pulling a Entry 150. In hills a larger tractor is required for safety reasons.
I know I'm late to the game, but this is exactly what I've been looking for! Never used a wheel rake but thinking about getting one soon. Thank you for the detailed look at setting it up and using it. Most of the other videos show it in use, but they don't explain it. Thank you for putting this out there.
Back in the 1960's we just got hold of the sickle bar and picked it up and a rod went through on the back edge and a nut screwed on. simple fast worked well. We were not to damn lazy to lift it.
Thank you for this video....I'll be coming back often. My local dealer says that the new R14 tires are not available yet on the T394, any idea when they will be....?
Hey, I just seen you have had the TYM 1104 for 4-5 years now ? Would love to see a video of it based on what do you think of it. Recommend it ? Any issues ? Etc
Thank you! I am new to the tractor world and have 50 hrs on my TYM 474 and have owned it about six months. I noticed the other day that the bucket would not curl down using pressure and that I could curl it up just using my hands with the engine off. I googled the problem and this video came right up and sure enough I had one of the hoses loose. It had not fallen out. so thanks again this kept me from having to have the dealer pick it up for a repair. When I was hooking the hose back up I struggled for a couple of seconds getting it in there and heard air being sucked into the cylinder. Is this anything I need to be concerned with or with the air work it's way out?
First off thanks for sharing your knowledge through your videos. I am 83 yrs. old and been around tractors all my life. I am very interested in the TYM 654 power shuttle tractor. I have had many kubota tractors over the years with great success, currently a 2005 M5700 open station and a B2650 cab either of which has had a problem. I have 100 plus acres of ground half woods and half fields. Due to allergies now I need a tractor like the size of the 654 w/cab. I have read some articles where wheel seals leak on some models , front wheels locking up on the 654 and some other issues. I have never had a water issue on any tractor, is that something new now? I am to old to be repairing a tractor, so is the 654 a reliable fit for me? I live in Maine and need a tractor to plow snow on a long driveway in winter and mow fields basically. Kubota prices are way to high now so that is the reason for looking at TYM. I trust your honesty and thanks in advance for your help.
The tractor has a in board, single reduction, final drive. This is a front wheel assist for pulling not pushing. Once you combine the weight of the loader then try to push, a tooth will break off the ring gear. To avoid this, go to two wheel drive when pushing if you insist on four wheel drive, then push less if possible. Front axle leaks...We will replace seals once if it's under warranty. if its not under warranty we will drain all the gear lube out and fill with EP0 which is a liquid grease. We had only two failures at our dealership since 2010. Other than that, the tractor is a good unit. Make sure you tell your dealer to stick you a block heater on it.
if you have free travel, replace clutch disk . If you do not have free travel adjust your clutch. Never regulate speed with a clutch. You can operate in low range for now if needed. A upgraded clutch will cost less than going through TYM. Calculate about 2k for a new clutch.
Can you pick that bale up when it’s 50% moisture content? You need to wrap those bales immediately after baling. Which means either following along with it in the field while the other half is baling or only doing an acre or two of baling and then getting the wrapper. Can’t let the outside moisture content go down very much.
Very cool video. I'm interested to know how often it's needed to change/replace the idler sprockets/sprocket with bearing. what is the most common failure mode?
I went to your instructional….looking for guidance on spool valve selection …there are two rams…should the rotating ram have a float dentent feature on the spool valve…? Or two float detects for the outreach ram…? Basically I want the unit to move upwards if the terrain dictates….
If you feel you need a float position. You only need to float the unit not the out reach. If you have a front end loader with float, take the loader off and use the loader valve, get you some hoses made up and your done. If you don't want to do that then go to Amazon, Norther tool and get a dual spool valve with float and plumb it in. It this is the way you go like with a Prince brand or Cross brand valve, get the power beyond sleeve. "P" port is from the pump "PBY" goes to your lift cover "T" or "R" goes to the side of the transmission. A cheap way... is to run a hose to tank. put a female quick coupler on it. Get the mower in position then connect one of the hoses to it. I do no worry with the float because there is slack in the linkage.
Hi sorry to bother you guys again but I have another question. I put the first 50 hours in the tym 754 and I am not sure what hydraulic oil to use. The book says ISO VG 46. Do I I need something that says trans/hydraulic oil or can I use just regular iso hydraulic oil? Would tractor supply traveler premium transmission/ hydraulic oil be sufficient? It doesn’t mention iso 46. The guys I bought the last tym from said that the tractor supply stuff wasn’t good enough and to use their agrilube. But, since then they have changed brands two times. Thanks for any info!
use universal premium hydraulic(tractor) fluid from tractor supply. do not use 303 it's for tractor manufactured before 1973. I'm not promoting tractor supply it's just the easiest place to go. you can use john deere hygaurd if you feel rich.
What you seen in this video is scattered windrows from wind the night before. I have seen this baler take a 3.5 ft windrow like our 4X4 and 4X5 all day long with very little loss. 3ft wide and tall is best for speed. The narrow pick up makes the baler more affordable and is the same width as our old 3x3 IHI models that were discontinued because they are going to be made in China. The narrow pickup is also welcomed in the vineyards and pine straw plantations.
Hello, What would be roughly the round bale weight if we're talking medium density and for high density as well? And is this baler available in Canada? Thanks
It depends on moisture content. but an average is 200lbs on medium density and 300 on Max. We hear some of our customers two years ago was getting 350.lbs and max density
Simple common problems that can happen to all the brands. Build a shield or protector to eliminate these things. Yes they should already have one in those places but some dont.
I wanted to give you an update on the 654 clutch They replaced it with a heavier clutch. They are great guys and got on it and replaced it fast. So, I went to the shop and tried it out. It seemed to work fairly smooth. that was just in the parking lot but I suspect it would work just fine. BUT, they had a new 754 with power shuttle on the lot. I wanted the 754 when I got the last one because it is a little heavier and may be a wider stance. I feel it would work better on the side of mountains of wv Baling Hay. Back in 2017 I tried the 654 with power shuttle and I did not like it. that's why we went with the basic model. I tried the 2023 PS and it seemed like a different animal. Worked very well. They must have changed it. Yep, I ended up trading for the 754....partially on your advice for the power shuttle. There have been some changes as well. I hated the PTO level being on the floor level under the seat. It seemed a little hard to get into gear because it would bottom out on the floor. The level next to the seat should work much better. I had a handle for the three point hitch put on the last one but they come standard now. I had two fuel lines rub through on the old ones and I told them to find them on the new tractor and wrap them. They said TYM must have been informed because both of the ones I replaced run through a protective conduit now. It shows they acknowledge problems and address the issues. Push button 4x4 but that probably comes on all models with PS. I leave it in 4x4 since I never go on road. I have had way to many close calls on these hills forgetting to put it in 4x4. One upgrade would be nice would be all four wheels braking but that would be a lot more expensive. I LOVE the Deutz engine. It will also start in very low temps. I had them put a block heater in because I feel it may be easier on the battery. I put 2100 hours on the last one and they seemed to have fixed any problems I had with it. I think they are a good solid tractor without all the extra things you never use that you have to pay more for on other tractors. I hope the review helps anyone considering buying one. I also noticed that if you want a Zetor under 80 hp it will be a TYM with a zetor sticker on it.
The 754 has a planetary final drive in the rear axle. I think its the same axle they used in their older 100HP tractors. Make sure you drain the water on your fuel filters often because if the Deutz engine sensor detects water in the primary fuel filter it will not start. Keep the radiator CLEAN! The cooling system is a little small for this tractor but not noticeable in most states. Take care of the Power shuttle shift lever. We have people break them off. Overall the 754 is a stout tractor. We have never had to pull a head off a Deutz engine or split a TYM tractor with a Power shuttle transmission. You may see a different shift pattern after 30-50 hours. If it jumps when going forward or reverse your transmission may need to be recalibrated. We see this once in a while but it only once after the 30-50 hour mark. Congratulation's on your tractor.
Is using air okay to clean the radiator? I worry about corrosion if I use water. I do check the radiator every time I use it if I am in conditions that will get hay or seeds in there. I believe that the manual said not to use a fuel treatment. I used the howls diesel treat in the last one to keep moisture down. What do you think about using it? I try to keep the fuel tank full when possible to guard against condensation and water in fuel. Thanks so much for you help and information!
@@Ravenwalkerkai1 We never use water. Go to Amazon and get this www.amazon.com/Lisle-88500-Radiator-Genie/dp/B01N23E9WX/ref=sr_1_4?crid=1O5S9YDB7OCB4&keywords=radiator+cleaning+wand&qid=1699473003&sprefix=radiator+clea%2Caps%2C198&sr=8-4. I make my own out of 1/2" Copper tubbing. If we use fuel treatment (which we have but not in Duetz) is a Conklin product. Howls is good if your climate is cold. But see if it adds to lubricity. Howls performs a chemical reation to convert the water in to hydrogen
