Hi there, I have a fully blown capacitor on my microZeus. Is there anyway to repair this or am I out another $85 again? Appreciate any recommendations.
It might be worth, commenting on two other overlooked mysteries. The single connector for the third socket as opposed to the double on the first two. And the extra 100 ma gained by changing the jumper which is okay so long as you do not at some point run it with the too small number of modules which I suppose could happen by accident if enough got pulled off the ribbon cable by accident.
This video came too late for me. Today, that same capacitor decided to pop off my uZeus! I'm deciding whether to try to salvage it (disassembling the module looks like a real pain) or just abandon my HEK and buy a new Intellijel skiff.
You can totally fix this without taking it completely apart... Buy a cap with the same specs (match capacitance and voltage in a through-hole package) from Mouser or Digikey (or Arrow or whatever) and bend the leads into little circles with the tip of a needle-nose plier, then surface mount the part with a dab of solder, making sure to get good reflow on the hole/pad. When you've got that, bend the cap back up into line with the other cap and zip tie them together (not *too* tight). Then you can use silicone at the base of both caps to hopefully ward off future problems. It's gonna look funny, but it's better than spending another $85.
I would think the flying bus cables could grab one capacitor right in the cleavage between them both, and if the cable is pulled on at all the leverage on the capacitor would rip it right off the pcb fairly easily.
It's possible, but as I said in the video they broke so cleanly right at the PCB and didn't yank out of the cap body which makes me think it was bending fatigue.
Sorry, I don't know anyone specifically in the US besides myself who I can recommend. Any competent electronics tech should be able to pull it off though, the most touchy thing is making sure you don't wreck the tuning while you're working.
[Edit: They seem to have resolved the incompatibility issue in 2021] From ethermagic.eu: "It appears that Moog Music inc performed a modification on the latest production run of the Etherwave circuit board which risks some instruments to have a restricted pitch range after installing the ESPE01 module. We are investigating the issue and present a solution in short time. If the serial number of your Etherwave Standard is higher than 30000 or higher than 7500 on your Etherwave Plus, please put your ESPE01 upgrade plans on hold for the moment. We will publish updated information in this place, soon." So, yes they've changed the circuit, but it's unclear whether Moog has made it unnecessary.
Yes, the main difference in the is the additional CV converter PCB in the Plus, so the insides will look different. The Big Briar Etherwave that I mod in this video is also a little bit different than a modern Moog Etherwave. When you order the mod from Thierry Frankel, you will select the Etherwave model you have and it will come ready to install. (link in description) The installation is slightly different in all three cases, but it's very similar.
I see a couple of options. You could tack a new one on the top of the pads using longer leads, using glue or something to attach the capacitor to the PCB, or if you have a nice desoldering tool, you could remove the negative voltage supply and fully repair it back to its as-built state.
Если заменить аддитивный смеситель на мультипликативный, то этот узел станет ненужным. If you replace the additive mixer with a multiplicative mixer, this smal device becomes unnecessary...
@@bloopclick Если использовать вместо диода транзистор. Один сигнал подавать на базу, а второй на эмиттер. Тогда буферные каскады ненужны. If to use the transistor instead of the diode. One signal to give on base, and the second on the emitter. Then buffer stages are unnecessary.
