First time I've seen anything from this fella and soon as I turned up the sound all I herd is him speaking negative comments about other cars we all ain't got a lot of money to make cars perfect so chill out my friend
@@ndyke020475 if you actually listened in the video yous understand I wasn't hating on anything or any of them, just the fact we are overhelemed with focuses and stuff like that you have a good look around a couple but after a bit you get fed up of it and have to skim past it. I even stated "no hate to the owners or cars at all, it's just the fact we are overwhelmed with the same thing over again"
@@ndyke020475 i understand not everyone's made of money, my car was bought for £500, needed a tonne of work which I source cheapest parts for and did everything myself. The more expensive looking bits I got bargains on. Steering wheel cost me a tenner, XR3i interior was free. Bonnet was free and XR3i bumper cost me £20 including lights and delivered. Side skirts I got for £40. The engine I rebuilt and fitted myself to save money, clutch has been done 3x with cheapest parts, and ive had to redo the headgasket 7 times as the head is warped and i cant even afford to have it skimmed. Mine was by far the most cheapest build at Ford Fair possible this year. No corners were cut but very very minimal costs spent.
Unfortunately I didn’t, I saw your video last night and I’m so sad I missed so much of the retro fun around the other end. It was such a chaotic day for me it’s the first time I’ve been in a few years so I just didn’t know where to go lol and I can’t believe I missed so much. Hopefully next year I’ll make it around almost everything 🤞
Mate I loved it, I’m not normally a fan of light coloured cars as I mentioned but yours was set perfectly. It really stood out and appealed to me it was just the right consistency of everything and not too over the top. Great work mate
We have a 1996 1.4 mk6 escort and we are having similar issues with the emissions, but there is essentially no smoke just a decent wisper. Im not sure where to go from here ?
Shame the actual soldering and fixing part is sped up and so far away, and not visible. A slow motion close up of your solder work would have been greatly appreciated. Looks like you have some good skills there, we d like to see them. Many, including myself, been soldering for years, but rarely on complex circuit boards. So we need guidance. The solder points look tiny, what about a budget microscope? I'm guessing the eyesight of most people would not be good enough to see the points in the first place without some kind of magnification? Oh and your tape to keep dials correct is a great idea BTW:) 💡
Wow I’m glad I’ve found your video, my 2007 galaxy has an issue where all the dash would just go dark, bang the dash and it would come back but it’s got more and more frequent, just done a service / brakes etc and it started on the ramps , removed from ramps and checked it with my xtool reader and I’ve got all those cluster comms codes coming up cos my reader is bi direction I done the testing and now the bloody thing just turns over without starting , another scan and yet again same codes reference the cluster so I know what I’ll be doing today when I get home lol
Fitted today. Switches to indicator fine but only the first time its used in that ignition cycle then wont switch from drl to indicator again until ignition is powered off and on but does the same again. Any ideas please? Same for both sides!
not massively clues up on the CANBUS networks, but if you’ve got comms with the one but not the other i’d be inclined to say fault is elsewhere with another module or wiring creating a short or open circuit on the MS CAN line
@@KylesCarsYT it's on my old cluster. New one works so fault seems isolated to the old ipc. Sometimes works when heats up so I though I'd reflow connections and ic's but no luck
@@joeclarke1222 sometimes they don’t always work and there’s other damage on the board than just solder joints. Actually the one i based this video off didn’t work in the end, it lasted another 2 weeks tho, i ended up replacing it, but lots of others i’ve repaired have work. Sometimes you just get unlucky and the cluster is just unrepairable, i probably should have mentioned that in the video, and a few years on i watch back and see ways i could’ve simplified and explained things better, but it only started showing errors again after i posted the video and unfortunately on RU-vid once it’s posted I can’t edit it without reposting, and with all the views this one’s got it’s not viable to repost, i will probably make an updated video when I get chance and leave both intact.
I'm guessing you don't have the DAB radio working with this setup? I wonder if there is any way to re-use that dab cable (the one that was fitted to the original head unit and which you put to the back because it didn't connect to anything). Even just as an aerial?
Yea DAB radio works. This headunit has its own DAB aerial hence the cars built in one isn’t used, the one included with the unit is much better quality than the cars one
@@KylesCarsYT Do you have a central speaker in the dashboard? I have a s-max and it has a big speaker above the central vents. But for some reason when I install the xtrons unit the central speaker isn't working. The other speakers work fine. Is your central speaker working?
@@dallan7740 the central speaker is part of the stock headunit, it should ONLY be used for bluetooth calls / satnav read out if it’s working correctly. The stock radios however are renowned for issues where it’ll play out of the central speaker when it shouldn’t. The central speaker shouldn’t be used for music as it degrades the audio quality, you’re much better off removing that (useless) speaker and fitting the storage box instead.
i used F43 in engine bay fusebox, but you can use any that’s ignition live if you want them as DRL’s, or wire into the sidelights so they work on sidelights only
PLCC2 LEDs fit and work fine for changing the colour or replacing failed ones, they aren’t the same as what’s fitted, but they do fit the solder pads fine and are what everyone uses to modify these with.
Can you turn the car on and run it without the cluster being plugged in? I can leave my cluster with someone to repair it, I don’t trust myself to solder. But it could be out of the car for a couple of days. But I’ve got a full tank of fuel and my phone has a GPS app and I only have to make a couple of short journeys so speed and fuel aren’t a problem. The oil and column is good so I’m not fussed about that either. Just wondering if it will all work.
it might run for a short while but i wouldn’t trust it, the car will keep performing random checks to make sure the immobiliser is still there and functioning and if not shut off- that’s why the cluster fault happens and peoples cars cut out. Also you’ve got the issue of if you accidentally stall that’s it game over, and you could gurantee you’ve driven for years and haven’t stalled since. you had the car and got used to the clutch, and. now you can’t restart it be the moment. you stall again.
I know this is an old video but my 2006 ford fiesta has encountered a similar immobiliser fault suddenly after sitting off the road for about a month. The weather got frosty as it does this time of year and suddenly wouldn't bypass immobiliser. I'm hoping this is the same problem as it's same time they used leadless solder.
yes it affects them more in the cold weather. I’m in a lot of car groups and the last few weeks this issue gets posted up at least 3 times every day i’m sharing this video like crazy at the moment
@@KylesCarsYT thanks for getting back to me I'll get a look at mine on Friday. Car is up at my mother's currently stranded there. Garage looked at the car and said they didn't know what's up with it.
Brilliant pal helped me out with the c max ,took out the clocks and took it to the local computer shop guy up the road and he went over it with a solder iron for a £10 , , your that good I've subscribed, 👍
It's the xtrons head unit for fords. There's a newer one now with 4gb ram/64gb storage and android 13. His description says it's 10 inch but I think it's actually 7 inch
Very informative Kyle. Gave me the confidence to give it a go on a Mk4 petrol Mondeo. I noticed a few differences or points of interest which might be of help to some. Firstly, I easily got to the disconnect the loom point but the clip looked odd. So, for those who may worry about breaking it, on top of the main grey plug is another black part that fits over the the main plug and down both of its sides. This is the clip that holds the plug into the socket on the cluster. To release it you pull up at the loom end and it swings over the top towards the other end of the plug. In so doing it part pulls out the plug from its socket and you can then fully detach the plug. I got the covers off but on my model the centre LCD display is attached to the main circuit board by two flat flexible cable (FFC) strips. You have to slide out a small brown retaining clip from each of the pcb connecting socket after which the FFC can be teased out. Then the pcb can be removed. It was a bit of a fiddlle to get one of them back in as far as I felt it had originally been located but it works. I've soldered a lot of things but found my pins quite small and tight compared to Kyle's image. I was not confident I had not connected two pins inadvertently with solder so I took some close up images and blew them up to check that each re-soldered pin was not connected to anything else. It took a few goes but I got there. I used a small pointed soldering pin that I had filed to make it quite thin and sharp. My cluster had been randomly and increasingly flashing on and off for months but now its ok. When it went off I could drive but I lost all the display as well as the indicators although the external lights and their controls all worked. SatNav worked but lost night sense dimming. Very satisfied Kyle. Thank you.
@@AdotJdot90 same engine other than bigger internals. just need the engine, ecu and inlet with injectors. You can also use blacktop out of a Focus but that requires a little more work
@user-mx3zp1ms1g if you go 2.0 it’s one of the best and simplest swaps with mondeo mk1 silvertop as you’ll have nearly everything you need on your old engine, you have to swap the sump, and oil pickup off your 1.6 tho as Escorts are designed slightly differently underneath, you can use your 1.6 ancillaries and exhaust manifold etc, you’ll need a 1.8 inlet, exhaust manifolds are all the same tho so your 1.6 one will be okay for that, and run it on a 2.0 mondeo ECU or Escort 1.8 ECU tho you’ll need to re pin the loom connector for the mondeo 2ltr one. Other option is 1.8 Escort engine and convert it to 130 spec with 2.0 / fiesta rs1800i cams and it’ll actually make the same power near enough as the 2.0 mondeo engine. The actual 130s used a different inlet manifold and ECU from the normal 1.8 but the regular “115 spec” ones are more than capable for converting to 130 spec still and you’ll still get the benefit from fitting just the cams. Mines currently standard engine wise, standard 1.8 115bhp inlet manifold, 3” cold air inlet with repositioned MAF to accommodate new filter location, and ST170 exhaust manifold. I will be fitting 130 spec/2.0 cams later on.
You have been the most informative accurate and factual presenter I have watched on you tube covering this problem of the instrument cluster ignition issue thank you for reiterating my amateur reasoning with your professional one much appreciated my friend
Is it possible to just buy a new cluster? I am bad at soldering and can't afford to lose my car for the duration of 3rd party repair. Or is there security codes or something like that?
you can replace the cluster, HOWEVER it will need programming to the car and to your keys as it forms the immobiliser. You’ll also need two keys so if you or a previous owner has lost the spare at some point in the cars life you cannot do it without having a new key made up ready to be programmed either, and it can’t be a clone it must be a new key ready for programming
the mk5 bumper bolts straight on a mk6 yes, they are essentially the same car minus a few structural changes other than the obvious design changes, however it doesn’t actually line up with the bonnet? grille or headlights correctly. A full mk5 front end is a direct bolt on to a mk6, you just need bumper, bonnet, lights and bonnet catch. I’ve got the mk5 XR3i bumper as A) damaged the original mk6 one and this was cheap locally, and b) I am doing a mk5 front end conversion in the future anyways so it makes me half way there, although most who do mk5 conversions go for the earlier front end, I want to go for the later 5b front end (with smiley grille in bonnet) as it’s lesser seen, and personally I prefer them altho most prefer the earlier 5a bonnets.
a lot of people do hate the Mk6 and for good reason. It was a facelift of a facelift of the Mk5 trying to improve what everyone felt Ford wrecked in comparison to older models. When the Mk5 came out practically everyone criticised it over the Mk4 so within less than 24 months Ford has to release a facelift-the mk5b to try rescue the Escort name. This didn’t work so they tried once more with the Mk6 but it was too late and it literally became a parts bin raid to finish up stock and ultimately lead to the killing off of the Escort name Me personally I prefer the Mk5 massively over the Mk6, BUT this matched exactly what spec I was after while remaining affordable. I’m in the process of doing a Mk5 conversion on it.
@@F4Insight-uq6nt that was exactly it, the Escort was trying to compete with likes of the Astra that were incomparable in comparison, Ford couldn’t make the numbers anymore that’s what killed off the Escort name.
Hey, great video. Sent my cluster off twice for repair, got it back yesterday. Still having issues. start the car, engine malfunction and esp light up, not in limp mode, but acceleration is very sluggish. Running live data the 2 accelertor position sensors are odd... D reads 0%.....E fluctuates up and down. Playing with the connector on the back of the cluster, i can sometimes get it to read 0%, thus being able to start the car with no errors, and acceleration is fine. Could it still be the cluster? Or possibly a wiring fault between the pedal and the cluster?Actually put a new pedal on, so i know it isnt that!! If you have any advice id appreciate it....Its a mk1 2009 kuga.But uses the same cluster from the focus etc. Many thanks.
Sounds like maybe the cluster needs replacement or the plug on the wiring harness is damaged. The cluster forms a connection for the throttle pedal so this is another common symptom. 9/10 times the solder joints crack and resoldering repairs it as shown in this video, but sometimes the tracks get damaged on the boad from the broken solder joints allowing some movement in the connector, and then vibrations from driving tear the tracks, OR the software corrupts from having a poor connection. Check the plug first and make sure non of the wiring pins have come adrift, but potentialy think about replacing the cluster. The issue with repalcing the cluster as it forms part of the immobilser the keys need to be reprogrammed before it will start. This can be done with FORScan BUT you will need 2 keys, it cannot be done with just 1 if the spare has got lost sometime, and you will need the extended licence on FORScan which you can get a two month free trial of. The clusters are the same as you said across Focus Mk2 and Kuga Mk1 models so any cluster of those will work- part numbers not important just match diesel to diesel - petrol to petrol. You can upgrade the older style clocks like in my video to the newer Facelift ones with a bigger LCD and silver trim, straight swap and just program the key as normal and your good to go, but being a Kuga yours will already have these newer style clocks in.
Hi mate thank you for this video, I know it's an old video but I wondered if you think this soldering issue might be my problem. My car is a 2008 ford c max 1.6 petrol. Firstly I got 'engine damage' message followed by 'acceleration reduced' when driving then got to my destination. Driving back it was fine and had gone away. Then used it 3 or 4 more times, absolutely fine. Then yesterday driving it again it says 'engine malfunction acceleration reduced' again, but this time my esp light came on and stayed on even if I switched esp off or on. I drive it today and it's fine for an hour. I ran the cars self diagnostics and it came up with E510 & D900. In a month I'm due to go on holiday with the kids which will be a 4 hour drive and don't want to drive for 4 hours in limp mode lol. I'm also a ham fisted idiot so I'm sure I will break something if I try this repair. But will give it a go if you are pretty sure this is my problem. The c max is a great car, this is the first problem I've had with it and having a disabled wife and 2 kids it's perfect to get the wheelchair and all our holiday stuff in without being an overly massive car.
need to get it plugged in and find the codes really. There is no self diagnostics, people (wrongly) tell you online you can get DTCs using the cluster secret menu, however you cannot. the “DTC” that come up are irrelevant and not actual fault codes, these are some kind of hidden code that only Ford understand and aren’t “Diagnostic Troubleshooting Codes” Sounds very likely it is your cluster at fault, but best to get it plugged into a proper computer if you can (Ideally FORScan)
