Having fun with model railways for a beginner returning to the hobby. On this channel I will be sharing the techniques and items I use on my model railway. Not everything will always work out right - but then I'm just Messing about with Models.
Along the way, I'll be building kits, painting models as well as having fun running trains. I'll be trying new things for the first time, so you can see the mistakes I make as well as the things that work well.
Loco works great on program track,but once i put it back on layout sounds work but it will not move ? Any suggestions out there? Totally frustrating. Thanks in advance.
Hi John, do you know if the NCE Powercab is capable of say creating a series of functions to play out in a sequence such as a train in a station opening the passenger doors, getting the whistle from platform staff through to the guards bell or buzzer to move the train and then get an on board announcement such as where the train is going to.
Just looking around net for solutions: my dynamis has suddenly stopped working ,basestation wont recognize the handset and switch on the power.. ive tried new handset, even borrowed another bastation. Now heres the thing- i tested it elsewhere in model shop and another household and it switches on.. Why does it not work in my household.? Nothing has changed.. ever come across this? Im absolutely flabahgasted..
I started panicking when I thought it took a UK power supply then I was looking all over over Amazon for one of those But then I realized, and looked back on Amazon and saw it’s just a standard United States thank goodness
Looks nice. It's just a shame that it is almost impossible to buy in the Netherlands. It still wants to be at model railway fairs. But the price is higher than for a ready-made model
kadees work very well when set up correctly with some exceptions. On short wheelbase UK stock, the kadee magnet is too long and it is almost impossible to stop a train anywhere near the magnet without it activating a coupling and disconnecting. Smaller/shorter magnets are requred (like the little discs mentioned above) . They also do not like the UK small radius curves (try longer versions) and do not couple well on a curve. A big advantage is to uncouple, then gently back onto the waggon and push it to the desired position on a siding, (that is, if contacted while still on the magnet they do not couple up but lock open).
Excellent alot better than silent running, Thankyou for your tips on NCE controller I'm building a TMD layout no rolling stock, But the sound of multiple diesels on shed is rather nice.
I have a real problem with my power cab it reads con where loc should be when I select loc number 3 and nothing happens but if I select loc with long number it works any idea hoping you can help Paul
I think I have a problem with my nce hand set when I got a new loco put it on the track and went through the normal program and it just read CON???? and no go is there some thing wrong with my hand set
One of the hardest parts I have found with Parkside is working out how the sides and end meet with the floor. You just skimmed though this so not very useful. You also put the stripe at the non-opening door end on one side, which would suggest an attempt to rush through the build.
Like this layout, run round loop, outside station platform makes for an interesting track plan..well done, going to do this in N, in a couple of box-files..
Hi with regard to you NCE DCC can controller am I correct in thinking this came with an American voltage power supply, or is it a multi voltage power supply. Thanks
I have an NCE Powercab and a Peco turntable fitted with a Locomotech motor kit that is connected to an ESU decoder. It operates almost perfectly. I would love to program CV 4=0 in order to stop the turntable immediately the rails align BUT the decoder continues for a second or two (just like it would do for any locomotive). This is fine for locomotive braking purposes but NOT for operating a turntable. The NCE Powercab simply does not allow for changing CV values for accessory decoders but only locomotives physically sitting on the rails. So I'm at a bit of a loss with accessory programming.
if it's realism, slow running and cheap DCC you're after, you have to look at the Hornby HM7000 app that controls the loco directly using a tablet or phone via bluetooth (you can also run it normally on DCC). You're now going to say, so what's the difference to HM7000 and any other DCC system as far as realism and slow running. Well this is the clever bit, as hornby have designed the decoder to run directly from a dc power supply (not PWM), you need to forget the power supply and run the decoder directly off batteries (8.4 to 12.6v), fitted internally in the loco. Most will now say "you can't put 12v batteries in a loco", and i say yes you can and to show just how small you go with 12v batteries i'm converting an 06 hornby shunter atm. The last bit is the price, £60 for a fully programmable sound decoder.......that's cheap.!!!
Having just purchased a NB j36 with exactly the same running issues I tried these CV settings. A vast improvement in slow speed settings and start off under load. Many thanks 👍
I'm looking at getting into the hobby and DCC it what I want with all the sounds and extra features. Although I'll probably be using Hornby's new HM7000 system on my phone, I'll be getting an Elite controller as my grandchildren will be playing with it too. With two simple knobs to control speed etc we can both control a train each at the same time.
Airgun pellets make good weights (you can crush them with pliers to pack more in), Your comment about 'play value' hit a chord, since retiring I have been making up toys to give away and decent toys (as opposed to 'collectables' and 'merchandising') are damned hard to find. I watched this as I'm building a 1:72nd 'space port' and thought the tank could be useful, looks like there are a lot of 'greeblies' in there as well.
Hi John, I've used your video many times to successfully reset various loco's, but I need some help. Got a new Graham Farish N gauge 2 car DMU with Zimo DCC and sound, interior lights work, sound works but no movement, retailer says do a decoder reset CV8-8. I've tried this several times, but each time after entering 8, screen says "can not read CV". Am I doing something wrong or do you think loco and decoder faulty, now getting a bit desperate. Cheers Dave
I took have since started using kadees, I've found cutting away the sleepers and packing up with 2mm card brings the height of the magnet just right. Of course because our manufacturers couldn't organise a piss up in a brewery the nem standards seem to be used as guide lines only!!! So adjustments of the tails are needed. I've also found kinematic couplings to be troublesome due to " droop" and excessive side play so to get reliable uncoupling i remove the kenematic coupling assembly and glue a short piece of plasticard to the bogie and the glue a nem pocket to this. Goes around radius two curves and negotiates peco stream line ( medium rad) points without problems.
I'd strongly recommend that you put your script/flipchart board/bullet points above, or next to the camera, as you look like you are reading Braille. Good concise presentation though.
These tutorials are great - just getting started - and these help w/ the basic knowledge I don't know I'm missing - thank you for keeping it clean and simple - so much of the programming seems.....bewildering.....LOL Nice to see this laid out simply
I'm in the process of building my first proper layout in my shed and all my points are finescale electrofrog - I have been concerned by the huge amount of wiring that it appears to need, but you have given me a lot of hope with this video.
I hope you read this as I have a really big problem I am trying to run two tracks with my nce power cab its just one dcc line and the inside track will not work if you can help me I would be very grateful Paul
Hi Paul, Have you checked that there is power to the track? A good part of your toolbox should always be a multimeter - anyone will do, they can be bought fairly cheaply on eBay. You can also get "track testers" which are basically a small LED on a board which you place on the track. With your multimeter, check the connectivity, making sure there is power to all the sections of your track that there should be. A single PowerCab should have no problem running a pair of tracks (I assume its a pair of oval circuits?).