Great Job friend! Wow, that big boring bar is a monster, and cuts a fine finish. You managed to get a very rigid set-up which really paid off. Great to see your shop and dig the way you do things. Good fortune for you!
I worked for a company in the early 70's that built the type of beams. We used a shop made jig and wedges and a sledgehammer to bend them and then tack them every 6 inches. They were on a tilt table when final welding with a dual wire sub arc machine using 3/16" wire.
I agree about the ads but I have no control over that. I never used to monetize my videos so there would be no ads. Then RU-vid started putting ads in anyway whether you monetized them or not.
Love your videos ive ran a lucus 5 for 30 yrs, i wish you would so more of the set ups, customers has no idea how long it takes to get something like that ready to start to machining.
Nice to see an old British lathe still doing a good job. I would say the finest lathes in the World are British and American. The Japanese did a few nice ones and the Italians.
While it is in fairly poor condition the video makes it look much worse than it is. After I reviewed the video I went back out and looked at it again because it looked so bad in the video I thought maybe I had missed something. I would estimate that 75% of the original taper is intact and the tools seem to seat properly and work without problem. I've taken some pretty heavy roughing cuts with facemills mounted in the taper and there were no issues. That is why I'm pretty sure this machine had its slideways rebuilt and then had very little use. Most of the alignment checks I did fell within new machine tolerance yet the spindle condition shows this machine has a huge number of hours on it.
That is a good set up on the draw bar . I think i will have to bite the bullet & make a heap of the Bayonet adapters for the NT50 tooling on my mill & keep running it . It's just a bit of a janky method to grab the tools , but works . My one has the electric interlocks & a time delay before it will let you start the spindle . Cheers Ken , Thanks . 👍
For me at least, a power drawbar in a milling machine is just after digital readouts in order of importance. They really do make a difference on repetative operations. Ken
That draw bolt system seems robust but a bit complex. Fine if it’s working as designed. You must have bought an INT40 holder with M16 thread, still got them? I thought about just clamping that HSS chamfer tool bit in for retraction through the hole… Save a second or so but what could possibly go wrong! Hahaaa. That HBM has proven useful.
It has proven very useful. I have a large project underway right now and I would estimate 85% of the non lathe work has been done on this boring mill. The more I use it the more I think I should have got one years ago.
Excellent description of the de-clutching mechanism. What a great system to prevent whoopsies. The whole system is pretty cool really. And those vise jaws are a interesting concept. Stop pin bores by the looks of things. Did you discuss those in a previous video?
The holes in the vice jaws are actually there to allow you to set parts at different angles. They come with a map that shows you where to place the pins for a certain angle. You then set a part on the pins and tighten the vise jaws and the part will be at that angle. You are right though, in this case I was using it for a stop pin. I made a mistake part way through when I resharpened the large drill and didn't put enough relief behind the cutting edge. This caused the drill to rub severely and this caused a huge increase in drill thrust. The boring mill feed was up to the task and it bent the stop pin before I realized the problem.
My boring mill uses a MT 4 spindle I wish it had 40 taper . I have thought about making an adapter from MT4 to 40 taper but never got it done and some people said it would not work. Are you looking for 40 stuff ?
Ive got a MT4 to 30 taper on my smallest HBM, i made it to take BT30 holders because thats what i use on one ofnmy mills. Dont think 40 would work on a MT4 without it being incredibly long
The 40 taper with power drawbar is hard to beat. I pretty much have all the 40 taper tooling I need but I still search on ebay for odds and ends to round out my collection.
@ 33:30 Did you have those previous experiences with boring? Because if you think about it. A 45 degree angle will diffuse the force 50% sideways and 50% into the spindel. Creating more sideload. While at 15degree you only have about 25% of the force as sideload and 75% of it going straight into the spindle. Just a quick thought I had.
Of course it's not large compared to some, but as the title says it is 'my' large lathe. i.e. I own two lathes, this one and my small one. Having said that, when I first got it I did actually have to ride the clutch to dial in work. A previous owner had the front taper roller bearings so tight you could barely turn it by hand. I backed them off a bit and it is much better. Ken
I had thought about whether the tee slots needed to go all the way or only half. In the end I decided to go all the way so I could bolt on a counterweight wherever I needed it if imbalance became a problem. Another reason was so I could alway add a back brace to a slender bar if it needed to be stiffened up. This is just a bar that goes from close to the end of the boring bar and then down to the boring slide at an angle, similar to a gusset. Ken
My understanding is that the majority of PTO accidents involve a bolt or something protruding from the shaft. Keeping everything low profile on rotating parts is a good idea.
Now thats a proper boring slide, i have one similar to that i mount on my facing head for overturning pump flanges and press bearing journals. Not to be a pain in the arse, but you May want to add a counterweight, diametrically opposed to your tool though. Thats ALOT of load on your spindle bearings. Just bolt a 246 block or 2 on the other side. Fantastic work there brother, real good showcase of run what you brung.
Thanks. I have a second piece of plate that is the same as the boring bar holder plate (I got them cut at the same time). I got it so I could make another bar holder. I will probably drill holes in it and use it as a counterweight in the future. Even at 40 rpm the imbalance force did not cause any noticeably vibration so I was comfortable with it. However the force of the imbalance goes up to the square of the speed so I wouldn't be able to go much faster before it would be noticeable. Ken
Thanks. I imagine they still make them but they are generally machine specific. Wotan built one for this HBM but unfortunately it didn't come with one. Ken
Thanks Stovepipe. Rebuilding this HBM took 2 years and was a lot of work. When I got discouraged I would watch some of your videos to remind myself what the prize was at the end of the rebuild. Ken
