Steven and a bunch of his friends living for exploration, adventure, fun and memories, How-to videos and modifying our rigs to get us out there and live the Adventuren life.
It cost me $159 with 4 bottle kit and gun. I had tape and drop cloths. Bought some etching spray from HF. It took 1.25 hours to prep including going to the store to get a wire wheel(they nylon ones took forever). Spraying was around 20 minutes each coat x2. The cheapest I found around Philadelphia was $650 and it would be 2 days in their shop. I love how it came out AND I saved almost $500 bucks. Now all my buddies want me to do theirs.
Nice work. The only thing I would had done differently is I would have covered the bare aluminium of the mounting plates with something that would insulate the wires from ground. I realise that it is paranoid but I figure on the off chance that a positive wire loosens and moves if it touches the mounting plate, it won’t short the battery. I have the same battery myself in a Landcruiser with the same dcdc charger BTW and love it.
@@AdventureN Yes. As in, the BMS should cut power if the current draw or heat goes too high but I hate to rely on it. Certainly in my set up I’ve preceded on the basis that it really is the very last line of defence. I accept that I am probably very cautious. The thing is though, in a 4WD there is plenty of vibration which can loosen bolts and let insulation rub through so I just like as many failsafes as possible. As I said, it is a very neat job.
How do you remove the seat belt trim. I habe everything off but cant work out you you took the plastic trim from the front and rear seat belt assembly.
if it's the area I'm thinking about, it's just clipped in. if you have a trim removal tool you should be able to get behind it and pry it part. As they are held together by trim clips
Excellent! I also set myself up for June to line my entire F-150 although I pushed the start until today. Will be done with the paint project by July 4th
It kind of depends on what texture you desire. The higher the psi you will tend to get finer/flatter texture whereas with the lower range you tend to get a rougher/chunkier texture. Today, I sprayed my vehicle plastic trims at 55 psi (with the raptor shutz gun) and got a decently rough texture which is what I was going for. I plan on doing the same for the entire bed tomorrow, but when I raptor the exterior of my truck I know I’m going to go for 70 psi (depending on what my test sprays give me at that setting that day)
Wash the bed with Dawn let it dry. Wire wheel on a grinder (buy 2), staying away from edges. Sand as you would by your hard line. I apply Primer sealer first.
@@AdventureNyou as well. Good on you for doing it yourself. The factory jobs aren’t even sanded before they do this, and you did a much better prep job than line-X.
A coil conversion can be done, pre rego or post rego. The GVM upgrade with superior has to be done Pre-Rego as it's a SSM (second stage manufacture) The progress was purchase a new vehicle from a stealership, get it sent to superior, they do install and work + paperwork. The vehicle gets sent back to the dealership where you pick it up ready to go
no wind noise at all. I just did the deadening and insultation whilst I was there. I can tell you from experience the insulation does help on those hot summer days
I wish you did a tutorial just for dropping the roof liner lol. Going to install this roof rack soon but dropping the roof liner is by far the hardest part. Even at 0.25 speed I have no idea what's going on. Is there any manual online that I can use for this? I can't find any. Otherwise great video though.
Its pretty simple but fidly Remove all the grab handles and the plastic trims from pillar between the front and rear seats. Trim from the A pillars Remove the roof console etc and then slowly remove / drop the lining down You will have to bend it bit to fully remove it form the cab, I’d suggest removing the front seats to make your life much easier
Nice install mate, does it conform to the new battery regs? I think it needs to be in a sealed box and vented to the outside as it's in a habitatable space.
@@AdventureN custom lithium should have advised you.. renogy has it on there website.. it's todo with caravans and having batteries in habitibal spaces. They need to be in a sealed box which is vented to the outside. So I'm guessing yours would be the same as you're in the drivers seat
Ooooohhh you could bend the liner. But you could leave a crease in the liner if you bend it too much. Unfortunately with these sorts of installs you gotta take the longer route and proper route. As I said might as well sound deaden and insulate the roof whilst it was down. Lets us know how you go if you do end up getting it done without dropping the entire liner
Hey mate, great video! Just wondering if they provide a template for where you drill through the gutter? If not, how do you work out where to drill? Cheers 🍻
Whilst this is a fair comment, its more fun and having that personal satisfaction of doing a DIY project. The ability to put your hands on your hips and amire your handy work is something else in my honest opinion 😃
It cost me $159 with 4 bottle kit and gun. I had tape and drop cloths. Bought some etching spray from HF. It took 1.25 hours to prep including going to the store to get a wire wheel(they nylon ones took forever). Spraying was around 20 minutes each coat x2. The cheapest I found around Philadelphia was $650 and it would be 2 days in their shop. I love how it came out AND I saved almost $500 bucks. Now all my buddies want me to do theirs.
Cheers for this video, been stuck on the rear fox shocks while installing as the metal inner tube that they come with are the wrong diameter to mount… I didn’t realise you were meant to remove that
oooo good question....I really didn't make a mental note of it. Prep certainly took the longest. Spraying the easiest. Id say about 4-5hrs for prep. Then 2hrs for spray. All a gestimation
I have a question for you in the 4x4 sector and I would like to know if you can tell me if it is true that the ironman nitro gas shock absorbers go well with the original series set-up and can they be adapted with the +5? I have a Suzuki jimny 4x4 with m13a 1.3 l petrol engine with standard shock absorbers and calibrations, yesterday afternoon I picked up the new ironman nitro gas shock absorbers and the 4x4 spare parts dealer in Florence told me that these ironman nitro gas shock absorbers are ok for off-road 4x4 with suspension standard or in a second you could put the springs higher and it becomes a +5 high setting is it true? Greetings from Florence Italy!
Hey there, I can't comment on the Ironman suspension as I personally don't have a first hand experience with them. However I have seen a few jimny's over here in Australia with Ironman suspension installed. I'd suggest going to a Jimny owners group on facebook
any aftermarket tyre will make more noies then the factory tyres. These mud tyres I was a bit worried, but honestly, they do humm a bit, but they are actually comparable to the all terrains (mickey thompson atz) I had on my old rig
Great pick up, to be honest and from memory I didn't wire it up as I personally don't listen to the radio and stream all my music / podcasts off my phone.
