Automotive Tech, Passion Turning Wrenches and Cars Thanks for the support and don’t forget to subscribe For tool reviews or products Contact info: Wrenchingmafia@gmail.com
That's why I like my german car, the oil filter is on the top, installed upside down, and when you need to change it, it will drain inside the oil pan...
Or just put a plastic bag over it Can also put the drain pan in a plastic bag then drain the used oil into the empty oil containers and dispose of the bag, filter, gloves and paper towels in one bag and still be able to se that drain pan to ice down a 12 pack
My tundra has the filter mounted vertically on top of the engine with a catch basin around it and a small hose to route the dripping oul Toyota. Always steps ahead of the competition
Sheeeit that's messy. Just drain the pan then start your car till you see your pressure Guage drop to no pressure then immediately shut it down. Waaala. Filter empty.
Hello! please tell me what I can do, the navigation shows me the wrong location and I can't connect to the internet, the car is an xc 90 2016. Thank you!🤗
It can totally do this! My comment above about it happening to myself. But also stuck open injectors will eat holes in a piston pretty quickly. Especially with high pressure fuels. But enough carbon buildup can ignites as most of it is oil and fuel and will have a long slow hot burn. That alone is hot enough. Add in with combustion revolutions happening those valves are moving fast and slamming shut fast, making the likely hood of a weak spot more prone to failure.
@@vincentthomas1367 it happens on old old cars with minimal maintenance to keep it “road worthy”. But also high performance builds, and anything with direct injection or diesels (I mean most of either type are shooting the fuel out at 1,500psi-5,000psi. So start to lean it out a lot or super heat it and it’s a cutting torch for sure!! But they usually kill the pistons unless a piston is made of a better material and the valve over heats first). But too much timing and lean conditions are the most likely culprit. I mean at least from my personal experiences in the industry.
Be t valve, bad valve seat, bad valve guide. I've seen a bad valve guide cause the valve not to close and from history of it looked like oil and carbon build up was also burning, but instead of the burn energy going towards the piston, it was burning out the valve. Very common with the old 80's Ford Escort #4 cylinder. Farthest from cooling. A over sized valve guide corrects the issues. Maybe not in this case, but when I was with Ford back then we had tons of these as the motors started hitting 150,000 miles or more. Mine did it at 220,000 miles that we picked up for $25. But we knew that was what was wrong, that's why we grabbed it. I made the absolute best beast of a car audio vehicle and I would do it again if I could find a decent one
