On this channel we learn together to fix, fabricate and create all manner of things. From cars, tractors, machines, tools, custom fabrication, backyard engineering and maybe some cute cat vids.
Super helpful. I took apart my column a while ago, and when I put the bearing in I put it in wrong and shattered it. Gonna use this video to fix it proper. Thank you much!
@MagaRickn Who knew there were so many variables to oil pans! I learned some lessons here too. Hope the videos help you on your build, and thanks for watching!
Thank you for your video! I'm 73 and building my 427 for the last time, I hope. ;) My Son has convinced me to go with a roller kit, instead of what came on this 1969 model 427. Hope I can afford it, cause it looks 'spensive!! ;) Good explanation. Helps me understand. I've built engines, just nothing with this type of roller kit. :)
@MagaRickn There seems to be a lifter failure epidemic going on right now, especially with flat-tappet lifters so I would definitely go roller if you can. Even those are a gamble so make sure to test them all once you get them.
@DemondBrown You mean the threaded main shaft? I don't know, I never replaced that shaft on mine. Maybe someone else can leave a comment if anyone knows that part number.
I was confused by the older gentleman's comment about the dual fuel tanks. The smaller rear tank was for gasoline and the larger front tank was kerosene. The engine was started on gasoline then switched over to kerosene once the engine warmed up. Before shutting down the engine it was switched back to gasolene to flush the kerosene out of the fuel bulb so next time you started it had gas in the fuel bulb and carburetor.
@tomhill4765 Yep you're exactly right. The small tank was for gasoline, just for starting. The large tank was originally used for tractor fuel oil (or kerosene). But at some point in history his dad stopped using tractor fuel altogether and both tanks would have contained gasoline. Good catch! Thanks for watching.
there's a another trick 2 that also U cut the gas off and some out of the carb then see if it will start U might have dry off the sparkplugs 1ST 😊😊 OMG 7.1O 2O24
Thank you very much for this well explained, step-by-step safety tutorial. It helped tremendously!! Again thanks for the upload. This video is underrated.
445 hp is not good for a 7.4 L that has been upped to a 468 7.6L engine and a 225 cam is getting maxed to what a stock converter can handle that’s a hole lot of lift too not good You can make the same hp with a vortec 350 L31 the heads on the later 454 are “JUNK” They don’t flow enough cfm Honestly most big blocks are “Junk” in stock forms because of the heads dont flow well This is a 7.6L engine this engine can be out done by a 5.3 engine with stock 317 heads
@nst9079 I have a 1000hp LS 6.0. Also have an 800hp LS 5.3. Both twin turbos. Have had a lot of other stuff too. I've stated who knows how many times here that I wanted a mild, durable, big block truck motor built for longevity. I built it exactly the way I wanted it. If I'd wanted a 1400hp big block with $4k heads, twin turbos and methanol injection I would have built that. In fact I still might. I have another gen VI 454 sitting in my shop. Thanks for the comments... keep em coming!
@ms_m3170 There is a little 2-pronged contact beneath the big plastic turn signal assembly. I show it briefly in the video and I believe that is for the buzzer. Mine however does not work either and I'm not sure where the actual buzzer is under the dash. Hopefully someone else will chime in with better advice. Good luck!
@markmartinez2007 There is a bearing you can replace on the shaft, out in the engine bay where the shaft comes through the firewall. I show it briefly in another video here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Dq3QBHuL-NQ.htmlsi=nhGGCLPyrNabsxix
You should have a metal lock plate that goes under that plastic cover and is held on by the little circle clip. This is what locks the column when you turn the wheel with no key in the ignition
@setheasterling9477 Thats correct. You can see that plate coming out in the beginning of the video. I may not have shown it at the end, but that definitely went back in, and as you mentioned the circle clip holds it in place. Thanks!
@setheasterling9477 Awesome, hope its helpful for you. I had trouble finding a good comprehensive rebuild video so did my best to make one for everyone out there.
I used a long piece of all thread and attached a big washer between 2 nuts. I used that to scrape all the dirt out of the axle housing and then used a shop vac with some old attachments to further clean it up and it worked well.
Someone try stealing my 87 Chevy Caprice n broke the left side of my steering column n I can’t find one ….do you what other column fits my 87 caprice? Thanks in advance
@javierochoa432 I don't know what columns would be an exact fit but I believe GM used the same columns in many cars and trucks during that era. I think you could get the parts to fix yours from pretty much any 80s GM car or truck.
i noticed the gen 6 balancer are you using the serpentine that came with it or using gen 4 pulley's? any issues with gen 4 stuff like bottom pulley not fitting or mis alignment?
@mikeuva2273 I'm using all the stock brackets and accessories that came with the gen 6 motor. I'm sure the gen 4 stuff could all be made to fit as well. I haven't tried that so I couldn't speak to gen 4 stuff.
