Awesome work ! Where did you buy that saw ? My Grandfather worked as a lumberjack after the 2nd world war. When i was a young boy, i saw a saw like this in his garage. Keep it going 👍 Greetings from Austria
Not a fair test on the first log, the centre of gravity was too close to the end of the sawhorse for the crosscut so it kept jumping about. If it was balanced firmer the crosscut won’t have been faster….oh wait!😅
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. In your opinion, thinking along the lines of your video about “topping saws or shortened older felling saws for use as a one man felling saw” how short is useless? A 36” was mentioned but you later said it was 42”, would a 36 or a 33 be fruitful? I know you said on your blog website that for a one man it could be as short as the diameter of the log, plus a little room for your hand, but would you ever mess around with 36? 24!!!?I.e. if you had a lot of damaged older saws to cut SOMEWHERE, and you desired to maximize the useable pieces, what is the smallest crosscut saw (same PNW/INW western lance teeth/perforated lance and woods and all that). If you ever see this thanks for your time you’re like our buckin billy ray who I say is a Canadian national treasure
Can you free hand a 48” felling saw for a felling cut? or I guess it would depend on the saw, one of the unnamed felling saws I want to cut is probably way more noodly than a royal chinook and I guess that would determine the spot to cut. If it’s deflecting down dramatically with its own weight I guess it would be a birch to start and work horizontal/felling cuts. But good to know you would not bother with shorter than 36”. I was wondering if something like that would be useful for starting the kerf on bigger trees if the longer and well tapered felling saw was noodly until it got deeper in the wood, but I guess your technique and experience would start to be a factor more than a generalized rule on lengths, also the specific saw. I guess my problem is I have a really noodly felling saw (extremely well tapered) and a stiff one (barely tapered at all), I want the ideal one man felling saw. I imagine cutting the stiff one at 37.5” and maybe the noodle one around 42, as that was the longest I’ve found mentioned anywhere or in any videos of yours that is manageable being used freehand. That way I could utilize the taper in the bigger wood but have a stiffer more functional saw for 98% of the time. But maybe I should cut the stiffer one longer and the noodly one shorter, hate to waste maximizing the tapered section of the noodle saw or the maximum stiffness of the poorly tapered saw for horizontal cuts. Side question, I noticed in an old picture of a high climber with his topping saw, (a) the handle is the same as your preferred, with the mount on the top vs the side, a sells style and one of the atkins. Is this just random or is there some reasoning/benefit. B) the guys handle was mounted at the narrower end, vs at the longer end, where it was cut, which gives it a really odd look, like the opposite of a classic handsaw. That picture is the only time I’ve seen that, and I was wondering, is he trying to maximize the crescent taper in the cut saw, putting the handle where the metals actually thickest, even though it’s only 2” wide there, and having the best tapered middle section for the majority of the cutting, even though that’s like 4” wide there? I ask because I haven’t seen it anywhere else and I figure you could either confirm or add some useful information. Would like to make an ideal one man felling saw
i'm a retired logger that has been doing volunteer trail work for the forest service for the last 4 years. for my bucking i've used a chainsaw outside our two wilderness areas and silky saws where needed. i recently observed a contracted trail crew working a trail with a Dolly Chapman sharpened saw WOW! hooked immediately i rescued 3 saws badly rusted leaning on a structure on forest service property. thanks to your videos I'm currently working on a 5' bucking saw that i will put to use when finished. they had properly stored but dull one man saws that I've touched up and although very few noodles they cut quite well. thank you for all your information
Most all brands made good quality saws as well as less expensive lower quality saws. Stay with vintage saws rather then the lower quality ones made today. For a one man saw, a lance tooth is normally better then a perforated lance tooth saw. Perforated lance tooth saws are thinner and more flexible and don't work as well when falling. You can get a good idea of the quality by studying old saw catalogs available online.
Impressive project, old school job with the log timbers. I cannot say that I miss using a slick and adze to level the tops of stringers for installing decking!
Interesting. An important note: on the USFS where I work, to use a crosscut, one has to be certified, a day course, that has to be repeated every 2 years, in addition to a current CPR and first aid cert. None of that is needed for a silky
I went to 10 home and outdoor stores from big box stores to mom and pop stores, None of them carry these crosscut saws. Luckily My wifes grandfather use to own 200 acres in Penn and he had 3 of them. I bought all 3 off of him, I couldn't believe that stores don't carry these and manufacturers don't make them anymore, I guess the days of hard work are truly gone 😞
Hi Jim, I'm curious...how would one do an emergency brake going downhill? Say you're cruising at 35mph and a deer runs out in front of you. Would you use the foot brake or the hand brake? (I know virtually nothing about Model T's)
The hand brake would be the best choice for an emergency stop. However in either case you have to drive the Model T as if it has almost no brakes. With only one brake drum in the transmission and only rear wheel brakes it is nothing like modern cars.
@@jimthode Thank you, Jim! The reason I'm asking is because I'm a historical fiction writer with my story taking place in 1917. My next question is a bit more complicated...at least it is for me! I hope you can answer it. In my story, I need the Model T to fail going down a hill. Someone has sabotaged the vehicle. Is there something 'easy' that the saboteur could do to it, to make the driver lose control? Any help or guidance you can give would be appreciated. I'm running into a brick wall with this one. Thank you!
@@user-jc3sz1cj8j Since the main pedal braking system and the emergency/parking lever brake are separate systems and use different brake drums I do not see where a single action could disable both systems. Either one or both together are no way as good as modern brakes but it would not be possible to disable both with one change. Maybe it the main pedal brake was completely worn out and they were using the emergency brake only, then simply removing a single little pin on the control rod would disable the parking brake.
A Silky KATANABOY is fine for smaller logs but they cost many times more then a vintage crosscut and don't work at all on larger logs like 3 to 4 Ft diameter.
He already disproved that in another video I use silly’s all the time as a climber but I would rather try to cut a 2’+ log with my forehead than a silky, that’s why I’m here watching all his stuff. Great resource I wonder if he knows the guy on the selway river
Noodles are nice but they do not really indicate if a saw if cuttings efficiently as possible. A better indication is how much the saw advances on each stroke or just measuring the thickness of cuttings. Thin cuttings will make noodles and thicker cuttings will break up and not make noodles. Also with dryer wood the cuttings will break up and not make noodles.
